[Travel] Food in New York, October 2014

What does a bon vivant do when she ends up in New York on her own? Well, if she's like me, she plans her eating and drinking and is 100% willing to put in the effort to make sure she gets the job done. Dublin has absorbed so many influences from cities like New York and London recently that you're left wondering what's still left or undiscovered. While New York has a scale and energy that's all its own, by the time I left I was happily convinced that Dublin is currently up there with the best that NY could do. 

I had a short list of things I absolutely had to accomplish on this trip, which included shopping in Century 21, cocktails at the Dead Rabbit and a trip to one of David Chang's Momofuku venues. I got myself down to Century 21 shortly after it opened at 8am and I spent the next few hours happily browsing rails and digging through shoes. But eventually, my stomach started calling so I hailed a cab to head uptown to Momofuku Ssäm Bar 

Momofuku Ssäm Bar, 207 2nd Avenue, New York 10003

Momofuku Ssäm Bar is reservationless, except for certain dishes, and I wanted to get there early to be sure of a seat. In the end, the restaurant turned out to be mainly empty and I parked myself at a counter seat. I ordered the famous spicy pork sausage and rice cakes dish ($19), with a plate of fried duck dumplings to start ($12). The dumplings were indeed crispy, but lacked any significant flavour, despite a little broth with pickled cauliflower and some sriracha mayo. 

The signature spicy pork sausage and rice cake looked like a bowl of heavenly spiciness when it was delivered to my counter space. Don't be fooled by the words "rice cakes" as what you get here are dense, gnocchi-like pillows of rice that have soaked up the oily juices. Once I got to eating, I could pick up some Sichuan pepper flavours, but they were low key and ultimately not spicy. At this stage, I was questioning my palette, wondering if I had picked up a cold or flu that was numbing my taste buds. After all, this dish was oily and red with bean paste, all things that usually bode well. A quick sip of my wine reassured me that I was tasting just fine. Since eating there, I've found numerous versions of this recipe on the internet, and it really does sound better than the version I tasted. I think I'll be trying it out at home to see if it redeems itself.

Momofuku is famous for their addictive Milkbar desserts, so I rolled the dice one last time with the Thai tea pie served with saliva-inducing tamarind. I simply loved this strangely sweet and tangy dessert with its delicious crumb and vibrant parfait-like layers.

Fried duck dumplings at Momofuku Ssäm

Spicy pork sausage and rice cakes at Momofuku Ssaäm

Thai tea pie with tamarind and almond at Momofuku Ssäm

Empellón Taqueria, 230 W 4th Street, New York 10014
Empellón Al Pastor, 132 St Mark's Place, New York NY 10009

Empellón was another to do item on my checklist. I've been following this creative Mexican group of venues from ex-pastry chef Alex Stupak ever since I came across their blog posts. I had made a reservation for one (not lonesome at all, let me reassure you) and was supping an excellent margarita when I was personally welcomed by both the hostess and manager. Turns out they had seen my tweets and wanted to make sure that I enjoyed myself. I was genuinely gobsmacked by their warm welcome and the fact that they cared about a single, overseas visitor.

Empellón Taqueria is a sit-down restaurant in the West Village and was nicely buzzing on my visit. Guacamole and chips came with two punchy salsas, one a nutty, fiery arbol and the other a smooth smoked cashew ($12). Let's just say that a mental note has been made to replicate these at home. A dish of octopus, parsnip and pumpkin seeds coated in a smoky, sweet and spicysalsa papanteca ($16, complimentary from the house) was utterly moreish and was followed by two tacos of succulent pork shoulder and roast, caramelised pineapple ($12). 

In contrast to the Taqueria, Empellón Al Pastor is a less-formal bar-restaurant on the East Village. You order from a short taco menu at either the bar or taco counter, grab a number and wait for delivery at your table. All tacos are just $4 and once again I had the delicious pork shoulder and pineapple taco, along with a beef and caramelised onion taco. Add in another great margarita with smoked salt ($12) and I was completely rocking a party of one. 

Beef taco at Empellon Al Pastor

Pork shoulder with pineapple at Empellon Al Pastor

Eataly, 200 5th Avenue, New York 10010
Bouchon Bakery, 1 Rockefeller Plaza, New York 10016

The next day, I found myself wandering around 5th Avenue and at the recommendation of several Twitter friends, I called into Eataly. I had heard so much about this Italian food emporium and was curious to see for myself. Intially, I wondered what all the fuss was about, but as I wandered deeper and deeper into the halls, it opened up like an Aladdin's cave of treasures. When I found myself in deep contemplation of a jar of pistachio spread, I knew it was time to stop.

Well, as you can predict, it was time for another pitstop, and I pulled up a seat at the marble counter of La Piazza.  Fresh bocconcini (mini mozzarella balls) topped with sautéed spinach and chiles ($14) was followed by nutty, deeply intense arancini flavoured with wood mushroom and Fontina fondue ($9).  My only regret is not getting the lift to the top floor roof bar. 

By accident, I came across an outlet of the famous Bouchon Bakery (from chef Thomas Keller) at Rockefeller Plaza. As I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth, in I went for one of their oversized macaron. I ate the delicious creation outside in the fresh cold air, watched closely by many of the little birds that take advantage of the crumbs.

Bocconcini with spinach at Eataly

Arancini at Eatalyv

Macaron at Bouchon

A little table guest at Bouchon

fsOriental Garden, 14 Elizabeth Street, New York, 10013

My hotel for this trip was located in Chinatown, and I had repeatedly promised myself a Chinatown dinner. However, instead of dinner, we ended up having dim sum for breakfast at the Oriental Garden, just off Canal Street. Inside, groups of Chinese women were laughing through breakfast, and we started with a selection of ready-prepared dim sum from bamboo steamers on a table side trolley. Shark fin dumplings and classic pork & shrimp dumplings were light, incredibly fresh and gently aromatic. These were followed by a selection of fried plates, cooked to order from the kitchen. All dim sum range between $3 and $5, meaning that our breakfast just creeped over the $20 mark.

Shark fin dumplings at Oriental Garden 

Pork and seafood pancakes at Oriental Garden

I hope my little eating adventure around New York will give you ideas for your next trip. And in case you're wondering what did I drink while in the Big Apple, my next post will cover my cocktail tour!

[Travel] Cocktails in Seattle

If you look for recommendations for cocktails in Seattle, the answer often comes in the form of "wherever Murray Stenson is currently working. He was between jobs on my recent short trip to Seattle, leaving me without the chance to enjoy his work. Stenson had spent many years behind the bar at the Zig Zag Cafe, making it my first choice for a Friday cocktail in Seattle.

Zig Zag is nestled off a little plaza, just below Pike Place Market. It's extremely popular, meaning that I had to wait outside the velvet rope for a while before a seat opened up at the bar. Inside, it's cosily candle-lit and very comfortable. Friday Happy Hour was still in swing so I order a mixed bowl of salty, oily olives and settled in. A Spanish Monk (gin, chartreuse and egg white) is deftly shaken, while my later request for a local cocktail results in the creation of a smooth martini featuring the wonderful Portland-made Aviation Gin. 

Throughout my time perched at the counter, I watch the stylishly-groomed and very dapper bartender Erik Hakkinen create a range of drinks, chatting easily with customers and taking requests for special drinks. It's clear that Zig Zag is a special spot indeed, but soon it's regretfully time to depart and head back up the steep hills to my hotel and a beckoning bed.

The iconic Seattle Space Needle

Space Needle selfie

On Saturday I find myself with sore feet and tired legs following a day spent around Pike Place Market, the heights of the Space Needle and a rattly trip on the iconic Monorail. This time my choice of drinking location takes me back to Pike Place Market and the relatively newly opened Radiator Whiskey. It's located in a bright first floor space with an open kitchen and serves a wide selection of on-tap drinks and barrel-aged spirits. 

Once again, it's Happy Hour with a delicious bourbon margarita on offer ($8). I also sample a house special cocktail made with aged 2bar moonshine, dry vermouth, gomme and Xocolatl mole bitters. As it's generally not advisable to neck multiple cocktails without food, I order a salad of roasted beets with jicama, lime, coriander, smoked jalapeño cream and jalapeño chicharones ($10). It's absolutely delicious with a wonderful balance of sweet and earthy flavours with a spicy kick from the crackling. 

Barrel aged spirits on tap at Radiator Whiskey

Bourbon margarita at Radiator Whiskey

Bohr cocktail at Radiator Whiskey

Roasted beet salad

At this stage, the night is still young, so I decide to hop in a taxi and head to Capitol Hill cocktail bar, Canon. This bar is an incredible shrine to all things cocktail and was in the 2012 shortlist for the "World's Best New Cocktail Bar"at the prestigious Tales of the Cocktail event (it ultimately lost to London's Zetter Bar). If you have a burning wad of cash in your pocket, you can order a Vintage Brandy Crusta made with J.G. Monnet 1875 cognac, Cointreau 1930, Maraschino 1960, fresh lemon and Paychaud's bitter. The cost? A mere $1,100.

The interior of the bar is all pressed tin, vintage cocktail paraphernalia and floor-to-ceiling shelving filled deep with an amazing collection of spirits, including an extensive collection of whiskies. Personally, I was intrigued by the tequila and mezcal selection (which can be hard to find in Ireland), but more about that later. The shuttered windows mean that just the barest amount of daylight filters through, creating the perfect drinking environment.

Canon, Seattle

The stunning interior at Canon

The cocktail menu at Canon was one of the most exciting cocktail lists that I have ever read. I literally wanted to taste everything, not a wise idea given that I had a noon plane to catch the following day. If you want to torture yourself with cocktail porn, then the menu is available online here. I started with a tequila option, the Yakima Cartel made with falernum, grapefruit, cava and garnished with yakima applewood smoked salt (an attractive $11). Just like the Zig Zag on the previous night, my request for a local cocktail involved a local gin, this time Voyager from Pacific Distillery. 

The Yakima Cartel 

My local cocktail made with Voyager gin

Seattle is definitely a city for the cocktail drinker. Whether you prefer to indulge in the classics, or like to seek out the newest and best, there's a barstool waiting for you. When you add in the fact that Oregon and Washington states have a booming craft distillery industry, it's clear that Seattle bartenders have a magnificent range of ingredients to work with. 

Despite my best efforts, I still managed to leave Seattle on my scheduled plane the next morning. But as we lifted away from the runway, I promised to myself to return and take another bite of this apple. 

Zig Zag Cafe, 1501 Western Ave #202, Seattle WA 98101
Tel: +1 (206) 625-1146
URL: zigzagseattle.com

Radiator Whiskey, 94 Pike St Suite 30, Seattle WA 98101
Tel: +1 (206) 467-4268
URL: www.radiatorwhiskey.com
Twitter: @RadiatorWhiskey

Canon, 928 12th Ave, Seattle WA 98122
URL: www.canonseattle.com
Twitter: @CanonSeattle

[Travel] Pike Place Market, Seattle

Lying awake recently in a Seattle hotel bed, I reached for my phone, opened Twitter and typed "#SleeplessInSeattle". Very cheesy I know, but I was excited to be in this famous coastal city, perched atop hills in the northwest of the USA. Bright spring sunshine on Friday evening had dispelled any preconceptions I had around Seattle weather and the lush greenery on my taxi-ride from the airport had definitely brightened my mood.

I wasn't too happy to learn though that Seattle is steeply hilly, just like it's southerly cousin of San Francisco. If I'd known that, I might not have chosen a hotel perched up on the hills. I found myself in a semi-squatting walking gait on more than one occasion in order to counterbalance the sharp pull of gravity. And we're better off not talking about the walk back up the hill. On the plus side, the nighttime views from the bar atop the Renaissance Seattle were rather amazing. 

Saturday morning was bright and fresh, so I struck out for a visit to the famous Pike Place Market. Opened in 1907, this farmers' market is one of the oldest continuously operated markets in the US.  It's a sprawling affair, strung along Pike Place and covering several stories. Walking in under the iconic sign, I am greeted by a cacophony of colour, smells and sounds. 

The iconic sign at the entrance

The Corner Market Building

The first thing I notice are the fishmongers, whose stalls are piled high with crushed ice and a treasure trove of seafood.  Gigantic lobster tails have me dreaming of melted butter, while single serve oyster shots make me think about impromptu picnics along the waterfront. I had been warned to expect the "flying fish" but I am still enthralled by the chanting of the fishmongers, accompanying the flinging of fresh fish from the front to the back of the stall. 

Individual oyster shots at Pike Place Market

Gigantic rock lobster tails at Pike Place Market

The market is packed full of all kinds of stalls, from fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables and street food to collectables and arts & crafts. The market area is even home to about 500 residents, though I imagine they must be haunted by the number of tourists that congregate throng the area.

Multicoloured fingerling potatoes at Pike Place Market

Visit the dentist at Pike Place Market

A colleague had given me several tips for Pike Place Market, so I started to work my way through the list at Beecher's Handmade Cheese. Having pre-loaded with medication to suppress my reaction to wheat, I was ready to experience their "World's Best Mac & Cheese" and their classic grilled cheese sandwich. The mac & cheese was ladled out as I ordered, but the grilled cheese is made fresh to order. I took a seat on a milk churn and watched curds being stirred in the room next door as I waited for my sandwich. 

Mac & cheese, I can take or leave as ultimately, it's just cheesy pasta. However, the grilled cheese sandwich was a thing of oozing, creamy beauty. A combination of Flagship and Just Jack cheeses (the same as in the mac & cheese) was completely melted, flowing out from the grilled bread in soft strings with sweet and nutty flavours. For a grilled cheese fiend like myself, this was manna from heaven.

Seating at Beechers

Beecher's World's Best mac & cheese

Ready to be unwrapped - my grilled cheese sandwich

The oozing cheesiness of Beecher's grilled cheese

Later, I came to Rachel's Ginger Beer flagship store in Pike Place Market. This zingy and flavoursome drink is available in many different varieties including original, strawberry and carrot & beet. As the sun was shining (and it had passed the proverbial yardarm), I went for a Porch Swing cocktail, which was a refreshing mix of ginger beer, gin and Aperol (and just $8). I pulled out my iPad and enjoyed some time sipping my drink and planning my next moves. 

Flavoured ginger beers at Rachel's Ginger Beer

After leaving Rachel's Ginger Beer, I went up one street and down another, eventually finding my way through a mall to Piroshky Piroshky Bakery. This Russian bakery has been open since 1992, feeding the long lines of locals and tourists alike who queue patiently for their turn. A fellow tourist who joined me in the queue struck up a conversation. It turns out that he didn't even know what he was queueing for, but he was working on the principle that the place seemed popular, so therefore it was worth queuing. 

A piroshky is essentially a handheld pie, and the shelves at this little bakery were loaded with a wide variety of sweet and savoury. I was sorely tempted to order several, especially as I watched the workers fold and glaze the pies in preparation for the oven. Miraculously though, some form of restraint kicked in and I ordered a single warm cheddar cheese and garlic roll. One of my guiding principles in life is that the addition of cheese makes anything better. And this roll was a cheese-lovers delight, with ample amounts of cheddar seeded between the pastry folds. My wheat intolerance wasn't going to be thanking me later, but the cheese-loving portion of my brain was already in heaven. 

Piroshky Piroshky Bakery

Delicious selection of sweet and savoury pastries

Pastries ready for the oven at Piroshky Piroshky

Next to Piroshky Piroshky is the original Starbucks shop. They've kept the old signage, but otherwise it is no different  to the many others shops around the world. It is cool though to think that a global chain grew from this wonderful food-loving area, and the queues of tourists outside clearly show the global love for Starbucks.

The original Starbucks on Pike Place

Check back in a few days for my little trip around the cocktail bars of Seattle, plus some Space Needle pictures.

[Review] Thanksgiving Buffet at the Wicked Spoon, Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas

Our recent trip to Las Vegas meant that we would be resident in Sin City over Thanksgiving. Las Vegas is a bubble of suspended reality, but I had no idea what to expect on the biggest American festival day of them all. I have long been intrigued by some of the dishes served on Thanksgiving (sweet potatoes topped with marshmallows anyone??) but really, it was the promise of gluttony and  indulgence which was dragging me in. I was also viewing it as a trial run for Christmas Day. Just like marathon runners, it's important to train regularly. 

Research on the internet suggested that the hotel buffets were the way to go, but to be prepared for long queue times. We were staying at the very new and very sleek Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, and some more reading revealed that their buffet restaurant, The Wicked Spoon, had been amongst the Foursquare Top 10 check-in spots on Thanksgiving 2012. The Bacchanal Buffet over at nearby Caesar's Palace was also getting some serious mentions, but ultimately convenience (and laziness) won out and we headed downstairs to the Wicked Spoon. 

We started to queue at about 2.30pm and moved relatively quickly to the cash registers. The brunch buffet was being served until 3pm, at which point service was to switch to the dinner buffet, along with an increase in prices. However, we got lucky and paid the brunch price, plus an additional $10 per head to secure bottomless Bloody Marys, Mimosas and Champagne. Things slowed down considerably after paying, with the wait to be seated taking approximately 45 minutes. From looking into the dining room, it was clear that there was a policy of regulating the crowd flow, meaning that the dining experience never felt uncomfortable.

Champagne and mimosas for Thanksgiving brunch

When the Wicked Spoon buffet opened, it set a new trend in Las Vegas buffet dining by offering small plates or individual portions at many of their stations. That may not seem overly revolutionary but it has apparently been adopted by many other buffets since. Presentation standards are high with little copper pans being used for cajun shrimp & grits, creamy polenta with pear and walnut or spicy mac and cheese. Fried chicken portions come in miniature deep-fry baskets, while portions of Asian rice are served in iconic cardboard takeout boxes.

The only limit to buffet eating is your own stomach and, of course, the looseness of your waistband. Pretty much every type of cuisine is on offer ranging from seafood and salads, Asian and sushi, traditional carvery meats, fresh cooked omelets to fine patisseries and gelatos. Movement never stops here, with diners roaming the floor seeking their next hit and chefs constantly restocking their stations. It's a surreal sight to see huge buckets of sliced crab legs being loaded onto the buffet, only to be demolished over the course of a few minutes by the waiting diners. 

Mountains of crab legs at the seafood station

Brussels sprouts with almonds and cranberries

Portions of "twisted" fried chicken

We got stuck in, quickly clearing plates of "healthier" seafood and salad options. This endowed us with a sense of virtue before approaching the carvery counter with righteous justification. I loaded up a plate with (from top left, clockwise) bone marrow, roast lamb, roast turkey, brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes and finally, sausage stuffing. As an Irish person, this plate made me feel like I was cheating on Christmas Day and every plate ever cooked by my mother and aunts.

Given that the buffet is essentially a high volume, mass production venue, the quality of each and every item was outstanding. The roast lamb was brightly pink with a crispy, salty outer skin. The Brussels sprouts sautéed with almonds and cranberries still had some bite, while sweet potatoes were smooth and creamy.  I've definitely taken some inspiration from this plate for Christmas dinner.

My traditional Thanksgiving plate

Next up was a mishmash of items from the Asian counter - BBQ Korean rosary cut ribs, five spice pork belly with hoisin sauce, a beef stir fry loaded with green beans and asparagus, with a crisp and fresh green papaya salad for balance. At this point, our endurance was beginning to suffer and we took a breather. We had selected the bottomless mimosa option, and our server was unrelenting, keeping our table constantly stocked with one glass of champagne and mimosa each. 

My Asian Thanksgiving plate

Finally, I visited the counter that I had been studiously ignoring since we started this gluttonous trip - the dessert counter. All kinds of enticing sweet treats were on offer, with a gelato counter making up one side. I confined myself to the wheat-free desserts, which limited me somewhat, but not too badly. An orange macaron (which I think was pumpkin) was gooey crunchy, and raspberry topped pannacotta was both creamy and sharp. A pistachio chocolate mousse cake was the only weak note, but  scoops of peanut butter ice-cream and mango sorbet quickly put things right. 

A selection of patisserie

By the time we decided to cash out, one side of our table was covered in sticky plates and empty champagne flutes. The cheese and cold meats counter sat across from us, taunting me with its ripe brie and creamy goats cheese. But I was defeated, worn down by a magnificent and varied feast. There were still so many dishes which I wished to sample, but my stomach had waved the white flag.

What really stood out was the high quality and standards of cooking. Producing fresh food on this volume must involve some keen logistics and management, and I'm sure that the kitchens are non-stop bustle. However, the dining room is relaxed and calm, making this feel more like a high-end restaurant than a Las Vegas buffet. Roll on Christmas.

The Wicked Spoon Buffet, Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, 3708 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
URL: Link
Twitter: @Cosmopolitan_LV

[Review] Luke's Lobster Roll, Washington DC

I've been in Washington DC before, but never on a sunny Autumn day. Right now, the leaves on the trees are the most vibrant shades of russet and gold and are all the more stunning against the backdrop of a bright blue sky. Driving along the Baltimore Washington Parkway is a visual delight with constant immersion in rich autumnal colours. It's a treat for the soul.

The good thing about visiting Washington DC on a Saturday is the quietness. It makes it pretty easy to get around and see the sights. I started with the Library of Congress, located in the 1897 Jefferson Building, a glorious Beaux Arts building right across from the Capitol. I wasn't expecting to find such elaborate architecture and design in an American building of this era. It is a wonderful tribute to everything book-related and our guide, Tom, was simply amazing. 

The US Capitol in the sunshine

Inside the Library of Congress

The Sciences on the vaulted ceiling at Library of Congress

Later I headed to Luke's Lobster, located on E Street NW in the Penn Quarter. Nothing really symbolises North East America food better than the lobster roll and I really wanted to try one. The lobster roll is deceptively simple in nature, consisting of some form of a bun or roll, packed with lumps of lobster meat. I was failing to see how this simple sounding construction could inspire such passion and devotion from aficionados. After all, lobster is the finest of sea food with it's sweet, succulent flesh.

Luke's Lobster

The restaurant itself is relatively small with high stools and a beachshack vibe. Luke's serve their lobster rolls Maine style. This means that the New England-style bun is toasted and buttered while the meat is cold and mixed with the slightest touch of mayonnaise, lemon juice and some secret spices. For $20, the lobster roll comes with chips (aka crisps), a pickle and a beer. At first glance, the bread roll itself appears quite small, but it is packed with large, coral-pink lumps of knuckle and claw meat. And it tastes so good. The bread is buttery sweet, brioche-soft with a slight sugary crunch, while the lobster is a literal gulp of the ocean. I chow it down, savouring every bite, but before too long I'm looking at an empty basket, mournfully dressed with lobster juices and seasoning.

The lobster roll: Before and after

After my Luke's Lobster experience, I fully get the lobster roll love affair. Somehow, this simple dish pays full respect to this magnificent crustacean. Hopefully, the next time I enjoy a lobster roll, I'll be sitting on a beachfront with the wind in my hair and sea-salt on my lips.

Luke's Lobster, 624 E Street NW, Washington DC 20004, United States
Tel: +1 (202) 347 3355
URL: www.lukeslobster.com
Twitter: @LukesLobsterDC