[Review] Tani Sushi, Terenure Road North, Dublin 6W




Watching a skilled sushi chef at work is a real pleasure. The careful cutting of fish into precise sashimi slices, the ritual assembly of maki and nigiri along with the smooth practised motion of dipping the knife into water before letting the drops run down the blade. It's a peaceful, nearly spiritual experience. Dublin has several really good sushi restaurants, but you can always do with another venue, particularly when it is close to home and not in the heart of town.

Tani Sushi is a newly-opened Japanese restaurant in the heart of Terenure Village. It used to be occupied by Spoon Cafe, but has now been stripped out and redone with Japanese touches. The interior is simple with light wooden floors and tables, with Japanese wall hangings and a little bamboo screen. It's possibly too sparse as the room feels slightly bleak. Each table is simply set with glazed dipping bowls (mine was a vibrant azure blue), chopsticks and adorable egg-shaped toothpick holders that rock back and forth at the slightest touch. 

The menu lists starters, sushi in many varieties, along with cooked dishes such as cha han and teppan noodles. Everything is very keenly priced and I find myself dithering over different dishes, which is a good sign. We are visiting at Saturday lunchtime, but the restaurant is strangely empty with only a handful of people dining. Perhaps it was due to the bank holiday weekend exodus from Dublin. 

The cutest toothpick holder

The interior at Tani Sushi

My dengaku starter consisted of pieces of silky tofu, aubergine and mushroom, all coated in the lightest, flakiest batter and topped with a delicious homemade miso glaze. Seaweed salad was bright, nearly luminescent, green, with a slightly gelatinous texture, coated in a sesame dressing and served with mixed leaves. 

Dengaku (Miso glazed tofu, aubergine & mushroom)

Seaweed salad

His tuna set plate consisted of nigiri, thick sashimi slices, maki and fat ura maki rolls. With sushi, the devil is always in the details, and I loved the little leaf-shaped lump of wasabi paste, complete with vein-pattern. I am a fan of the American approach to sushi rolls and I had to order the Kani roll, a mix of soft shell crab, avocado, roe and crab meat. It came rolled extra wide, with crab legs  protruding from the final piece. If you haven't tried soft shell crabs before now, then you really should. The gentle crispiness is a lovely contrast to the smooth firm rice in sushi.

Tuna plate of sashimi, nigiri, maki and ura maki

The loveliest portion of wasabi ever

Kani roll - soft shell crab, avocado & crab

Overall, we really really liked Tani Sushi. Our server was lovely, even going back to the chef with a question from me about the dengaku. Ultimately, it's all about the fish, and we could not fault the sushi. There are lunch specials, including bento boxes, on offer during the week, but the regular pricing is good value where sushi is concerned.

Tani Sushi's internet presence is non-existent, but they do offer take-out on Just-Eat, and for the first time ever, I find myself tempted by home delivery sushi. Hopefully, the sparse interior will not deter punters, as this is a welcome addition to dining in Dublin 6W.

Tani Sushi, 93 Terenure Road North, Dublin 6W
URL: Tani Sushi on Just Eat

[Review] Electric Fish Bar, South Mall, Cork




I remember visiting ACC Bank on Cork's South Mall as a child, in tow at my mother's side. I was gradually beginning to cotton onto the fact that my mother was some kind of extreme saver (and couponer too, way before it was cool). For my mother, it's a case of neither a borrower nor a lender be, but instead be a saver. She did try to instill this worthy habit in me by signing me up for a Henry Hippo saving account in Ulster Bank which came with a suitably cool money box. It was a decent effort on her part, but you can only go so far with me.

Little did I know then what I know now. Over the space of 20 years,  I would acquire several novelty money boxes, proceed to spend my childhood savings in college and start my career, all while Ireland's banks would crest and crash. ACC has long been gone from their premises on the South Mall, which have been occupied by bar and restaurant Electric for several years.

For my first blog post about Electric, we dined outside on the upstairs terrace. That terrace is now closed up and remodeled into the beautiful Fish Bar. This dining room is a sharp, slick affair. Crisp blue glassware and stunningly white wall tiles cause the room to sing with light, but all attention is drawn to the open kitchen area.  It's all thoroughly modern Millie, but still reminds me of a long ago holiday eating tapas in ancient San Sebastian bars (thankfully sans napkins wadded on the floor).

The open kitchen area in the Fish Bar

Sharp touches - copper napkin rings, bone-handled knives and the iconic menu

We ordered a selection of small plates to start, perfect for sharing amongst friends. Ceviche, or a Peruvian dish of marinated raw fish, was light but substantial, served alongside sweet plantain chips (€8.00).  I would have preferred it to be sharper, but a squeeze of lemon fixed that nicely for me. A half dozen oysters were silky smooth, and while he likes his oysters au natural, I definitely appreciated the sharply sweet mignonette dressing (€10.00). Seared tuna was beautifully cooked, and had us running our fingers over the plate to get every last drop of the wonderful sesame ginger dressing (€9.00).

Our fishy delights were accompanied by two dirty martinis (€8.50). Some cocktail purists pooh-pooh the addition of olive brine to the martini, but I'm big fan of how the oily gin is transformed by the salty brine. It really is one of the best cocktails, and I've always thought that it suits me pretty well. Turns out that it also suits seafood pretty fine too.

Ceviche with cracked pink pepper and plantain crisps

Half dozen fresh oysters

Seared tuna with sesame ginger dressing

We decided to get in the mood for our upcoming Portugese holiday by ordering the whole grilled sea bream, which came with herb pesto and roasted cherry tomatoes (€16.00). Perfectly cooked, the flesh came away from the bones with little persuasion and was sublime when dipped in the cooking juices. I particularly liked the charred lemon, but I would have preferred to see the gills removed from the fish. 

Over the last few years, I've felt that the dining scene in Cork has fallen behind the vitality and pace of Dublin. Yes, there are some really good restaurants in Cork, but it's also felt a little staid at times. The Fish Bar is fresh like a brisk sea breeze, and a celebration of all things fishy.  The construction of the menu means that dishes can be shared easily between groups, or hoarded jealously by the gluttons amongst us. Word of warning, the Fish Bar does not take reservations, so get in early to get your seat.

Electric, 41 South Mall, Cork
Tel: +353 (0)21 4222 990
URL: www.electriccork.com
Twitter: @ElectricCork

[Listing] Ben & Jerrys Core Tour comes to Dublin




Those lovely folk at Ben & Jerry's keep coming up with new flavours. Even more importantly, they like to give away ice-cream samples. Read on for details of the Ben & Jerrys Core Tour, which hits two locations in Dublin this May.

2013 welcomed the launch of two euphoric new Ben & Jerry's Core flavouts, Peanut Butter Me Up and Blondie Brownie. In keeping with Ben & Jerry's ethos of "If it's not fun, why do it?", fans will get the chance to experience the new flavours in the most delicious surroundings as the Core Tour returns to Dublin with two events; the first on May 9th in Dundrum Town Centre between 4pm-8pm and the second on May 11th in Barnardo Square, Dame Street between 2pm-6pm.

Bringing peace, love and ice cream to flavour fans across Dublin, the Core Crusader van will be parked up alongside a brand spanking new Ben & Jerry's Barn area, where fans can enjoy their chosen scoop of either Peanut Butter Me Up, Blondie Brownie, Karamel Sutra or Dough-ble Whammy, while chilling on hay bales, enjoying the sunshine and listening to top tunes from some of Ireland's best up-and-coming bands. And to  remember the core-tastic experience, fans can pose for their own Ben & Jerry's photo, which will be printed to take home as a momento.

The Core flavours combine not one, but two Fairtrade flavours in a tub, with an udderly amazing core sauce running through the centre. Peanut Butter Me Up combines peanut and vanilla flavoured ice creams with chocolately covered peanut buttercups wrapped around a sumptuous raspberry jam core. Blondie Brownie boasts a soft salted caramel core, surrounded by chunks of blondie and chocolate brownie pieces, nestled in vanilla and chocolate ice creams.

It's one free scoop of ice cream per flavour fan, until stocks last, and there are only so many of our lovely fans we can fit into the barn. So, remember to get down there early. Explore the Core Tour at www.facebook.com/BenandJerrysIreland or www.benjerry.ie/flavours/cores or @BenandJerrysIRL.

Terms and conditions apply, got to www.benjerry.ie/flavours/cores for  full details. When you've picked your locations, there's a link through to the full T&Cs.

[Listing] Glenisk Pop-Up Store




Irish firm Glenisk has just opened a pop-up store on Dawson Street in Dublin. Named Glenisk Upfront & Personal, the store will remain open for 10 weeks, demonstrating the versatility of Glenisk organic yogurt, through a series of creative flavour combinations, both sweet and savory. 

Glenisk Upfront & Personal is managed by Christine Jordan, who has spent three months developing recipes for the store. The dishes feature many leading Irish food producers, including Goatsbridge Smoked Trout and Burren Smokehouse Organic Salmon, while also embracing global food themes. In addition to the smoked fish, savoury options include carrot, beetroot & apple salad with orange harissa dressing; Greek salad and Mexican bean & avocado combinations. Each savoury dish is served with rosemary & olive oil crostini, baked especially for Glenisk by the Paris Bakery on Moore Street.

Irish smoked salmon 

Sweet treats include Greek style natural yogurt with dark chocolate, orange, pistachio & honey; Turkish figs in spiced syrup with toasted almonds; fresh fruit, granola & honey; and banana, caramel and milk chocolate. The store will also offer a wide selection of delicious cheesecakes and smoothies, prepared with Glenisk organic yogurt and crème fraiche.

Dark chocolate, orange and honey

Glenisk MD Vincent Cleary comments "Glenisk celebrated 25 years in business last year; our fantastic growth in recent years has been achieved largely through embracing new ideas and developing new products. As we embark on the next 25 years, our Upfront & Personal store hopefully demonstrates our ongoing commitment to innovation. We're delighted to have the opportunity to meet our customers in person and share our ideas; and we look forward to welcoming them into the store to hear their views. We can promise them a brand new approach to enjoying yogurt and the best of Irish ingredients."

The recipes will be updated each day and Glenisk hopes that customers will share their own suggestions for flavour combinations. Savoury yogurt dishes and smoothies are priced at €3.50, while sweet dishes and cheesecakes will cost €3.00. Glenisk's range of organic yogurt, fresh milk, cream cheese and crème fraiche will be available in the store, along with the brand's goats milk and goats yogurt. 

Glenisk Upfront & Personal will also host a selection of foodie events, cookery demonstrations and supper clubs. To find out more information, visit www.glenisk.com, connect at Glenisk's Facebook page, or follow on Twitter @glenisk for daily updates. 

[Review] Kilkieran Cottage, Castletown, Co, Kilkenny




I've been visiting Portlaw in Waterford and the surrounding area for over 13 years now. I thought that I knew the area reasonably well, but this is the Irish countryside where nothing is ever certain. When the name of Kilkieran Cottage popped up on Twitter, I was intrigued. Google Maps showed me that it was located in the middle of the countryside and when I asked Mr. & Mrs. H., they were not familiar with the venue. Asking the same question down in the local pub on Saturday night also drew blanks. Anyway, the night continued on the in the pub with much merriment, which meant that on the following day we were all in the mood for a good hearty Sunday lunch.

The drive from Portlaw through Owning was beautiful, reminding us how stunning the Irish countryside can be when there is even just the tiniest bit of sunshine. The terrible spring weather so far has meant that farmers haven't been able to let their animals out from winter housing. However, on this bright Sunday, we could see cattle grazing in fields. It seemed as if spring was finally here, albeit a few months behind schedule.

Kilkieran Cottage sits perched in the middle of the countryside with a valley opening away below and an old walled cemetery just a field over. From outside,  the restaurant appears small and cute with it's red half-door, but looks can be deceptive and once inside, the dining room open up with high ceilings and a modern interior. It's smart enough for us city slickers, yet still comfortable enough for all the grans. We were seated in the conservatory area where we had panoramic views of the valley sweeping away from us. Over the course of our meal, the view varied from bright sunshine, to sleeting rain and back again, often all within several minutes. Welcome to an Irish spring. 

The half-door entrance to Kilkieran Cottage

Sunday lunch is well priced with two courses for €20, or three for €25, including tea/coffee. My Ardsallagh goats cheese panna cotta shivered most delicately on the plate, but deter me one iota from enjoying it's smooth creaminess, which still retained a nice tang from the goats cheese. Perhaps the beetroot puree could have packed a little more bite to counteract the creaminess, but that's picking at fine points. His (also ordered by Mrs. H.) home-cured salmon with pickled cucumber and wasabi mayonnaise was really exceptional, with sweet and salty flavours from the curing process lingering on the tongue. Mr. H. went for the soup, which was somewhat over-salted, but very flavoursome and solid with vegetables.

Ardsallagh goats cheese panna cotta with dried cherry tomatoes and beetroot puree

Home-cured salmon with pickled cucumber and wasabi mayonnaise

Given that this was a Sunday lunch sitting, the main courses are designed for this audience. Himself and Mr. H. both opted for traditional roast beef, which arrived cut in thick slices, coated with a rich, meaty gravy along with a not-very traditional (if you're Irish) Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. H.'s grilled breast of chicken was served atop some sauteed wild mushrooms and another rich gravy. Being served dreary mixed diced vegetables often causes a little piece of me to die inside, but there was no cause for concern here. Bowls of smooth mashed potatoes and crunchy sugarsnap peas provided the required vegetable accompaniments.

I chose a somewhat non-traditional Sunday lunch dish of pea and leek risotto which was beautifully cooked, retaining a nice crunchy nub in the rice. Fresh peas and crisp leeks added texture to the smooth, creamy rice.

Traditional roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and delicious gravy

Pea and leek risotto

Accompanying vegetables and mashed potato

We declined dessert as we were driving back to Dublin, and didn't want to run the risk of the post-Sunday dinner snooze while on the motorway. As we left, all were in agreement about the quality of the food,  and several mentions were made about returning for an evening meal when we could enjoy a broader range of dishes from the a la carte menus. 

I found out later on Twitter that the head chef at Kilkieran Cottage is Neil McEvoy, a former winner of the Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year award. Neil has previously held the post of Head Chef at Kevin Dundon's Dunbrody House Hotel & Cookery School (as well as stints at L'Ecrivain & Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud). A native of Piltown, he is close to home in Kilkieran Cottage, but his flair and style shines through, even at Sunday lunchtime. It's really is quite something to find such a lovely  venue and quality cooking deep in the countryside.

Ireland of a thousand seasons - wet and sunny all in one day

A picturesque setting, very good food and the most incredibly pleasant young staff combine to make something a little special. I'd be delighted to eat food of this standard anywhere in Dublin. To find it in the countryside, all on its lonesome, is something special. If you ever find yourself down in that little triangle where Tipperary, Kilkenny and Waterford meet, then make the effort to detour to Kilkieran Cottage.

Kilkieran Cottage, Castletown, Carrick-on-Suir, Co. Kilkenny
Tel: +353 (0)51 645 110
URL: www.kilkierancottage.ie
Twitter: @kilkierancottag

[Event] La Pergola | A Celebration @ Bon Appetit




La Pergola is the only three star Michelin restaurant in Rome, where Executive Chef Heinz Beck oversees an eye-wateringly expensive menu. If you were to opt for the tasting menu, you would leave €210 poorer and that's without wines. Even with a bargain basement Ryanair flight to Rome, that would put a dent in anyone's pocket. Fortunately, Oliver Dunne of Bon Appetit restaurant in Malahide recently hosted La Pergola | A Celebration featuring a menu inspired by this great restaurant but with a far more affordable price tag (€60 per head).

Malahide was bathed in bright light from a setting springtime sun as we took our seats in the first floor restaurant. It's so nice to watch the day pass into nighttime and have the room gradually turn from light to dark. It's definitely a summer feeling, rather than the abrupt transition we experience in winter. As you will see, the lighting in the photos below clearly shows the move from evening to night.

Tonno

Tuna with wasabi foam, pickled vegetables

Pomodoro

Roma tomato foam, tomato tartare, Taggiasca olive salt

Pesce San Pietro

John Dory, smoked aubergine puree, fresh linguini, red pepper oil

Cuscini di Vitello

Cushion of veal, pistachio crumb, puree of artichoke and Mortadella, salsa verde, roasting juices

Cioccolata Blanca

White chocolate sorbet, poached Alfonso mango, basil crisp

Tiramisu

Espresso mousse, cioccolata cream, Balsamico gel, walnut gelato, cioccolata Anglaise

For me, the standout items were the tomato tartare which was rich and meaty, full of intense tomato flavour. The veal, with it's pistachio crust, and the fresh linguine (a rare exception to my wheat-free eating) accompanying the lightly cooked John Dory were also excellent. I really enjoy coffee flavours and the quinelle of espresso mousse in the deconstructed tiramisu paired well with the walnut ice-cream. Even himself, who doesn't like white chocolate, liked the white chocolate sorbet served with basil infused mango. (I could definitely see this flavour combination inspiring a new cocktail creation in the new future.) 

Once again, Bon Appetit has demonstrated its ability to offer something a little different. The combination of three different dining venues (the Michelin restaurant, the Brasserie and `Le Bon Vin) along with frequent special offers and themed evenings, demonstrates a restaurant that caters to multiple markets, while maintaining high standards. Oliver Dunne is a modern Irish chef who produces extremely skillful dishes (I still remember a stunning clear tomato jelly), but also recognises the importance of a comfortable and friendly dining room. Bon appetit indeed!

Bon Appetit, St James' Terrace, Malahide, Co. Dublin

Tel: +353 (0)1 845 0314

URL: www.bonappetit.ie

Twitter: @bonappmalahide

[Listing] Campo Viejo Tapas Trail 2013




The Campo Viejo Tapas Trail has been great value since it launched 2 years ago in Dublin. For a pretty reasonable €20 per head, ticket holders get a walking tour of Dublin, as well as enjoying a selection of tapas and Campo Viejo wines at a selection of tapas bars. Inhabitants of Da Real Capital can also join in the fun this year, as the Tapas Trail will now also include Cork! You can read about my 2011 Tapas Trail experience here, or read below for more information...

Throughout the months of May to July, food and wine enthusiasts can enjoy the culinary culture of Spanish tapas and discover the true passion, generosity and vibrancy of Spain on the Campo Viejo Tapas Trail which will run from 8^th May to 5^th June in Cork and from 9^th June to 17^th July in Dublin. 

Inspired by the Spanish way of life and Campo Viejo’s mantra of ‘stimulating a more expressive world’, the Tapas Trail will this year bring Spain’s expressiveness and vibrancy to the streets of Dublin and Cork through urban art.   In an exciting new collaboration with renowned Irish urban artists, Psychonautes and Fatti Burke, Campo Viejo will capture Spain’s colourful culture and passion for living through bespoke installations which can be seen and enjoyed during the Tapas Trail.  Urban art features heavily in contemporary Spanish culture, with Madrid often considered the spiritual home of urban art, making it the perfect complement to the Campo Viejo Tapas Trail 2013. 

Now an annual celebration of the best of Spanish cuisine and wine, the Campo Viejo Tapas Trail allows participants to enjoy the unique colourful social experience of going from eatery to eatery and sharing a selection of authentic Spanish tapas cuisine, while experiencing  the vibrancy of Spain right on their own doorstep.  

Tickets for the Campo Viejo Tapas Trail are priced at €20 with the trail taking place each Wednesday between 6.30pm and 9.00pm and each Sunday between 2.00pm and 4.30pm (excluding Sunday 2^nd June in Cork) in participating restaurants in Dublin and Cork. During the event, participants will visit four top tapas restaurants in Dublin and Cork where they will be presented with the venue’s best three tapas specially created to complement the well balanced, tasty and round, full flavours associated with Campo Viejo Reserva.  Participants will also enjoy a glass of Campo Viejo Reserva in each restaurant. Dublin restaurants include; Salamanca, St. Andrews St., Havana Tapas Bar, Georges St., The Market Bar, Fade St. and Bagots Hutton, South William Street while participating Cork restaurants are; Arthur Mayne's, Pembroke St., Electric, South Mall, The Cornstore, Cornmarket St. and Oysters, Lapps Quay. 

80 people can participate on the trail during each session. They will be split up into four groups of 20; each group will be assigned a different route, starting from different restaurants and work their way around the trail. Hosts will guide participants on the trail educating them on the importance of the Rioja region and describing Campo Viejo’s unique characteristics. For further information and to purchase tickets, priced at €20 per person, log onto www.facebook.com/campoviejoireland or www.campoviejotapastrail.ie.