Stitch and Bear

A long-running Irish blog with reviews of the best restaurants in Dublin and throughout Ireland. Some wine and cocktails thrown in for good measure!

Saturday, September 28, 2013

[Event] Bán Poitín Launches in Ireland

When I was growing up, there was always a newspaper wrapped bottle lurking under the kitchen sink. Even in my maternal grandparents' house, a house of Pioneers, there was a twin to our newspaper wrapped bottle. It lurked in its secretive spot, only being pulled out to serve a small drop when old men visited or when it was time to bake the Christmas cake or puddings, and a good strong dose of alcohol was required. 

My aunt whispered to me that this was "poitín" (pronounced put-cheen) or illegal Irish hooch. As I grew older, I learned that one of my neighbours was a distiller of this clear, potent liquid and who was often to be seen ferrying around barrels loaded onto the rear of his battered Toyota jeep. Distilling poitín had been illegal in Ireland since 1661 and I was amazed at his boldness. Only later did I understand that poitín distilling was a somewhat tolerated local industry. 

Things have now changed and distilling of poitín is once again legal in Ireland. In fact, poitín has even been granted Geographical Indicative Status by the EU Council and European parliament in 2008. A new addition to the growing group of poitíns comes from a collaboration between Bán Poitín and West Cork Distillers (It does seem that us West Corkonians know the most about poitín!).
At the launch of Bán poitín
I recently got to meet the founders of Bán Poitín, Dave Mulligan and Cara Humphreys, at a recent launch event in a distressingly distressed and cool studio above Damson Diner. These two people are passionate about poitín, having helped establish the world's first poitín bar, Shebeen in London. And for the event, they had enlisted the services of mixologist Louis Lebaillif from Shebeen.
Louis mixing Bán cocktails
With a whole list of creatively-named cocktails including the Michael Collins, the Poitini and the Bán Ultimatum, we got the opportunity to sample poitín in a variety of cocktail styles. And it stood up to the test. This traditional-style overproof spirit, fermented using malted barley and sugar beet, delivered a slight sweetness that married well in the cocktails.

In our household, poitín was responsible for transforming the Chistmas cake into a fire hazard that shouldn't be left near the net curtains. However, I think it's now safe to say that poitín is ready to assume a place front and centre of bar counters, rather than lurking underneath the kitchen sink. 
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Sunday, September 22, 2013

[Review] Bijou Bistro, Rathgar, Dublin 6

Bijou Bistro sits at the very heart of Rathgar with stately elegance. Until recently I would have called it the Grande Dame of Rathgar with its elegant Art Deco interior and steadily solid food. It was always a good spot for a weekend brunch or Sunday lunch and its popularity with Southside Dubliners was always evident in the full tables. However, it's all too easy to rest on ones laurels and assume that a successful formula will continue to attract customers with no great effort on the part of the restauranteur. I had wondered how Bijou would fare, as its crowd-pleasing menu seemed somewhat staid when reflected in the light of a Dublin dining scene that grows ever more steadily excellent. These questions have been answered with the hiring of Ian Ussher, a former Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year, as executive chef at Bijou Bistro. 

We visited on a Friday evening once I had finished a conference call with the US, looking for a late dinner. Given the hour, we were very pleasantly surprised when  Chef Ussher offered to cook some special dishes for us. I find it generally advisable to never be rude to  knife-bearing chefs, so we sat back in the darkly comfortable dining room and relaxed. (Please note that the aforementioned darkness made photography difficult).

First up was a singe large meaty yet light raviolo served atop a portion of succulent beef, followed by a delicate sublime composition of sweet langoustine and oozing quail's egg. Pan-fried scallops were oh-so-beautifully carmelised with a classic cauliflower puree. Earlier that very day, I had seen Ian tweet (@IUssher) a picture of an experimental dish of duck Wellington and I was delighted when a portion arrived at the table alongside some duck confit and a bright scattering of jewel-like pomegranate seeds. Cod flavoured with gently warming Indian spices came with gnocchi and peas and flavoursome rich juices. 

At this stage, the clock was ticking steadily towards the midnight hour but the kitchen clearly had no pumpkins manning the stoves. In the spirit of self-preservation we declined the offer of a lamb dish and instead went straight to dessert. I'm generally not a fan of desserts that involve large chunks of fruit, but this dish of warm grilled peaches with raspberry sorbet was simply sublime and a wonderful dessert for the time of year where summer is gradually giving way to autumn. 
Stitch and Bear - Bijou Bistro - Raviolo
Raviolo with fillet of beef
Stitch and Bear - Bijou Bistro - Langoustine
Langoustine with quail's egg
Stitch and Bear - Bijou Bistro - Cod
Cod with Indian spices, peas and gnocchi
Stitch and Bear - Bijou Bistro - Grilled peaches
Grilled peaches with raspberry sorbet
A few weeks later, we returned to Bijou for a restorative brunch (or Brunchy Lunchy as written on the menu). It's a well-assembled menu with lighter options and more substantial dishes for those more in need of assistance. There's also a selection of cocktails, and we plumped for the delectable Hedgerow Fizz (elderflower cordial and prosecco).

My risotto of naturally smoked haddock was dressed with a perfect poached egg, which I popped open with glee, watching the liquid gold of the yolk cascade out. The use of haddock was perfectly judged, adding saltiness to the risotto but not overpowering with smoky flavour. His portion of Eggs Benedict came with large juicy prawns and avocado all dressed with a slightly spicy cajun hollandaise and coriander. 
The classic breakfast partners
Eggs Benedict with prawns, avocado and cajun Hollandaise
Smoked haddock risotto with poached egg
I am genuinely excited to have Ian Ussher cooking on my doorstep. He is a clear talent who makes excellent use of Irish ingredients, with well-balanced flavours and elegant modern presentation. It's hard to believe that I am eating in my local bistro as it really feels more like a fine-dining restaurant in the city centre. I fully recommend following Ian and Bijou on Twitter where he regularly posts pictures of the daily specials. These luscious snaps have nearly sent me down the road to Bijou on more than one occasion.

There are great plans afoot to fully revitalise Bijou. Obviously the changes have already started in the kitchen, but more is needed.This isn't going to be a case of slapping on some party clothes and makeup in an effort to look younger. It's going to go deeper. A mixologist will join to create cocktails at the magnificent bar, the website is going to get fully overhauled and there will be special offers (a burger or steak and a beer for €20 on weekday nights). And it's all going to be underpinned by the food of Chef Ussher. It's all turning up rosy for Bijou's future at the heart of Rathgar. 

Bijou Bistro, Rathgar, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1496 1518
URL: www.bijourathgar.ie
Twitter: @BijouBistro and @IUssher

Bijou Cafe Bistro on Urbanspoon
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Sunday, September 15, 2013

[Review] Gallo & Galetti, Wilton, Cork

When I suggested to my younger sisters that we have a Sunday lunch at Gallo & Galetti, I nearly had the hand taken off me, particularly by my still-in-college, sibling. Taking that as a sign of approval,  I arranged a table at Gallo & Galetti, conveniently giving me the chance to check out the new restaurant from Cork chef, Brendan Cashman.  Cork has missed Brendan since he closed his Augustines restaurant (formerly located in the Clarion Hotel), and people wondered where and when he would reappear. The answer has turned out to be Gallo & Galetti, an Italian restaurant

Despite being located in a drab little shopping centre across a busy road from Cork University Hospital, the interior of Gallo & Galetti is smart and fresh, with dark greens, bare stone walls and simple line drawings. Either it was a quiet Sunday or Cork eats late, as the restaurant remained largely empty during the course of our meal. While Himself is very much accustomed to the mandatory photography session at the start of every meal, my family still find it a novelty and I'm sure we amused the waitress with our food posing.  
Interior at Gallo & Galetti
My starter of pan roast sea bass with grapefuit and citrus segments (€9.00) was exceptional. Crispy salty fish skin contrasted wonderfully with the soft sharp juicy citrus, although it possibly could have benefited from less citrus segments. His portion of calamari fritti, or fried baby squid, came in rings, served in a "newspaper" cone along with a garlic, lemon and dill aioli served in an adorable pink "Le Crueset" style pot (€8.00). It was simple but spot on. However, all eyes at the table were on my middle sister, who had ordered the mussels (€8.50). They came piled mountainously high, dressed in a tomato, chili and basil sauce. She was still slurping up the tasty sauce long after the rest of us had cleared our plates. 
Pan-fried seabass with citrus
Calamari
Gallo & Galetti offer gluten-free versions of all their pastas (albeit for a €1.50 supplement) and I looked forward to the gentle spiciness of a bowl of penne all 'arriabbata (€12.00 plus supplement). Despite the annoying confusion of hairball lettuce on top, the pasta itself was rich and satisfying with just the right touch of creaminess. Unfortunately, the pizza isn't available in a gluten-free version, otherwise I would have snagged a decent portion of his pizza topped with crisp pancetta, semi sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella (€14.00). All I can say is that the thin, crispy base looked great to my longing eye.
Penne all' arrabiatta
Crispy pancetta, sun-dried tomato and mozzarella pizza
I've often despaired of Italian food in Cork, but Gallo & Galetti is delivering top notch dishes at pleasing prices. Browsing their Facebook page reveals a promotion offering antipasto misto with a selected bottle of red or white wine for a mere €20.00 on Tuesday - Sunday between 13.00 and 18.30.  

We dined at lunchtime, but it's worth noting that the menu expands in the evening to include typical Italian meat dishes. The simple wine list reads well with attractive pricing. All in all, Gallo & Galetti is somewhere to return to. Bellissimo!

Gallo & Galetti, High-Street Shopping Centre, Wilton, Cork
Tel: +353 (0)21 434 1095
URL: www.galloandgaletti.ie
Twitter: @ChefBrendanCash

Gallo & Galetti on Urbanspoon
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Wednesday, September 11, 2013

[Listing] Kanchi Dine in the Dark at Waterford Harvest Festival

Kanchi "Dine in the Dark" is a pop-up restaurant with a difference coming to the Waterford Harvest Festival this weekend (September 12th-15th). Guided by a team of visually impaired hosts, guests will enjoy a truly unique dining experience as they sample food prepared by local chefs, while immersed in complete darkness. 

Social enterprise Kanchi work to transform how people think about disability through unique experiences and events. Nikki Hegarty of Kanchi explained the concept behind this event, "We have created Kanchi Dine in the Dark as a way to enable guests to experience how, by removing one sense, others can be altered and heightened, encouraging them to value different abilities. How we communicate is also impacted when we are alone in the dark, making the social side of the experience unlike any other."

Kanchi Dine in the Dark takes place at the Harvest Festival from September 12th - 15th, in the Medieval Museum. The cost is €15 per person, including a selection of "taster" plates. Each session will last one hour. Pre-booking is available on the festival website and is strongly advised owing to the limited capacity of this event. 

Please email nicola@kanchi.org to make a corporate booking.

‘Kanchi Dine in the Dark” is a pop-up restaurant with a difference coming to the Waterford Harvest Festival this weekend. Guided by a team of visually impaired hosts, guests will enjoy a truly unique dining experience as they sample food prepared by local chefs, whilst immersed in complete darkness. - See more at: http://www.kanchi.org/blog/kanchi-dine-in-the-dark-at-this-years-waterford-harvest-festival/#sthash.62G2cTrv.dpuf
Social enterprise, Kanchi work to transform how people think about disability through unique experiences and events. Nikki Hegarty of Kanchi explained the concept behind this event, “We have created Kanchi Dine in the Dark, as a way to enable guests to experience how, by removing one sense, others can be altered and heightened, encouraging them to value different abilities. How we communicate is also impacted when we are in the dark, making the social side of the experience unlike any other”.

Kanchi Dine in the Dark takes place at the Harvest Festival from 12th – 15th September, in the Medieval Museum. The cost is €15 per person, including a selection of ‘taster’ plates. Each session lasts one hour. Pre-booking is available on the Festival website and is strongly advised owing to the limited capacity of this event.
Please contact Nicola@kanchi.org to make a corporate booking, we hope to see you there!
- See more at: http://www.kanchi.org/blog/kanchi-dine-in-the-dark-at-this-years-waterford-harvest-festival/#sthash.62G2cTrv.dpuf
Social enterprise, Kanchi work to transform how people think about disability through unique experiences and events. Nikki Hegarty of Kanchi explained the concept behind this event, “We have created Kanchi Dine in the Dark, as a way to enable guests to experience how, by removing one sense, others can be altered and heightened, encouraging them to value different abilities. How we communicate is also impacted when we are in the dark, making the social side of the experience unlike any other”.

Kanchi Dine in the Dark takes place at the Harvest Festival from 12th – 15th September, in the Medieval Museum. The cost is €15 per person, including a selection of ‘taster’ plates. Each session lasts one hour. Pre-booking is available on the Festival website and is strongly advised owing to the limited capacity of this event.
Please contact Nicola@kanchi.org to make a corporate booking, we hope to see you there!
- See more at: http://www.kanchi.org/blog/kanchi-dine-in-the-dark-at-this-years-waterford-harvest-festival/#sthash.62G2cTrv.dpuf
Social enterprise, Kanchi work to transform how people think about disability through unique experiences and events. Nikki Hegarty of Kanchi explained the concept behind this event, “We have created Kanchi Dine in the Dark, as a way to enable guests to experience how, by removing one sense, others can be altered and heightened, encouraging them to value different abilities. How we communicate is also impacted when we are in the dark, making the social side of the experience unlike any other”.

Kanchi Dine in the Dark takes place at the Harvest Festival from 12th – 15th September, in the Medieval Museum. The cost is €15 per person, including a selection of ‘taster’ plates. Each session lasts one hour. Pre-booking is available on the Festival website and is strongly advised owing to the limited capacity of this event.
Please contact Nicola@kanchi.org to make a corporate booking, we hope to see you there!
- See more at: http://www.kanchi.org/blog/kanchi-dine-in-the-dark-at-this-years-waterford-harvest-festival/#sthash.62G2cTrv.dpuf
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Sunday, September 8, 2013

[Review] La Bohème, George's Street, Waterford

La Bohème opened its doors in Waterford in 2006, but it's taken me quite a few years to cross their threshold. This is despite that fact that I have been visiting Waterford regularly for many years now as the other half of a Waterford man. I thought that I was completely up to speed with Waterford eateries, but there's always an exception to the rule. It turns out that La Bohème was about to change my perspective entirely.

Chef Eric Tréze, a native of Brittany, along with his wife Christine have located their restaurant in the restored vaults of the Port of Waterford building. From the outside, it's a classically and elegantly proportioned Georgian building, with the entrance La Bohème off to one side. As we went down the narrow plain stone steps, I wasn't sure what to expect inside. A narrow doorway opens out with a cocktail & little lounge area nestled to the right and a private dining room to the left behind a velvet curtain. Walking down the stone flagged corridor leads to the dining room, complete with its beautiful vaulted ceiling. La Bohème has featured in Food & Wine magazine as one of the Top 10 Romantic dining rooms and it's easy to see why. The whole room just (discretely) shouts romance and intimacy.

The menu at La Bohème is a pretty hefty affair with several variations on offer, as well a detailed listing of local and Irish produce suppliers. All four of us decided that the €35 Market Menu offered the best value. It's a real treat to find a set menu that offers lots of choice, rather than an anaemic list of the more basic dishes. To accompany the meal, we ordered Rose de Rosine, a light, strawberry influenced rosé (supplied by Tyrrell & Company), which was on special offer at €25 per bottle.
La Bohème, Waterford
Dining room at La Bohème
To get started, we received an extra special amuse bouche, including an excellent spring roll of Ardsallagh goats cheese, terrine and rilettes.  His risotto of scallions, girolles, Parma ham with rocket, truffle oil and parmesan was superb, served in a bowl that could have been used to explain the concept of gravitational wells. My choice of starter featured both blow torched marinated salmon and house-smoked salmon.  The accompanying coriander and lightly curried mousse made for an interesting twist on a classic Irish dish. On the other side of the table, Mr H stunned us all by breaking the habit of a lifetime when he ordered the crab creme brulée instead of his more normal soup. His deviation was rewarded however, with a light and tasty pot of crabmeat.
Risotto of scallions, girolles and Parma ham
Marinated and smoked salmon served with coriander and curry mousse
Baked fillet of Dunmore East hake with confit fennel, parsley salsa verde and white anchovies was literally immense, the single biggest fillet of fish that I've ever seen served. Despite the size, the dish was clean and a perfect blend of French cooking with Irish produce. My main of roast lump of Waterford lamb was spot on pink, served with rich, flavoursome aubergine caviar and rosemary jus. All mains were accompanied with generous portions of perfectly cooked, buttered vegetables. 
Baked fillet of Dunmore East hake
Roast rump of Waterford lamb
By the time the main courses were cleared away, we were beginning to think that some heavy duty machinery would be required to get us out of our seats. Clearly La Bohème caters for an audience who demand substance as well as quality in their meals. (I call this the country effect. Outside of Dublin, larger portions are more in demand, making it a risky business to spend extended periods outside the Pale). Somehow though, nearly miraculously we all found room for dessert. It was nearly a clean sweep for the creme brûlée with salty caramel ice-cream, although Mrs H did buck the trend by choosing the classic chocolate and coffee L'Opera cake. 
Creme brûlée with salty caramel ice-cream
We had taken our seats early in the night when the dining room was still quiet and peaceful. By the end of our meal, the room was full, with the accompanying level of background noise. The brightly lit kitchen pass allowed us to see the chefs at work, as well as giving us a voyeuristic view on all the plates leaving the pass. Service was attentive and excellent throughout, even to the point of correct wine pouring etiquette. 

Afterwards, we walked along the Quays in the setting sun in an effort to assuage the culinary damage we had done to ourselves. La Bohème is a hidden gem, sitting quietly below street level. But then, treasures are often found underground.

Waterford Restaurant Trail
La Bohème have teamed up with the Bodega to bring diners a Waterford Restaurant Trail every Wednesday. Both restaurants take pride in sourcing local and Irish produce and have designed menus to showcase local produce. The Trail will alternate its starting point every week, with amuse bouche, starter and fish course in the first restaurant. You will then be taken on a guided walk to the second venue where you enjoy the meat, dessert and tea/coffee courses. Tickets cost €39.50 per head. Contact La Bohème or the Bodega for further information and bookings. 

La Bohème, George's Street, Waterford
Tel: +353  (0)51 875 645
URL: www.labohemerestaurant.ie
Twitter: @bohemewaterford

La Boheme on Urbanspoon
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Sunday, September 1, 2013

[Review] The Liquor Rooms, Wellington Quay, Dublin 2

It would appear that Dublin is in the grip of cocktail fever. Some seismic shift has taken place in the minds of the Dublin drinker, and we are now seeking something a little different to the hideous, soulless late night bars of the Celtic Tiger days. The Liquor Rooms underneath the Clarence Hotel on Wellington Quay is the newest offering to Dublin's cocktail scene. It's also conveniently close to Bison BBQ which may lead to dangerous mixing of cocktails and smoked meats sometime in my future.

The entrance takes you down the rabbit hole, or a carpeted wallpapered staircase that could come straight from your grandmother's house. The first space is the Black Rabbit Room, complete with pink and white carnival ceiling and large comfortable leather chairs. I think that it has more than a touch of French whorehouse or Moulin Rouge about it. If I saw a little Absinthe fairy fluttering around, I wouldn't be surprised.  From there, you move to the Boom Boom Room, complete with DJ space, dance floor and a wall lined with antique cast iron fireplaces. Little niches and small tables are spread around and old-fashioned portraits which look down  with judging stares. 
Drinks in the Boom Boom Room
Along the corridor takes you to the Blind Tiger Room complete with marbled bar, before  finally ending up in the Art Deco-inspired Mayflower Room. The decorative pressed tin ceiling and potted plants make this room feel airy and somewhat conservatory like. I immediately had visions of having a drinking room like this in my own home someday. After all, drinking should be done in a civilised manner, n'est pas?

The Liquor Rooms definitely looks great, but do the cocktails walk the walk? Upon opening the attractive leather-bound menu, we are greeted with a quote from legendary imbiber Ernest Hemmingway, which sets the tone pretty well.
"This is a good place" he said. "There's a lot of liquor" I agreed.
Over the course of two visits, we've sampled quite a few drinks off the menu, and the results are more than favourable. The classic Clover Club (a mixture of gin, lemon juice, raspberry and egg white) was perfectly sharp and slightly sweet. An Amalfi was a delectable grown-up mix of rum, limoncello, maraschino and dry vermouth. The So So Sour was a whiskey based drink, featuring an unusual (but old-fashioned) layer of red wine, while the Fraise Sauvage was a blend of gin and Chambord, topped up with prosecco and fragranced with some dried rose buds. 
The Amalfi
So So Sour
Fraise Sauvage (with dried rosebuds)
In addition to libations, The Liquor Rooms also offers a range of vittles to help balance your indulgence. Corn dogs with mustard mayo and sweet sticky chicken wings went down very well, but to my dismay I wasn't allowed order the skinny fries with curry mayo. 

Prices start at €9.50 for cocktails and go up to €11 (if I recall correctly). A selection of craft beers is also available for those are not yet ready to embrace the cocktail. Table service is available and the staff genuinely cannot do enough to help. The Liquor Rooms are quirky and fun, with an adult edge. Time to make like Alice in Wonderland.

The Liquor Rooms, 5 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)87 661 5278
URL: theliquorrooms.com
Twitter: @TheLiquorRooms
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