[Event] Tiger Street Eats

The recent announcement of Michelin-starred street food in Dublin, courtesy of Tiger beer, definitely caused a bit of buzz. At €10 per ticket, the Tiger Street Eats event offered the chance to try the world famous chicken from the Singaporean Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle street food hawker stand.  Tiger Street Eats is a concept designed to showcase the vibrancy of Singapore streets, and has already travelled to Auckland, Kuala Lumpur and New York. Dublin was the first European venture, and as you'd expect in a city that would go to the opening of a postcard, the tickets quickly sold out. 

Tiger Beer Street Eats

[Review] Nightmarket, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

I've spent the past 16 months travelling every week for work, flying out to Amsterdam first thing on Monday morning, returning late on Thursday. But now it's all over, and I'm back in Dublin for the foreseeable future. On one hand, I'm delighted. Normal life can resume again, rather than living permanently out of a suitcase. But on the other hand, I'm already missing my flights and hotels, and of course, I'm desperately missing Amsterdam, a city in which I've spent close to 2 and a half years working. 

But being home does allow me to start visiting all those new spots I haven't tried yet.  And first up was Nightmarket, Ranelagh's newest restaurant, taking over the location left vacant by the recent closure of An Bhialann. It's so new that signage is still to be erected and the website is still in launch mode.  Owned by by Conor Sexton (known for Dublin's well-loved Koh restaurant) and his wife R, Nightmarket promises traditional regional Thai food. Sounds great.

Yum Makeua Yao

[Review] Kyoto Asian Street Food, High Street, Waterford

It's great to see the food scene in Waterford being reinvigorated, as some form of recovery finally takes hold in the Crystal City. Mr and Mrs H had recently been praising a new Japanese restaurant that had opened in the former Johnny Fan's premise on High Street, and so it was duly put on the list for our next visit. 

Kyoto Asian Street Food is firmly in the vein of many recent openings in Dublin. A light interior with solid wooden tables and benches reflect the Japanese heritage, while the menu also offers curries and dishes from other Asian cuisines. A series of hand-painted wall murals add colour to the sleek design. One of the most interesting things I noticed was the steady trade from younger customers, a sure sign that this restaurant has the right food for success.

Interior at Kyoto Asian Street Food

[Review] Old Town, Capel Street, Dublin 1

It's been a while since I recommended a Chinese restaurant on the blog. I'm often asked on Twitter to point friends in the direction of the latest authentic Chinese restaurant that I've uncovered in my non-ending quest for Chinese food. Therefore, in the spirit of sharing, I bring you Old Town located on Capel Street. Several Chinese restaurants have flared brightly at this location in the past, only to die out, but Old Town appears to be doing well so far. 

The cuisine at Old Town is Sichuan-influenced, but it's not hardcore, making it very approachable. The menu is the usual book of delicious looking photos and the occasional oddball translation from the native Chinese. However, I've found the staff to be very friendly, and always willing to make a recommendation, so don't be afraid to put yourself into their hands. The interior has gotten a needed refresh since the last occupants with straightforward wooden furniture, a good lick of paint and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling.

Interior at Old Town

[Review] Bread & Bones, Dublin 1

During the week, I fell ill with one of those 24 hour bugs that flashes through you. It disappears as quick as it arrives, but the aftermath leaves you feeling tired and drained. Over the course of the day, I drank lots of water and some tea, but I couldn't bring myself to look at food. Later in the day though, I was hungry and I wanted something that would help set me right. To be accurate, I felt in need of some pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) or something similar. 

Bread & Bones is a newly opened on Dublin's Northside, just a stone's throw from the Jervis Centre and Luas stop. Essentially it's a street food restaurant serving a fashionable mix of ramen soups, steamed buns (bao) and banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches). The noodle soups are served in homemade bone broths, hence the moniker Bread & Bones. 

A few small tables are lined up outside in the afternoon sunshine with diners happily tucking in. The inside of the restaurant is quieter, with several large mismatched tables scattered around and other smaller tables tucked into corners. It's a wide open space, with industrial height ceilings and a large open kitchen behind a high counter. The decor theme is manga rustic and the staff are warmly friendly without being off-putting. Posters advertising late evening dj sets make it clear that evening time is fun time at Bread & Bones. 

The open kitchen at Bread & Bones

Himself opted for the lunchtime offer of 3 bao (oriental steamed buns) for €15, or individually available at €5.50 each. The lunchtime menu offers a choose of 5 different fillings and we ended up with roasted pork belly, teriyaki chicken and panko crusted tiger prawn versions. The bao themselves are delicately soft, sweetly doughy and perfectly sized to be demolished in 3-4 mouthfuls. The addition of sauces such as chili mayo or hoisin sauce and tangy vegetable pickles adds crunch and flavour to the buns. Each one is a hit. 

Bao at Bread & Bones

Roasted pork belly boa with carrot pickle, peanuts and hoisin sauce

Bone broths may not look the prettiest at times, but they are gloriously restorative. When done well, they often have a little fat floating on the surface and are full of meaty flavour. Bread & Bones make their own broths and I choose the roasted pork belly soup to help sooth my insides (€10). A medium sized bowl came filled with rice noodles, soft slices of roasted pork belly, half of a soft boiled egg, bamboo and bright green scallions for some crunch. 

Even though I was still slightly under the weather, I shook in some generous amounts of chili oil and bright red Sriracha sauce, picked up my chopsticks and ladle and got stuck in. With each slurpful, I could feel myself improving, slowly returning to centre. It was just the right tonic for my ails. 

Pork belly noodle soup

Tap water is bought to our tables in large bottles, and a quick look at the short wine list reveals some very interesting, modern options. Any young hip restaurant isn't complete without a craft beer selection and Bread & Bones has a decent listing of Irish and international beers and ciders. 

Bread & Bones has hit the proverbial nail on the proverbial head. It's fun, casual, tasty and reasonably healthy. The large open space means that it's particularly child-friendly, but I found it to be everyone-friendly. The grand total for lunch, including a glass of crisp Picpoul de Pinet and a soft drink, came to a wallet-friendly €33.50. Mission accomplished.  

Bread & Bones, 7 Millennium Walkway, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)85 215 2408
URL: breadandbones.ie
Twitter: @Breadandbonesir
Instagram: @breadandbones

[Review] Jojos, Parnell Street, Dublin 1

According to the oracle that is Google, the restaurant at the centre of this week's review doesn't exist. Or at least, I can only find one other blog post which references it. No Facebook page or any anything else. The odds of a location not being found on Google is highly unlikely, so I can only assume that the error lies with me and I am somehow remembering Jojo's incorrectly.

I do know however, that I have eaten twice recently in Jojos, so unless I am transitioning to some parallel dimension when I walk down Parnell Street, it most definitely does exist, and it is most definitely very good. There's clearly been some investment in the interior with black marble topped tables and movable extraction flues to position over the traditional BBQs and hotspots. It's a far call from the first Chinese restaurants which opened on Parnell Street.

Over the course of our two visits, we got to try a good selection of dishes. We haven't yet tried the hotpot or BBQ options, which are very popular with the large groups of Asians I've seen in the restaurant. Leaf buns, filled with fresh shredded green vegetables were steamed and then pan-fried, but could have benefited from a side portion of dipping sauce. There's a wide range of spicy BBQ skewers available including chicken gizzards and hearts, but we stuck with the more familiar options of chicken and lamb, flavoured with chili and cumin seeds.

Leaf buns

Chicken and lamb BBQ skewers

I did ask if the Chongqing chicken could be prepared off the bone, only to be met by a resounding "NO". Much as I love this style of cooking, the thought of biting into a piece of chicken bone unnerves me. I ordered regardless and was rewarded by a dish of intensely deep-fried, crispy chicken pieces with a scattering of fermented beans, chills and other tasty additions. Even with careful inspection for bone pieces, we still cleared the plate. 

Cumin beef was tender with moist chunks of beef mixed through with cumin and coriander stalks. Deep-fried fish were topped with a richly flavoursome sauce of ginger, Chinese pork, fermented beans and dried mushrooms. Once the fish was all gone, I scooped tablespoons of this addictive sauce into my rice bowl to make sure that I got every last bit. 

A dish of pork fat and deep-fried tofu was questioned by our waiter who didn't think it would suit our western tastes. To be fair, he did this in a very nice way, but we were rewarded with a clay bowl of fatty belly pork pieces in a rich red broth with cabbage leaves and bean sprouts. 

Chongqing chicken (on the bone)

Cumin beef

Fried fish with Chinese pork and mushrooms

Fried green beans with minced pork

Pork fat and fried tofu

I sometimes find the Chinatown restaurants to be hit and miss. By this I mean that I will get wonderful, flavoursome authentic dishes on one visit, only to get the "Westernised', gloopy version on the next visit. I don't know why this happens, but it's so far, so very good at Jojos. All dishes that we had were under €10 in price and the portions are more than ample. The heat levels are not very high at Jojos either, which would suit people who would to explore authentic Chinese food.

The bill from our second visit to Jojos

Jojo's, Parnell Street, Dublin 1.

Contact details unknown!

[Review] China Sichuan, Dublin 18

I've recently been reading a blog series from Sybaritica about Chinese characters and how to understand them in the context of food and dining. I'm only a few characters in, but I'm already starting to go a little cross-eyed as I start to appreciate this complex language. However, I have learned to recognise the three parallel strokes that symbolise one of my favourite Chinese cuisines, namely Sichuan cooking. I  was delighted to be able to pick that character out on the menu cover at China Sichuan. Watch out non-English speaking restaurants, I'm coming!

China Sichuan is surely the sleekest Chinese restaurant in Dublin. Located in a custom-built premises in Sandyford Industrial Estate, it's presided over by the charming, second generation restaurateur Kevin Hui. Upon arriving, our coats were taken with a warm welcome before being led into the dining room, which is all dark woods, slate and subdued lighting. It simply (discretely) shouts style. I already knew that I was going to enjoy China Sichuan. The question was how would this upmarket and polished restuarant compare to some of my Dublin Chinatown favourites?

A little dish of pickled and peeled cucumber strips were crunchy and sweet. They disappeared quickly, leaving us forlornly waiting for the starters.  Cold pork belly slices were delicately wrapped around  beanspouts, perched on top of a slice of pickled cucumber (€6.00). The spicy garlic and soy sauce dressing ensured that each mouthful was intense and savoury. Luóbo gao or Chinese turnip cake pan-fried and tossed with XO sauce (€8), was a wonderful surprise. The cubes of turnip were light, even fluffy and extremely moreish. Our final starter featured fresh, meaty prawns in a foamy and buttery salted duck egg coating (€8.50).

Pickled cucumbers 

Pork belly slices with spicy garlic sauce

Prawns with salted duck egg

Luóbo Gao - Chinese turnip cake

I had chosen my main of Chong Qing chicken from the Chef's Recommendations section, where it was accompanied by a little triangle, indicating moderately spicy (€15.00). The advertised mixture of dried and fresh chilis seasoned with ground Sichuan pepper had drawn me in like a moth to a flame. What arrived at the table was a richly coloured bowl of chicken, cashews and chills  Lots of chills to be honest, all coated with the numbing magic of Sichuan pepper. It's not for the faint of heart, but I loved every minute of it. Himself had stuck with the specials for his main course, opting for Ballinwillin organic venison cooked with chili and Chinese greens (€20.00). I was curious to see how the chefs would tackle venison, which turned out to be tenderly cooked in a slightly peppery sauce. 

At this stage, we can't visit any Chinese restaurant without ordering a portion of fried long green beans. At China Sichuan, the beans are a bit more expensive than usual (€15.00), but come tossed with minced pork and deliciously salty bits. Along with the Chong Qing chicken, it was an umami slap to the tastebuds, leaving them calling out for more. 

Chong Qing chicken with dried and fresh chillis

Green beans fried with minced pork

Ballinwillin venison

Throughout the meal, I stuck with a glass of delicious Gewürztraminer whose floral aromatics contrasted well with the spicy flavours, while it was bottles of Tsing Tao Chinese beer for Himself. The waiting staff were flawlessly perfect throughout, often cracking a joke, but always attentive. 

China Sichuan straddles two worlds effortlessly. On one hand it is sleekly modern, frequently by wealthy South Dubliners, while on the other hand, the food from the kitchen is authentic and true. It's a true marriage of modernity and tradition, showcasing a vibrant and modern Chinese cuisine. After all, it's hard to resist the allure of dishes like tea-smoked duck or pork shreds in the tantalising tasty "fish fragrance" sauce. (By the way, there's no actual fish involved, it just means that the sauce was traditionally suited to fish).

China Sichuan isn't cheap overall, but if you're on a budget there is a two course lunch menu on offer for €15.00, while the Early Bird offers two courses for €20.00. With the Stillorgan Luas stop just literally 2 minutes walk from the restaurant, it's hard not to find a reason to give it a try. If you fancy a Chinese dalliance, then China Sichuan is a good place to go.

China Sichuan, The Forum, Ballymoss Road, Sandyford Industrial Estate, Dublin 18

Tel: +353 (0)1 293 5100
URL: china-sichuan.ie
Twitter: @ChinaSichuanD18

[Review] Opium, Wexford Street, Dublin 2

There's an extremely hip new kid in town, the very smartly named Opium, which aims to bring a touch of the cool Hakkasan vibe to Dublin. For those of you who have never heard of Hakkasan, it's an achingly cool modern Asian restaurant, which started out in London and has spread across the world. I recently walked past the Las Vegas location, which featured spa-like soothing water features and floating flower petals, and that was just the entrance.

Based on the above, you can safely infer that Opium, with restauranteur Martina Fox onboard, is targeting the young and beautiful portion of the market. And the remodeled interior is beautiful. Soft golden lighting, exposed brick, interior window walls and leather seating make for a very welcoming room. The only let down are the thin-legged, perpetually rickety-feeling, French bistro-style chairs. Confusingly for a restaurant serving Asian food, I didn't see much oriental stylings in the room, other than a feature wall facing the rear and a single statue standing guard. 

The interior at Opium

While waiting for himself to arrive, I ordered a Japanese Sazerac made with Nikka whiskey which imparted a nicely gentle smoky flavour (€9.90). The food menu is a mix of different Asian cuisines, which allows you to cherry pick your favourite dishes. Vietnamese rolls (a mix of chargrilled prawns, various herbs and vegetables) were fresh and crunchy, but a bit scant for an €8.50 price tag. A clever little bowl of Sriracha mayonnaise came on the side for added spicy goodness.  Scallop and halibut ceviche was crisply sour and a little spicy with sweet mango for balance (€10.50).  

(Pardon the poor quality of the photos below, but we were eating in the bar area where the light was low)

Scallops and halibut ceviche

Vietnamese rolls

Despite dithering with the main courses for ages, both of us ended up with similar dishes, beef rendang (€17.50) for me and red curry duck for Himself (€17.95). Both were indulgently rich and creamy, as only coconut-based curries can be. His dish featured a generous leg of confit duck, while mine had large chunks of tender beef, topped with crunchy coconut. Due to the low lighting in the restaurant, we failed to notice a generous sprig of fresh green peppercorns lurking in the red curry, which were promptly ejected back out. Tasty sweetcorn fritters (€4.50) made for an alternative side dish, but I want to go back for the chicharron or crispy pork scratchings (€3.50) which were unfortunately not available on the night we visited. 

Beef rendang

Red curry duck

We liked the food, we liked the interior, but unfortunately we didn't terribly like the music and atmosphere. If  Opium binned the generic CD of naff lounge "choons"(well, at least during dining hours) and figured out a way to fuse the stunning interior with the Asian flavours, then they could really be onto something sweet. 

The million dollar question is if Dublin is ready for achingly cool, and if so, has Opium reached that zenith? The answer to the former is a probable yes, but unfortunately, the answer to the latter is no. Don't get me wrong though, Opium reached pretty high. The venue is a wonderful reworking of a previously popular nightspot, while the food is very good (but not better than several other restaurants which are already at that standard). I just wish it was a more comfortable spot to eat. 

Opium,  26 Wexford Street, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 526 7711
URL: www.opium.ie
Twitter: @OpiumDublin

[Review] Zakura Sushi & Noodles, Wexford Street, Dublin 2

I can't keep up with the current pace of restaurant openings in Dublin! I've never really struggled for material for this blog, but lately I feel swamped. There are cool things happening on every corner with cool concepts and too-cool-for-school kids. Thankfully, one of the new openings comes from an old friend, and brings a nice relaxed pace.

Nearly two years (tempus fugit) I reviewed Musashi Sushi & Noodles on the Northside's Capel Street. I was impressed with its simple organic wooden decor, clean sushi and good value.  And now Zakura on Wexford Street. brings a similar, clean approach to the Southside with its wooden paneled walls and seats. Simple and quick to fit out, yet it perfectly suits the clean, organic nature of Japanese cuisine. 

A cute kimmi doll adorns the cover of the menu, which inside bears more than a striking resemblance to the menu from a particular restaurant chain. There's a good mix of sushi, small plates, teppan, rice and noodle dishes to choose from as you sip your little cup of green tea. Special value €8 lunch dishes and €9 Bento boxes are sure to bring the local office workers looking for a tasty, cost-effective meal. 

The cutey-pie menu complete with Kimmi Doll

Good value lunch time specials

I ordered a yaki bibimbap, a Korean dish of rice, fresh and pickled vegetables, seasoned meat and a fried egg served in a nuclear hot stone bowl. To eat, all the ingredients are mixed vigorously together before getting stuck in. It's a tasty and filling dish, a great choice for a cold winter's day. 

Himself also went with a rice option, cooking the cha han (€7.99), a classic Japanese dish of fried rice, vegetables and meat. Here the cha han came piled high, packed with crunchy green beans and rich fungus. Both dishes came with little bowls of miso soup, while the cha han also had a little bowl of addictively delicious pickles. A small portion of spicy tuna roll gained its spiciness from a dollop of sriracha-like sauce. Simple, just like sushi should be. 

Yaki Bibimbap

Cha Han

Spicy tuna roll

Zakura hits the nail spot on the proverbial head. There's enough variety on the menu to keep you coming back, plus it's cracking value for the lunchtime crowd, or an attractive option for an early evening dinner. It operates a BYOB policy for a mere €4, (hopefully this won't attract the usual drunken Wexford Street crowd). Sometimes you don't need to be the hottest, latest venue. Sometimes a calm, internal confidence is all that's required. 

Zakura Sushi, 13 Wexford Street, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 555 8000
URL: www.facebook.com/ZakuraDublin

[Review] Yuan Ming Yuan, Princes Street, Cork

Cork has been a bit of a wasteland when it comes to authentic or proper Chinese food. There are many Chinese restaurants, but all are of the European variety. Having said that, some of these restaurants are quite good, while others are downright poor and overpriced. One of the more highly-rated establishments in Cork has caused me to cry with despair at both the gloopy quality of its food and its high prices.  I suspect that it holds fond memories for many people and hence it continues.

Yuan Ming Yuan (YMY) is a welcome spot, and it's become my default Chinese restaurant when back home in Cork. Even though it had been over a half year since my last visit, the friendly waiter immediately recognised me and made sure that our table was set with chopsticks and rice bowls, rather than cutlery. The interior of YMY is extremely ornate with lots of carved dark wooden screens and an intricate ceiling festooned with Chinese lanterns. I don't think I've ever seen so many dragons in one location.

To the best of my knowledge, YMY is the only restaurant in Cork offering Dim Sum, and we ordered a portion of Siew Mai or steamed prawn and pork dumplings (€3.90) from the selection on offer. The pork filling had a really satisfying firm bite and was studded with chunks of prawn and spring onions. A little bowl of roasted chili oil provided a little kick to the juicy and fragrant dumplings. 

Prawn and pork steamed dumplings

A whole steamed seabass came opened out, sitting in fragrant juices and topped with gingery pickled vegetables (€13.95). The moist flesh slid free of the bones with some careful prodding of chopsticks and we scooped it up along with the light juices and vegetables. Grilled spicy lamb skewers were mixed with chunks of raw white onion which grilled to a crunchy finish on the sizzlingly-hot cast iron platter (€15.95). The cost was a bit expensive for three skewers, but the lamb retained its moistness and was gently spicy with lots of toasted cumin.

Steamed seabass with pickled vegetables

Grilled spicy lamb skewers

I think I spent many of my postgraduate years in UCC looking  for authentic Chinese food. Perversely, it seemed that I had to leave before I would find what I sought. For the less adventurous diners, YMY offers the standard Chinese fare, but please look beyond those options to find the more authentic dishes and dim sum. I think you'll be pleased.

Yuan Ming Yuan, 17 Princes Street, Cork
Tel: +353 (0)21 425 4968
URL: www.ymy.ie

[Review] M&L Szechaun Restaurant, Cathedral Street, Dublin 1

Dear readers, I have a confession to make. It has been barely more than 12 hours since my last Chinese meal and I already crave more. As I sit here, it is a blustery yet stunningly beautiful Sunday morning in Dublin's fair city. Clouds are scurrying across an azure sky and surely it is a time to think about Eggs Benedict or perhaps a proper fry. However, in my head I am dreaming of streamed fish with fragrant ginger and garlic, or perhaps lip-tingling Sichuan peppers dotted throughout a dish of crispy chicken and peanuts. 

I have several favourite Chinese restaurants in Dublin, which I alternate through depending on my moods and desires. All have featured on this blog, some more than once. In fact, this is a second mention for the M&L Szechuan Restaurant, over 3 years since I first mentioned it. The M&L Szechuan restaurant lies in the shadow of St. Mary's Pro Cathedral, a mere hop and a skip from O'Connell Street. Despite the solemn surroundings, M&L is a vibrant spot, often packed and full of bright flavours and aromas. As the name suggests, the main dishes originate from Szechuan province, famous for its use of spicy and pungent flavours. Inside, the restaurant is cosily lit and the staff are welcoming. The M&L used to suffer from the problem of having dreary English and exotic Chinese menus, but things have improved and there are now many authentic offerings on the English menu. 

Deep-fried seabass with chili garlic garlic sauce came on the bone (€13.50) with a bright flash of spring onions. The sweetness of the sauce had been tempered with garlic, resulting in a sticky sauce in which to dip the delicate white flesh.  Stir-fried dry beef with hot and spicy taste (€10.50) was flavoured with cumin and fermented beans and finished with sugar, resulting in a carmelised flavour to balance the salty & spicy flavours. It was also a visually pretty dish with dark red dried chills and bright green from fresh coriander and spring onion. 

Deep fried seabass with chili garlic sauce

We managed to go off-piste when we persuaded our waiter to provide a dish of aubergine and pork from the Chinese menu. It didn't look the most appealing when it arrived but it was melt in the mouth good. Gently sweet and salty, the aubergine had nearly completely disappeared and the whole dish was a lovely counterpoint to spicy beef. Glasses of Tsingtao rice beer were cold and refreshing and great value at €3 a bottle. 

Stir-fried dry beef, Tsingtao beer and aubergine & pork

A dish of deep-fried crispy chicken and peanuts was flavoured with chili (€10.50) and the fearsome Sichuan peppercorn. Little pieces of chicken skin had escaped from the flesh and had been fried separately. They literally exploded with flavour in the mouth and I searched throughout the entire plate, picking out all these little morsels. Dark red dried chilis make this dish moderately spicy, but the heat factor is amplified if you manage to pick up some of the lurking peppercorns (which confusingly aren't actually peppercorns, but in fact berries).

Shredded pork in hot and sour sauce and chicken with chili and peanuts

The climate of Sichuan province tends to dampness (not unlike our own home) and therefore the cuisine features salty and spicy flavours to ward off foul humours. Perhaps this explains why I always feel virtuously healthy after a Sichuan meal, despite the fact that I will have eaten several courses, and practically licked every drop of garlicky oil off the plates. Or perhaps its the fact that a typical meal of 3 courses, several beers and rice will typically come to under €40.

If you like Chinese food but have been nervous about trying more authentic dishes, then M&L could well be the spot for you. Each dish has a wonderful balance of sweet, salty, sour and spicy flavours, and the welcoming staff will help you order something suited to your tastes.  Personally, I intend to keep going until I crack the elusive all-Chinese menu. Soft-shell crabs cooked in egg yolk, you have been warned.

M&L Szechuan Restaurant, 13-14 Cathedral Street, Dublin 1

Tel:+353 (0)1 874 8038

URL: www.mlchineserestaurant.com

Twitter: @MlChinese

[Review] Aobaba, Capel Street, Dublin 1

Back in December, I wrote about a new Vietnamese pho restaurant that had opened on Parnell Street.  Since then, that location has proved extremely popular with Dublin diners, proving the Kevin Costner adage that if you build it, they will come. Alongside this venue, I'd heard about a second Vietnamese eatery on Capel Street. Aobaba is a small cafe painted in a palette of pastel colours, which offers a selection of Vietnamese street food along with milk and bubble teas. You order and pay at the counter, take your seat and wait just a few minutes before your food arrives. Each table holds a fairly decent selection of condiments, including picked soy bean sauce for pho, sriracha sauce, fish sauce and a fairly potent jar of minced chilis. 

Selection of condiments at Aobaba

First to arrive at the table was the portion of summer rolls (2 for €3). I liked the clever name, and these were substantial rolls with prawns and mint, bulked up with rice noodles and held together by translucent rice wrappers. These rolls contained contained significantly more rice noodles that I had experienced in previous versions, making them practically a meal in their own right. His Banh Mi (or Vietnamese baguette) was a substantial sandwich of pork, fresh crunchy salad and chilis and all for just €4. Yet again another meal. More importantly, the Banh Mi came in a wonder soft, yet crusty baguette.

Prawn & rice noodle summer rolls

Banh Mi - Vietnamese pork baguette

Last to arrive at the table was the Spicy Hue Style Noodles (Bun Bo Hue) with lashings of beansprouts, red onions, pork and noodles (€6). I'm not enough of an expert on Vietnamese noodle soup to know if this bowl qualified as pho, but it was soothing and comforting, with fragrant spice. Granted, the broth was not as rich as other versions I've enjoyed, but the additional touch of spice made up for that. And it cost just €6!!

Spicy Hue Style Noodles (Bun Bo Hue)

The total cost for our little meal was €13, and any individual dish would have easily sufficed as a lunch dish. The Banh Mi in particular stood out. A somewhat bizarre legacy of French colonialism in Vietnam, this baguette was stuffed with good things. I was fascinated by the bubble tea machine behind the counter which mechanically shakes the tea in a back and forth motion. Another day for sure.  For those that like their pastries, there is an intriguing looking selection of tarts and pastries at the counter. 

In short, Aobaba is tasty and exceptional value. Many venues claim to sell street food, but charge restaurant prices. Aobaba will go easy on your wallet, but not on your taste buds. 

Aobaba, 46A Capel Street, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)1 878 8555
URL: www.aobaba.com
Twitter: @aobabainfo

[Review] Zen, Rathmines, Dublin 6

When I start to write a review, I like to spend some time doing research. I look up the location's website, as well as reading any press reviews that I can locate. It's good to build up a picture of the location, which I can then draw on as I write up my own thoughts. This proved to be a bit of a challenge when it came to Zen Restaurant. Despite being in operation for over 20 years, it's quietly low-key and I found it hard to located older reviews.

Zen is located in an old church hall on Upper Rathmines Road, but this isn't really apparent from the outside. It's only when you step inside the main dining room that you feel the sense of space and reverence (pretty much standard issue in church buildings). A large golden disc is suspended on the main wall, reflecting gentle light over the plush red velvet seats. A backlit bar and softly-flaming fireplace add to the sense of warmth and comfort. 

The interior of Zen Chinese restaurant

Zen is a Sichuan restaurant, which is an important distinction to make. China is a very large country, divided into over 30 administrative regions, each of which has its own unique culture and cuisine. Sichuan cuisine can be characterised as being fresh, hot, spicy and fragrant drawing on flavours such as the Sichuan peppercorn, peanut and ginger. (If you want to read more about the magnificent cuisine of Sichuan, I'd thoroughly recommend picking up a copy of Fuchsia Dunlop's memoir Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper.) 

We were dining at Zen to celebrate the Chinese New Year, 2013being the Year of the Snake. Our plan was to enjoy the special celebratory menu, created by head chef Mr Shucheng Yu, priced at a very attractive €25 per head. As the lighting in the restaurant was low, I don't have good photos of the food, so here's the menu instead.

Pickled broccoli and mooli

Sweet and sour ribs

Braised trout with black bean

Chicken and peanut salad

***

Meat sung

***

Aubergine with marinated ground pork, ginger, garlic and pickled chilies

Braised whole bream in chili bean sauce

Lamb with ginger and scallion

To start, we received four little tasting bowls, each dish containing a different taste and texture. The braised trout stood out as the delicate fish was contrasted beautifully with salty bean. The pickled mooli was tangy and crunchy. Delicious meat sung came preassembled in lettuce leaf boats, standing proud on the plate.  Our three main dishes proved to be a feast. The whole bream was perfectly cooked and the flesh came away easily from the bone, even with chopsticks. As always, himself went straight for the cheek flesh before turning his attention to the main body. The aubergine and pork came in a slightly spicy, rich sauce with the aubergines literally melting in the mouth.

The set menu was excellent value for money, but there's also a wide selection of a la carte and even daily specials. Dishes like Pang Pang chicken (shreds of cold chicken breast in a spicy sauce) or stewed spicy fillet of beef with Chinese cabbage sound wonderful, though I'd draw the line at shredded lamb with celery. The devil vegetable has no place in civilised dining. I wouldn't even feed it to my dwarf hamsters!

Zen is bit of a hidden treasure. It's clearly got a strong customer base who know all about it, but don't shout about it. I knew about it but didn't realise until recently that it was a Sichuan restaurant, which is one of my favourite cuisines. On recent visits to Zen, I've been spitting out Sichuan peppercorns like a Gatling gun, which is high praise in my book, as too few Chinese restaurants in Ireland make use of this wonderful spice. But despite the use of Sichuan peppercorn, it's a bit funny that my only real complaint about Zen is that the food could be spicier.

Zen Restaurant, 89 Rathmines Road Upper, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 497 9428
URL: www.zenrestaurant.ie