Seagrass, Portobello, Dublin 2

One Saturday night a few weeks ago, we decided to go out for dinner. Regular readers of the blog might mutter that this isn't a surprise. We hadn't made any reservations, which is the height of folly in the current Dublin dining scene. Despite the economic pressures, good Dublin restaurants are experiencing high demand, and diners really need to reserve tables in advance. After a short hop on the bus, we found ourselves at Seagrass, Portobello, which appeared to have some free tables.

Seagrass was reasonably full when we wandered in at 8pm, but lots of diners appeared to have finished eating. This lead me to brilliantly deduce that there must be a popular Early Bird, confirmed later by the menu posted at the entrance. In another moment of Holmesian deduction (craft beer bottles on one table, bottles of cava on another), I realised that Seagrass must also operate a BYOB policy. In case I hadn't figured it out, droves of diners were arriving in with all kinds of plastic & brown paper bags. This appears to be one of the best kept secrets in Dublin. The most impressive thing about the BYOB policy at Seagrass is that they don't charge a corkage fee!

Chef Seán Drugan has a simple policy - offer great food and service at affordable prices while sourcing the best local and international produce. The Irish provenance was apparent in his starter of sauteed Kerry & Sligo mussels and wild clams with chili, herbs and lime (€9). The shellfish were perfectly cooked, served plump in the shells with a tasty broth that was both light and creamy.

Clams & Mussels

My slow braised beef terrine with tomato ketchup, mint cream and capers (€8.50) came served on a wooden board with a crazy shock of rocket leaves hiding the terrine. Digging underneath, I found what looked like a slice of set gravy. I have to admit that the mixture of cold & wet gravy just didn't work for me, despite the tasty tomato ketchup. The addition of mint cream and capers just added to the bizareness of the dish.

Slow braised beef terrine

At this point, we were at a fork in the road. His starter had been top notch, while mine caused the mind to boggle. I wondered aloud if we were dealing with a crazed genius chef. The score was tied, only the main course could decide for us. We had ordered the special, a lamb platter (€40 for two, or €25 for one). What arrived at the table was a thing of beauty, with immaculate presentation, worthy perhaps of Masterchef. Other diners even muttered appreciatively as it arrived at the table.

Shoulder of lamb platter with roast vegetables

The lamb was succulent and juicy lamb with the crusty flavoursome end bits also included, accompanied by hearty roast vegetables and sweet, sharp gravy. Our questions about the creativity of the chef were definitively answered as there was undoubtedly a cook of ability in the kitchen (if sometimes a little off-track). 

We finished up and left satisfied, but other diners lingered after us. Clearly there is no pressure from Seagrass staff to turf out customers in order to prepare the table for the next set of diners.  Seagrass was a refreshing discovery for us - excellent value (Early Bird offers 3 courses for just €21 all night Sun - Thurs, and 5-7pm Fri & Sat), relaxed service and a 100% free BYOB policy. The BYOB trend is surely set to grow this year, as wine sales in restaurants suffer due to over-priced wine lists. Well done to Seagrass for being ahead of the pack.

Seagrass is that rare elusive beast - the lesser spotted, good value, creative local bistro.

Addendum: Following our dinner, we organised to visit again with a party of six, where we dined on the Early Bird, and took advantage of the BYOB policy. Some of the quirkiness experienced on our first visit was still here, but there were zero complaints and lots of praise from our group for the meal. The fact that the meal cost only €150 (including some supplements and service charge) was an additional bonus.

Seagrass, South Richmond Street, Portobello, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 478 9595
URL: www.seagrassdublin.com
Twitter: @seagrassdublin

Jake's Wayback Burgers, Mebane, North Carolina

So I'm in the US again for 3 weeks of work. When I left work on the Friday evening of Week 1, I went out to Raleigh Durham Airport to pick up my reserverd hire car. It turns out that Americans don't understand "hire car", so I'm starting to learn to use "rental". Sheesh!

Anyway, I had a few drinks at the hotel bar on Friday night to celebrate the end of the week. Obviously, I suffered the inevitable consequences of over-indulgence on Saturday, and having to sit through a work-related conference call at 10am didn't help matters much. Still though, by midday, I was feeling much better, and a group of us headed off for some outlet shopping at Tanger Outlet Mall Centre in Mebane, North Carolina.

After 90 minutes of shopping, I needed to take a break and give my melting credit card some time to cool back down. There's a reasonable selection of dining options in the Tanger Mebane outlet including pizza and juices. However, Jake's Wayback Burgers caught my eye.

I ordered the Jake Cheeseburger ($5.59), which comes with a wide range of toppings, free of charge. I wanted to keep it simple as I'm not a fan of large amounts of cold salad in my burgers, so I simply added grilled onions & relish. A side of fries ($2.99) and a vanilla malt milkshake (3.99) completed my order.

Burger & fries at Jake's Wayback Burgers

My burger came simply served on a platter lined with greaseproof paper. It consisted of two thin, but very juicy and tender patties with good flavour. Fries came with skin still on, and the vanilla malt was excellent, and gave a great contrast to the salty fries. The burger simply melted in my mouth and into the soft burger bun. It reminded me of a cross between a gourmet high end burger and a burger from a famous burger chain. It was thin and easy to eat (like the burger chain version) but juicy and succulent (more like a gourmet burger). 

Later, I found the website for Jake's Wayback Burgers, which describes how the brand started as a single burger joint in 1991. It's grown since then, but still strives to deliver an authentic burger, with a home-cooked, old-fashioned feel (hence the Wayback title). All I can say is that I'm glad to have found a burger chain that provides a burger that is both great value and real.

Jake's Wayback Burgers, Unit 100 Tanger Mall Outlet Centre, 4000 Arrow Head Blvd., Mebane, North Carolina 27302
Tel: +1 919-563-2888
URL: http://waybackburgers.com/homepage/
Twitter: @waybackburgers

Brancott Estate Wine Tasting Masterclass (and a chance to win tickets)

I just received a press release in my inbox which may be of interest to some of you Dublin-based wine lovers out there (particularly if you are a Sauvignon Blanc drinker). Personally, I love Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs, which have really rocketed in popularity recently. Unfortunately, I can't attend on the evening, but maybe one of you can. Read on for more details...

On Tuesday, 31st January, Brancott Estate winemaker, Jamie Marfell will host a free wine tasting masterclass in the Odessa Club, Dublin. This will tie in with Marfell's visit to the New Zealand Wine Fair, where he will be promoting Brancott Estate's Sauvignon Blanc. Jamie will offer 30 guests his expert tips on wine as well as a unique insight into wine making in the Marlborough region having grown up on a farm overlooking the Brancott Valley and working for the brand for over 20 years.

On the evening Jamie will be joined by Irish wine expert Jean Smullen who will help him to guide the audience through the wine tasting process. Guests will be treated to a selection of delicious canapés and will have the opportunity to try five wines from the Brancott range; three from the classic range (Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Brancott Estate Pinot Grigio and Brancott Estate Pinot Noir), one wine from the Letter Series Range, Letter Series B and one of the newest varietals to the range, the sparkling Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc Brut NV. 

The Brancott Estate wine tasting masterclass hosted by Brancott Estate winemaker Jamie Marfell and Irish wine expert Jean Smullen takes place in Odessa Club on Tuesday 31^st January at 7.00pm. Tickets are free and guests can register for spaces by emailing brancottestateireland@gmail.com with their name, date of birth, contact details and address or they can find out more information through the Brancott Estate Facebook fan page (http://www.facebook.com/brancottestateireland).Tickets are allocated on a lottery basis and guests will be notified of attendance by Friday 27^th January. 

UPDATE: The draw is now closed. More information on Brancott Estate wines can be found on their Facebook page.

Skinflint, Dublin 2

It seems like Dublin restauranteur Joe Macken cannot sit still. First Crackbird appeared as a pop-up fried chicken restaurant in Crane Lane, then it closed, it reappeared on a somewhat more permanent basis on South William Street, and it will close again shortly. (You can read about my visit to the original Crackbird here). In the meantime, he has also launched Momma's Place in Temple Bar, and more lately, the grilled pizza joint Skinflint.

Skinflint occupies the original Crackbird premises on Crane Lane, but the interior has been cleaned up to give a more open space. Tables consist of old painted wooden doors, laid flat on trestles and topped with thick sheets of glass. The menu comes printed on small sheets of thin brown paper and mainly features a set of grilled pizzas named after the mothers of various staff members. A few small snax options are also available as well as more of Joe's now-trademark home-made lemonades.

The new Skinflint interior at Crane Lane

Everything here is meant to be cheap and cheerful (hence the name!), right down to the brown paper wrapped industrial rolls of tissue paper that take the place of napkins. (Given the stories I've heard of cloth napkin theft at Crackbird, the tissue paper must be a far more economical option). We kicked off with a plate of beetroot caviar - fantastically hued with thin strips of what I presume was pizza base to scoop it up (€4.24). Some salt was needed to bring this to life, but the earthy flavour of beetroot shone through.

Beetroot Caviar

Our friendly table companion

Skinflint's pizzas are made with Odlums Irish flour (no Tipo 00 here) and come served on long rectangular wooden boards. Our friendly server whipped out a mezzaluna and made quick work of chopping the pizzas into more manageable pieces. My Vonie pizza consisted of harissa, mozzarella, egg and serrano ham (€12.00). For me, the harissa did't quite work as a tomato substitute, but a drizzle of the chili-infused Firebee honey bought some sweetness to the pizza. Himself chose the Tess, a combination of pulled pork, fennel seeds, braised fennel and marscapone (€13.00). Although I'm not a fennel fan, this was a magnificent combination and I especially loved the creamy texture from the marscapone.

We dined courtesy of the popular #tweetseats offer that frequently runs in Crackbird and Skinflint. Simply follow @skinflintDUBLIN on Twitter and keep an eye open for the next #tweetseats offer. Secure yourself some places by following the rules, and you can enjoy one main course per person free of charge. Simples! We paid for extras, so one beetroot caviar and some drinks bought our total to €9.20. Unfortunately, espressos were not available on the day we dined, but filter coffee is priced at just €0.99 a cup.

It looks like Skinflint is yet another winning creation from the Joburger team. It's quick, tasty and cheerful. In addition to the pizza, there is one daily meatball special, which is promoted daily on Twitter. Skinflint doesn't have quite the same addictive quality that Crackbird possessed, but it does promote good Irish produce and the pizza sizes are more than generous. I don't know how long Skinflint will last (I'm sure Joe already has the next project planned), but I'd definitely recommend giving it a whirl while still around.

The bill at Skinflint

Skinflint, 19 Crane Lane, Dublin 2
Tel: No telephone
URL: skinflint.joburger.ie
Twitter: @skinflintDUBLIN

My Favourites from 2011

It's time for a little retrospective on 2011, courtesy of Stitch and Bear...

Personally, 2011 was the year that I got back into blogging. Prior to 2011, Stitch and Bear had been a mishmash of topics. But once I returned from my 13 month stint in Amsterdam, I decided to focus purely on food matters, and more specifically restaurant reviews. I put my technical hat on and purchased the www.stitchandbear.com domain as well as fixing my Google ranking issue. I made many new and interesting acquaintances on Twitter as well as attending a great food photography workshop hosted by Bord Bia.

I had the opportunity to eat out a lot this year, as well as try out lots of great Irish products. Here's a selection of my top picks.

Best Meal of 2011

A meal is more than just food. Service and atmosphere all contribute to a great meal, and the memories will linger with you long after the food has been digested. You don't have to spend a lot of money to get a great experience, but this year both of my my front-runners for 2011's best meal were Michelin star venues - Chapter One and Bon Appetit. Both meals were fantastic examples of moden Irish cooking, but they were also true experiences. Trying to choose one over the other was akin to splitting hairs, but I'm going to give the gong to Bon Appetit (all because I want an excuse to go back and try their downstairs tapas bar).

Best Ethnic Restaurant 2011

I am addicted to spicy food (as well as Twitter and Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc), and the Chinese cuisines of Hunan and Sichuan are my firm favourites. However, my best ethnic restaurant of 2011 has been Kinara Kitchen in Ranelagh.  This location delivers flavoursome and authentic Pakistani and Eastern Indian food in a beautifully decorated dining room. Top tip: Try the Champ Kanddhari (grilled spicy lamb chops).

Runner up: Mandarin House for some excellent, authentic and great value chinese food.

Best Restaurant 2011

I had no difficulty at all in choosing my winner in this category, despite the sad fact that it is located in Drogheda. Owners Jeni and Reuven have created a wonderful and magical emporium and I have no hesitation in naming the Eastern Seaboard Bar & Grill as my favourite venue of 2011. Going for a meal in this quirky but quietly sophisticated restaurant makes me very happy inside, while visits to the sister Brown Hound Bakery bring about a return to the wonder of childhood. The Eastern Seaboard is a shining beacon of creativity and excellence in a vibrant Irish dining scene.

Runners up: Bibi's Cafe for casual food and  The Fatted Calf, Glasson for amazing food in a pub.

Best Irish product 2011

The Irish craft beer industry has been growing strongly for some time now but my favourite Irish product of 2011 has been the Cork-made Stonewell Cider. This cider features a mix of fresh juices from different Irish apple varieties and the finished product has a wonderful apple taste. Drink this and you will not want to ever again pollute your mouth with mass producted ciders. This is currently only available in the Munster region due to limited quanitites, but plans are afoot for greater production in 2012.

Runners up: Great beers are coming from companies such as Eight Degrees Brewing, Metalman, Dungarvan Brewing Company and Trouble Brewing. (Is it coincidence I wonder that the first 3 companies all come from the same corner of Ireland?) Get yourself to one of the emerging pubs specialising in these beers (such as L Mulligan Grocer in Stoneybatter or the BierHaus in Cork), and you can have a fine night tasting the best of the Irish brewing industry.

Other highlights of 2011

• Redisovering Coolea mature cheese - this is a sweet, nutty and smooth Dutch-style cheese made since 1979 in the Cork Muskerry Gaeltacht (my home region). Purchase some in Sheridan's Cheesemongers (or your local store) and eat at room temperature. There is none better.
• A vanilla panna cotta with coffee & truffle ice-cream and espresso jelly at Mulberry Garden. I think this is a dessert that you'd either hate or love. I loved it. 
• Wonderful Irish whiskey from the Cooley Distillery. Until recently, this was the sole remaining independant distillery in Ireland, but their recent sale to Beam doesn't change the fact that Irish whiskey is having a resurgence in popularity. Try the Greenore 8 Year Single Grain or the Kilbeggan blended whiskey.
• A perennial local favourite of mine is the fantastic range of jams and relishes from Cúil Aodha based Folláin. I simply love their Exotic Fruit Relish, particularly in a grilled cheese toastie.
• The emergence of proper cocktails, firstly at Harry's on the Green (although it's prone to loud music) or more lately, at the Cliff Town House. My love affair with cocktails reached new heights with the tableside preparation of the perfect martini at the Sheen Falls Lodge.

Looking forward to 2012

My wish for 2012 is to see more variety and independance enter the Irish dining and drinking scene. We need establisments with more character and uniqueness. 

I think that the Celtic Tiger destroyed the pub culture in Dublin City centre. Too many beautiful and traditional bars had their guts ripped out to become late night bars which poured forth bad loud music and drunkenness. Let's turn down the music and get back to talking in our bars, preferably over a glass of Irish beer or cider.

O'Brien Chop House, Lismore, Co Waterford

Back in early December 2011, we found ourselves driving between Cork and Waterford. As we passed by Youghal, I saw roadsigns for Lismore, reminding me that I was yet to visit O'Brien Chop House (which has been open since 2009). Being a creature who demands immediate satisfaction in matters of food, we quickly decided that lunch in Lismore would be a very fine idea indeed.

Lismore is a beautiful town, sitting on the Blackwater river at the foot of the Knockmealdown mountains. Old shopfronts have been preserved and the entire town just breathes history and tradition. O'Brien Chop House is itself located on the premises of an old Victorian pub. As you push open the narrow wooden door, and walk across the tiled entrance, you will find yourself in a piece of old traditional Ireland. The original bar, shelving and snug have all been maintained, while the dining room extends out to the rear.

After ordering, we received selection of freshly baked breads served with a pat of Glenilen Farm butter. The breads were excellent, and it's really nice to see farmhouse butter starting to appear in different restaurants. The menu at O'Brien's regularly features a fizz and on our visit, spiced apple fizz was a nod to the season (€3.50). Elderflower fizz also features frequently, thanks to abundant crops which need to be used and frozen.

Selection of fresh breads & butter

Pork crackling popcorn

We ordered a portion of pork crackling popcorn as a snack while waiting for our mains. Little puffs of crackling came served in an old, battered pewter cup lightly dusted with paprika and sea salt (€2.50). To be honest, we found them somewhat compulsive eating.

We shared one of the daily special starters - Dry aged McGrath's beef steak tartare (€12.50). This was served with a stunning yellow duck egg yolk sitting on top. Once the yolk was broken and mixed through the meat, we was found the tartare to be wonderfully flavoursome with a smooth, dense texture. Delicious stuff.

Steak tartare with duck egg yolk

My main course was Ballyvolane House Saddleback pork chops, apple and onion jam with pan juices (€21.50), while he chose another special, pan-fried ray wing with lemon and caper butter (€19.90). Wonderful roast winter root vegetables and a portion of fries accompanied our mains. The ray wing was a simple piece of cooking with plenty of firm, meaty flesh and it caused us both to wonder why ray wing isn't featured more frequently on restaurant menus. The pork chops were substantial, with the pink hue that comes with really good pork. Despite all this, the roast root vegetables were the stars of the show. Piled high in a blue & white china bowl, they were warming and hearty with all the goodness of the roasting pan.

Ballyvolane House saddleback pork chop

Pan-fried ray wing

O'Brien Chop House sources local, seasonal produce, with an in-house garden kitchen. On the day we visited, the menu featured a special of whole, roast mallard, and I gained much amusement watching a fellow diner wield a knife to the whole duck. Although the duck may have lost the battle to the gamekeeper, it was definitely managing to defeat my neighbour. As we left through the old bar, I imagined myself back again, only this time in the evening, and with a local beer in hand. O'Brien Chop House draws you back, it's that kind of place.

O'Brien Chop House, Lismore, Co Waterford
Tel: +353 (0)58 53 810
URL: www.obrienchophouse.ie
Twitter: @obrienchophouse

Bar Lunch at the Cliff House Hotel

I reckon that I've driven over 1,300 km in the last 2.5 weeks. Although I live in Dublin, my newest client is based in Cork, and I've also been trekking between Cork and Waterford for family Christmas obligations. In the two and a half years I've owned my beloved car, I've nearly doubled the mileage on it and I've only slept in my own bed 2 nights out of the last 20. 

The funny thing is that I kind of like being out on the road. I love driving, and although I dislike being away from home, I also do some of my best work when I'm cooped up in hotel rooms, removed from the distractions of home. Still though, it's no substitute for your own bed and sofa.

Thanks to all this drving between Cork and Waterford, I've finally been able to visit two establishments that have long been on my wish list. Several weeks ago we enjoyed a pre-Christmas lunch in O'Brien's Chophouse in lovely Lismore, followed recently by lunch in the Bar at the Cliff House Hotel perched high on the cliffs over Ardmore Bay.

Although we arrived a little late in the afternoon, the Cliff House bar was doing a brisk trade with late-lunchers and cliff-walkers seeking some warmth after the icy winds. We got lucky and secured a table along the windows with a stunning view out over the sea. We initially put our eyes on the smoked haddock salad and crab claws as the front runners, but unfortunately they were not available, due to "supply chain issues". However, I consoled myself with an excellent Tinpot Hut Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (€9 per glass).

McGrath's Spiced Beef

We shared a starter of McGrath's spiced beef with hazelnuts, parsley "pesto", cheddar and rocket (€9.50). It came carpaccio style with a tender pink centre and generous drizzles of pesto. I loved this twist on a Cork classic, and it tasted even better on a slice of the fresh brown bread.

Helvick cod fillet

Slowly roasted pork belly

Initially himself had chosen a seafood and barley risotto, but clearly Sod's Law was ruling that day as the waitress returned from the kitchen to tell us that it was no longer available, so instead he chose the fillet of Helvick cod (€23.50). A substantial piece of dense meaty cod came served with a spinach crust, topped with toasted flaked almonds and a creamy white wine sauce. Slowly roasted belly pork came with butter fried onions and a rich gravy (€23.50) and we shared some lovely baby potatoes gratin and roasted root vegetables. 

Coffee with a tasty treat

We finished with two very good coffees which came with a little plate of tasty mini-cakes studded with fresh sharp raspberries. The coffeees were listed on our bill at €4.50 each, but I was later informed by Adriaan Bartels (General Manager at the Cliff House Hotel, and all round good guy) that we should have been offered a pot of coffee for two, which comes with a lower price tag.

I literally had to drag myself out of the chair in order to leave. A feeling of wellbeing and relaxation had crept through me as we watched the rain sweep across the bay followed by a shimmering rainbow. After all the Christmas rush and mayhem, this had been the short tonic I required.

The Cliff House Hotel, Middle Road, Ardmore, Co Waterford
Tel: +353 (0)24 87 800
URL: www.thecliffhousehotel.com
Twitter: @cliffhousehotel