[Review] Ristorante Romano, Capel Street, Dublin 1

A few months ago, I saw an article from Tom Doorley that caught my interest. It featured Ristorante Romano, an old school Italian restaurant on Dublin's Capel Street, a restaurant that I had passed by many times without ever taking any real notice. I trust Tom's opinion, and when he uses words like   "brilliant" and "best pasta", you pay attention.  so I made a mental note to visit whenever I was next in the vicinity.

I'm not going to beat about the bush when it comes to the interior. It's basic and it definitely hasn't seen any hipster influence. Owner Romano Morelli is a cycling lover and there's a bicycle frame hanging in the dining room, along with various cycling-themed photos. But that's as eccentric as it gets. Even the menus are simple laminated cards that show the wear and tear of having passed through many hands. 

But as you read the menu, you will find your eyebrows rising slightly. Prices are very definitely in the affordable range, and as far as I can see, the a la carte prices haven't changed since at least 2011. It gets even better in the wine section, where the most expensive bottle, a Chianti Classico, clocks in at a not-so-hefty €23, with most bottles listed at €18. A 500ml carafe of red or white house wine will set you back a mere €10. 

Bruschetta

[Blog] Most popular reviews of 2017

I always find it extremely interesting to load up Google Analytics, and analyse my blog statistics. I particularly like to do it at the end of every year with the specific objective of understanding what reviews were most interesting to my readers. Thankfully this year, your preferred spots coincided largely with with my favourite venues from 2017. So without further ado, here are 5 most popular restaurant reviews from 2017, plus one wildcard from yours truly.

5. Rachel's, Cork

In 2007, TV chef and Ballymaloe family member, Rachel Allen opened her eponymous restaurant and cocktail bar on Cork's Washington Street. Within a few months, Rachel's had garnered a selection of mixed reviews with an overall consensus that Cork had gained a smart new restaurant, with a strong focus on using local produce.

Rack of spring lamb with wild garlic and almond crumb

[Review] Klaw Poke, Capel Street, Dublin 1

Keeping on top of food trends isn't an easy thing to do in our Instagram world. And it's even harder to identify which trends will translate into long term market success. Here in Dublin, restaurateur and seafood lover Niall Sabongi has firmly gotten behind poke (pronounced POH-kay), a healthy Hawaiian staple that's been steadily growing in popularity across the globe. 

I first came across poke while watching Guy Fieri travel through Hawaii and I was intrigued by the simple, sushi-like concept of marinated chunks of raw fish served atop bowls of rice. Last year, while working in Amsterdam, I got the chance to try poke for the first time. And I've got to say that I liked it very much. It was both tasty and allowed me to pick and mix various poke ingredients to create varied, healthy lunches for myself. 

At Klaw Poke, Niall has created a selection of pre-defined poke bowls to help the uninitiated or undecided, or you can mix it up as you want. For my first visit, I opted for the Octopoke, a mix of grilled octopus, radish, macadamia nuts, samphire, salty pineapple and radish atop a mix of rice noodles and leaves, dressed with nam jim. Fresh, light and fragrant, it definitely ticked all the virtuous boxes. 

The octopoke bowl

[Review] Madina Desi, Mary Street, Dublin 1

Today's post will be a short one. But it does feature a little restaurant that I love to visit time and time again. It's affordable, tasty and authentic. And in a city full of Indian restaurants, Madina Desi is one of the very few that I know of which serves Indian street food dishes. 

My first favourite dish is the humble dosa. Hailing from the south of India, a dosa is a light, semi-crispy pancake made from a fermented batter, often using rice or black gram. It's considered to be a pretty healthy option due to the increased protein content and the extra vitamins produced by the fermentation. Health benefits aside, it's a satisfying snack, pulled apart piece by piece, dipping each piece into the accompanying sambar and coconut chutney (€7.95). 

The basic dosa served with sambar and coconut chutney

[Review] Mr Fox, Parnell Square West, Dublin 1

It's not often you walk into a restaurant to be greeted by a magnificent taxidermied fox, standing upright, holding a perplexed looking pheasant with a jaunty looking shotgun broke open over his shoulder. I never figured that Mr Fox was the kind who needed to resort to weaponry to catch his prey.

This fine fellow is part of the foxy decor at the smart Mr Fox, a basement restaurant located on Dublin's Northside. Previously occupied by Joy Beattie's Hot Stove Restaurant, this location is just a stone's throw away from the illustrious Chapter One. The closure of Hot Stove however tells us that adjacency to Irish cooking royalty is not enough. Will Mr Fox be smarter?

Mr Fox interior design

[Review] Old Town, Capel Street, Dublin 1

It's been a while since I recommended a Chinese restaurant on the blog. I'm often asked on Twitter to point friends in the direction of the latest authentic Chinese restaurant that I've uncovered in my non-ending quest for Chinese food. Therefore, in the spirit of sharing, I bring you Old Town located on Capel Street. Several Chinese restaurants have flared brightly at this location in the past, only to die out, but Old Town appears to be doing well so far. 

The cuisine at Old Town is Sichuan-influenced, but it's not hardcore, making it very approachable. The menu is the usual book of delicious looking photos and the occasional oddball translation from the native Chinese. However, I've found the staff to be very friendly, and always willing to make a recommendation, so don't be afraid to put yourself into their hands. The interior has gotten a needed refresh since the last occupants with straightforward wooden furniture, a good lick of paint and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling.

Interior at Old Town

[Review] Hanoi Hanoi, Capel Street, Dublin 1

UPDATE: Hanoi Hanoi is now closed and replaced by Asian Mix Food.

Sometimes you walk into a restaurant and you're practically blown away. Such was the case for me when I walked into Hanoi Hanoi for a post-cinema Sunday lunch. Hanoi Hanoi is the newest Vietnamese restaurant to open in Dublin and I'd been gradually hearing more and more about it on the grapevine. Therefore, it was decreed that Sunday cinema would be followed by Sunday lunch at Hanoi Hanoi. 

Located at the north end of Capel Street, the interior is a truly glorious mix of exposed brickwork and wooden floors. The seating is mainly individual tables with caramel brown leather seats, while there is also a larger booth for families or parties. It's most definitely not the look of your usual ethnic eatery. Even the bathrooms are fantastic.

The menu is split into different sections, covering a range of Vietnamese food options. You can choose pho (rice noodle soup), banh mi (baguette sandwiches with a range of fillings), hotpots, Vietnamese spring rolls and many other options. The next thing that grabs my attention are the prices, which are extremely attractive to say the least.

We start with a mixture of small dishes. Banh bao is a large steamed bun made from rice flour, filled with a mix of vermicelli, minced pork, mushrooms and an egg (€4.50). It's served with a simple dab of chili sauce, and to be honest we find it filling but a bit bland. A salad of papaya, peanuts, mint and dried beef, dressed with a sweet vinaigrette is wonderfully refreshing (€5.80). I could eat bowls of this every day. Cured fermented pork rolls sounded intriguing on the menu (I was imagining some variation of spring rolls), but it turns out to be a solid pate-type substance, served with another dab of the chili sauce (€6.50).  According to the menu, this is one of Vietnam's most popular snacks for parties. In my opinion, they can keep it, but instead hand over more of that salad.

Steamed rice bun with pork, mushrooms and egg

Papaya, beef and peanut salad

Cured fermented pork rolls

A dish of turmeric fish fillet is cooked table side, on a cute little burner. First into the wok are the marinated fish pieces, followed by veg and then rice noodles and peanuts (€11.90). It's all over in the space of a few minutes and with a final flourish of dill and lemon, the dish is served up. It was nice to find that mackerel was the fish of choice, and it stood up well to the fragrant flavours. My dish of braised pork belly comes slightly  caramelised in a little clay pot with some braising juices. At €7.50 it's great value for money, with plenty of meat, sticky rice, topped with crispy onion pieces and little shavings of shredded meat or fish. 

Vegetables going into the wok-fried fish dish

Turmeric fish fillet getting its final toss

Braised pork belly with sticky rice and onions

Overall, most of the food at Hanoi Hanoi was nicely middle of the road flavourwise. But this is something that I've found to be generally true about Vietnamese food. The flavours are more subtle than other Asian cuisines, thanks probably to the French influence on Vietnam (most evident in the famous banh mi baguette sandwich). Vietnamese food focuses on fresh ingredients, with lots of herbs and vegetables with sparing use of oil. 

History is a weird beast and I only recently learned that 400 "boat people" escaped communist Vietnam to settle in Ireland in the 1970s. In order to prevent them from becoming an enclosed community, the Vietnamese families were dispersed to the four corners of Ireland, where they settled and started a new life. Eventually though, many of the families made it back to Dublin, bringing their traditional cuisine with them.

It's taken the Vietnamese significantly longer to make an impact on the Dublin dining scene when compared to Chinese and Japanese restaurants. But with venues like Hanoi Hanoi, they're making quite the impact. Absolutely recommended for novice Vietnamese diners. 

Hanoi Hanoi, 100-102 Capel Street, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)1 878 8798
URL: www.facebook.com/Hanoidublin

[Review] Bread & Bones, Dublin 1

During the week, I fell ill with one of those 24 hour bugs that flashes through you. It disappears as quick as it arrives, but the aftermath leaves you feeling tired and drained. Over the course of the day, I drank lots of water and some tea, but I couldn't bring myself to look at food. Later in the day though, I was hungry and I wanted something that would help set me right. To be accurate, I felt in need of some pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) or something similar. 

Bread & Bones is a newly opened on Dublin's Northside, just a stone's throw from the Jervis Centre and Luas stop. Essentially it's a street food restaurant serving a fashionable mix of ramen soups, steamed buns (bao) and banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches). The noodle soups are served in homemade bone broths, hence the moniker Bread & Bones. 

A few small tables are lined up outside in the afternoon sunshine with diners happily tucking in. The inside of the restaurant is quieter, with several large mismatched tables scattered around and other smaller tables tucked into corners. It's a wide open space, with industrial height ceilings and a large open kitchen behind a high counter. The decor theme is manga rustic and the staff are warmly friendly without being off-putting. Posters advertising late evening dj sets make it clear that evening time is fun time at Bread & Bones. 

The open kitchen at Bread & Bones

Himself opted for the lunchtime offer of 3 bao (oriental steamed buns) for €15, or individually available at €5.50 each. The lunchtime menu offers a choose of 5 different fillings and we ended up with roasted pork belly, teriyaki chicken and panko crusted tiger prawn versions. The bao themselves are delicately soft, sweetly doughy and perfectly sized to be demolished in 3-4 mouthfuls. The addition of sauces such as chili mayo or hoisin sauce and tangy vegetable pickles adds crunch and flavour to the buns. Each one is a hit. 

Bao at Bread & Bones

Roasted pork belly boa with carrot pickle, peanuts and hoisin sauce

Bone broths may not look the prettiest at times, but they are gloriously restorative. When done well, they often have a little fat floating on the surface and are full of meaty flavour. Bread & Bones make their own broths and I choose the roasted pork belly soup to help sooth my insides (€10). A medium sized bowl came filled with rice noodles, soft slices of roasted pork belly, half of a soft boiled egg, bamboo and bright green scallions for some crunch. 

Even though I was still slightly under the weather, I shook in some generous amounts of chili oil and bright red Sriracha sauce, picked up my chopsticks and ladle and got stuck in. With each slurpful, I could feel myself improving, slowly returning to centre. It was just the right tonic for my ails. 

Pork belly noodle soup

Tap water is bought to our tables in large bottles, and a quick look at the short wine list reveals some very interesting, modern options. Any young hip restaurant isn't complete without a craft beer selection and Bread & Bones has a decent listing of Irish and international beers and ciders. 

Bread & Bones has hit the proverbial nail on the proverbial head. It's fun, casual, tasty and reasonably healthy. The large open space means that it's particularly child-friendly, but I found it to be everyone-friendly. The grand total for lunch, including a glass of crisp Picpoul de Pinet and a soft drink, came to a wallet-friendly €33.50. Mission accomplished.  

Bread & Bones, 7 Millennium Walkway, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)85 215 2408
URL: breadandbones.ie
Twitter: @Breadandbonesir
Instagram: @breadandbones

[Review] Jojos, Parnell Street, Dublin 1

According to the oracle that is Google, the restaurant at the centre of this week's review doesn't exist. Or at least, I can only find one other blog post which references it. No Facebook page or any anything else. The odds of a location not being found on Google is highly unlikely, so I can only assume that the error lies with me and I am somehow remembering Jojo's incorrectly.

I do know however, that I have eaten twice recently in Jojos, so unless I am transitioning to some parallel dimension when I walk down Parnell Street, it most definitely does exist, and it is most definitely very good. There's clearly been some investment in the interior with black marble topped tables and movable extraction flues to position over the traditional BBQs and hotspots. It's a far call from the first Chinese restaurants which opened on Parnell Street.

Over the course of our two visits, we got to try a good selection of dishes. We haven't yet tried the hotpot or BBQ options, which are very popular with the large groups of Asians I've seen in the restaurant. Leaf buns, filled with fresh shredded green vegetables were steamed and then pan-fried, but could have benefited from a side portion of dipping sauce. There's a wide range of spicy BBQ skewers available including chicken gizzards and hearts, but we stuck with the more familiar options of chicken and lamb, flavoured with chili and cumin seeds.

Leaf buns

Chicken and lamb BBQ skewers

I did ask if the Chongqing chicken could be prepared off the bone, only to be met by a resounding "NO". Much as I love this style of cooking, the thought of biting into a piece of chicken bone unnerves me. I ordered regardless and was rewarded by a dish of intensely deep-fried, crispy chicken pieces with a scattering of fermented beans, chills and other tasty additions. Even with careful inspection for bone pieces, we still cleared the plate. 

Cumin beef was tender with moist chunks of beef mixed through with cumin and coriander stalks. Deep-fried fish were topped with a richly flavoursome sauce of ginger, Chinese pork, fermented beans and dried mushrooms. Once the fish was all gone, I scooped tablespoons of this addictive sauce into my rice bowl to make sure that I got every last bit. 

A dish of pork fat and deep-fried tofu was questioned by our waiter who didn't think it would suit our western tastes. To be fair, he did this in a very nice way, but we were rewarded with a clay bowl of fatty belly pork pieces in a rich red broth with cabbage leaves and bean sprouts. 

Chongqing chicken (on the bone)

Cumin beef

Fried fish with Chinese pork and mushrooms

Fried green beans with minced pork

Pork fat and fried tofu

I sometimes find the Chinatown restaurants to be hit and miss. By this I mean that I will get wonderful, flavoursome authentic dishes on one visit, only to get the "Westernised', gloopy version on the next visit. I don't know why this happens, but it's so far, so very good at Jojos. All dishes that we had were under €10 in price and the portions are more than ample. The heat levels are not very high at Jojos either, which would suit people who would to explore authentic Chinese food.

The bill from our second visit to Jojos

Jojo's, Parnell Street, Dublin 1.

Contact details unknown!

[Review] The Morrison Grill, Ormond Quay, Dublin 1

A while back the Morrison Hotel on Ormond Quay underwent a major makeover and moved under the umbrella of the Doubletree by Hilton brand. One of the signature features of the Doubletree brand is receiving a freshly baked cookie upon checkin. We stayed recently at the Doubletree in Amsterdam and the glorious smell of those cookies nearly droze me into a frenzy due to the cruelness of not eating wheat. Colleagues who have stayed at the Morrison assure me that cookies are available here also.

For those of you who may remember the old layout, the lobby area has changed significantly. It's now a single open space, subdivided into dining & drinking areas. To the left is the bar, Quay 14, with a cocktail list full of Dublin and Irish song-themed drinks. And to the right is the Morrison Grill, a bright and relaxed dining space, with a menu that is described as "refined rustic". The kitchen is home to a Josper Grill, which is a combined charcoal grill and oven that can reach temperatures of 500C. It's the most macho sounding oven I've ever come across. Suck on that standard fan oven.

The place settings are suitably retro, and they don't look out of place in the sleek and hip lobby. There is a set lunch menu with 2 courses for €20 or 3 for €25. However, none of the options jumped out at men (chicken, salmon or gnocchi for mains), so I chose from the à la carte menu. In addition, as it's a Friday and I have the day off, I also choose a Final Straw cocktail, which is a mix of bison grass vodka, vermouth, apple juice and prosecco (€9.50). 

Retro style place setting at the Morrison Grill

A cooling Final Straw cocktail

My starter of Richard Doyle's potted pork comes in an elaborate arrangement of glass jar, toast rack, mini cast iron skillet and a wooden board (€7.50). This must be a trial of strength and balance for the waiting staff and personally, I could have done without the toast rack which tore a slice when I attempted to extract one from its grip. 

As a big fan of all things porcine, I liked the potted pork very much. The jar was full to the brim and could easily act as a main meal on its own, especially when bulked out with the thick slices of bread and accompanying homemade pickled vegetables. Thankfully, it was served cool, as opposed to cold, which gave the dense meaty strands a chance to display their flavour. Blobs of mustard and apple sauce add some bite and zing and I could have done with more of them.

Richard Doyle's potted pork 

Homemade pickled veg to accompany the potted pork

And then it was time for the star attraction. As you'd expect in a restaurant with such a manly grill, there are lots of grilled meats on offer. It would feel a crime to order something not cooked in the searing magnificence of the Josper grill. My choice is the 9oz ribeye, dry aged on the bone for 28 days and served with mixed leaves and sumo chips (which I ask to be replaced with skinny fries) and a choice of sauce (€25). Fries and steak demand béarnaise, so that is what I order. 

Other steak options range from a flat iron (€22) to the "I will never understand why anyone orders it" fillet steak (€29). A 16oz bone-in tomahawk ribeye steak for two weighs in at €45, making it a good choice for carnivorous couples or bromance buddies. First impressions of my ribeye were solid, with a good char in evidence. It came medium rare, as ordered, and I tucked in with the joy that a good steak creates. The fries were lacklustre, but the peppery dressed salad leaves were a good addition.

9oz ribeye steak

Chef John O'Leary hails from Kerry, and when I heard his accent I was whisked home, close to the Cork-Kerry bounds. John is a fan of hearty, earthy Irish dishes and the Morrison Grill serves brown bread made using his grandmother's recipe. He has a big commitment to sourcing Irish produce, with regular seasonal updates to the menus. Hotel restaurants can be grim places at times, and it really is wonderful to see such a venue stepping up to the mark by offering Irish, seasonal produce.

I very much enjoyed my lunch at the Morrison, even if I did feel that everyone who passed through the lobby was staring into my plate. A little more privacy for the diners might not be a bad idea. The food here is sure to be enjoyed by the American and foreign guests that the Doubletree brand will attract, hopefully helping raise the profile of Irish cooking. 

The Morrison Grill, The Morrison Hotel, Ormond Quay, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)1 887 2400
URL: www.morrisonhotel.ie/en/morrison-grill.html
Twitter: @MorrisonGrill and @morrisondublin

[Event] Franciscan Well Jameson-Aged Stout Launch at WJ Kavanagh's

Recently, I attended the Dublin launch of the Franciscan Well's Jameson-Aged Stout, which was held in the perfectly suited location of W.J. Kavanagh's. Being a Cork native, I am of course immensely biased in favour of this beer, which has a double Cork heritage. Firstly, it is made by the Franciscan Well (home of many an undergraduate and postgraduate night out) and secondly, it is finished in casks provided by the Jameson Distillery, another fine Cork enterprise. This special brew was developed by Shane Long, founder of the Franciscan Well, using casks handpicked by Jameson's Master of Whiskey Science, Dave Quinn.

Aging beer and stout in whiskey and spirit cases has been around for a while, but it's gaining in popularity. So what happens when Franciscan Well stout and Jameson casks meet? I found the result to be smooth and rich, with definite coffee notes and whiskey warmth and just a little touch of vanilla and caramel from the casks. Plus the ABV weighs in at 7.8% thanks to the alcohol that is reabsorbed from the barrel walls. According to Long & Quinn, it took a few trial efforts before arriving at the final decision to use American oak second fill whiskey casks. "We couldn't wait to test the final result and it has truly surpassed our expectations".

The Franciscan Well Stout (Jameson Cask) comes in a flip-top 750ml bottle, each individually numbered. Given that it's alcohol content is a little higher than normal, it's perfect for sharing. 

To celebrate the launch, the team at W.J. Kavanagh's assembled a special menu to complement the stout. We started with a welcome cocktail of Jameson Select Reserve, homemade ginger beer, grapefruit juice with a finishing touch of grapefruit & oak smoked sea salt. A selection of canapés gave us a range of Irish flavours, with my personal favourite being the incredibly candied, sweet and savoury homemade bacon jam. I could have eaten jars of that bacon jam. As I don't eat wheat, I found myself licking the beetroot and bacon jam off the bases, before then being faced with the dilemma of where to abandon them.

Canapés 

Homemade beetroot pesto, Fivemiletown goat's cheese on garlic croutes with rocket cress

Homemade free-frange bacon jam, vanilla infused sugar on Sheridan's brown bread cracker

Organic black pudding wontons, apple cider & soy dipping sauce

***

Starter

Oysters, cherry puree, lightly pickled shallots and fresh cherries

***

Mains

Pulled slow braised beef short rib, roasted beetroot puree, Crozier blue cheese croquette and "lovely gravy"

or

Marinated carmelised cauliflower cutlet, roasted beetroot puree, Crozier blue cheese croquette, twice-cooked sweet potato chips and horseradish mayo

***

Dessert

Dark chocolate cake, blackberries, cherries, barley malt, chicory & rye cream with sea salt crumbs

Beetroot pesto canapés (top) with cherry oysters (bottom)

Slow cooked, shredded beef short rib topped with leeks was superb against the rich stout. I did like the mix of Crozier blue cheese and potato, but felt that the patty we received had mutated in size past the croquette stage and was heading towards the Godzilla stage. One of the table bravely chose the vegetarian option (controversial in such a carnivore environment), but we were all impressed with how the thick cauliflower slice maintained texture and crunch.

The dark chocolate cake was something really special, with the rich dark chocolate bumping nicely against the not-so-sweet flavours of the rye and malt cream, along with stewed blackberry and fresh cherry. And once again, the dark chocolate and savoury flavours teamed well with the Franciscan Well stout.

Pulled braised beef shortrib with potato croquette

Dark chocolate cake with blackberry and cherry

Finally, some useful advice from the ladies

For more information on the Franciscan Well range, visit www.facebook.com/craftcollection or www.facebook.com/franciscanwell, or @CraftBeerIE and @FranciscanWell. Further information on Jameson can be found at www.jamesonwhiskey.com or www.irishdistillers.com.

W.J. Kavanagh's, 4-5 Dorset Street, Dublin 1

Tel: +353 (0)1 873 0990

URL: www.wjkavanaghs.com

Twitter: @WJKavanaghs

Stitch and Bear would like to thank the Franciscan Well, Jameson, W.J. Kavanagh's and Slattery Communications for their hospitality. All opinions remain my own. 

[Review] M&L Szechaun Restaurant, Cathedral Street, Dublin 1

Dear readers, I have a confession to make. It has been barely more than 12 hours since my last Chinese meal and I already crave more. As I sit here, it is a blustery yet stunningly beautiful Sunday morning in Dublin's fair city. Clouds are scurrying across an azure sky and surely it is a time to think about Eggs Benedict or perhaps a proper fry. However, in my head I am dreaming of streamed fish with fragrant ginger and garlic, or perhaps lip-tingling Sichuan peppers dotted throughout a dish of crispy chicken and peanuts. 

I have several favourite Chinese restaurants in Dublin, which I alternate through depending on my moods and desires. All have featured on this blog, some more than once. In fact, this is a second mention for the M&L Szechuan Restaurant, over 3 years since I first mentioned it. The M&L Szechuan restaurant lies in the shadow of St. Mary's Pro Cathedral, a mere hop and a skip from O'Connell Street. Despite the solemn surroundings, M&L is a vibrant spot, often packed and full of bright flavours and aromas. As the name suggests, the main dishes originate from Szechuan province, famous for its use of spicy and pungent flavours. Inside, the restaurant is cosily lit and the staff are welcoming. The M&L used to suffer from the problem of having dreary English and exotic Chinese menus, but things have improved and there are now many authentic offerings on the English menu. 

Deep-fried seabass with chili garlic garlic sauce came on the bone (€13.50) with a bright flash of spring onions. The sweetness of the sauce had been tempered with garlic, resulting in a sticky sauce in which to dip the delicate white flesh.  Stir-fried dry beef with hot and spicy taste (€10.50) was flavoured with cumin and fermented beans and finished with sugar, resulting in a carmelised flavour to balance the salty & spicy flavours. It was also a visually pretty dish with dark red dried chills and bright green from fresh coriander and spring onion. 

Deep fried seabass with chili garlic sauce

We managed to go off-piste when we persuaded our waiter to provide a dish of aubergine and pork from the Chinese menu. It didn't look the most appealing when it arrived but it was melt in the mouth good. Gently sweet and salty, the aubergine had nearly completely disappeared and the whole dish was a lovely counterpoint to spicy beef. Glasses of Tsingtao rice beer were cold and refreshing and great value at €3 a bottle. 

Stir-fried dry beef, Tsingtao beer and aubergine & pork

A dish of deep-fried crispy chicken and peanuts was flavoured with chili (€10.50) and the fearsome Sichuan peppercorn. Little pieces of chicken skin had escaped from the flesh and had been fried separately. They literally exploded with flavour in the mouth and I searched throughout the entire plate, picking out all these little morsels. Dark red dried chilis make this dish moderately spicy, but the heat factor is amplified if you manage to pick up some of the lurking peppercorns (which confusingly aren't actually peppercorns, but in fact berries).

Shredded pork in hot and sour sauce and chicken with chili and peanuts

The climate of Sichuan province tends to dampness (not unlike our own home) and therefore the cuisine features salty and spicy flavours to ward off foul humours. Perhaps this explains why I always feel virtuously healthy after a Sichuan meal, despite the fact that I will have eaten several courses, and practically licked every drop of garlicky oil off the plates. Or perhaps its the fact that a typical meal of 3 courses, several beers and rice will typically come to under €40.

If you like Chinese food but have been nervous about trying more authentic dishes, then M&L could well be the spot for you. Each dish has a wonderful balance of sweet, salty, sour and spicy flavours, and the welcoming staff will help you order something suited to your tastes.  Personally, I intend to keep going until I crack the elusive all-Chinese menu. Soft-shell crabs cooked in egg yolk, you have been warned.

M&L Szechuan Restaurant, 13-14 Cathedral Street, Dublin 1

Tel:+353 (0)1 874 8038

URL: www.mlchineserestaurant.com

Twitter: @MlChinese

[Review] The Hot Stove Restaurant, Parnell Square West, Dublin 1

I made our reservation for newly opened Hot Stove Restaurant without realising that it was the Saturday before St. Patrick's Day. When I copped the possible impact of being in Dublin city centre on the weekend of the national day of debauchery, I nearly cancelled. But when you can take a bus direct from your house straight to Parnell Square West, then running the gauntlet of paddywhackery doesn't seem so bad. 

Long-established Michelin-starred restaurant Chapter One is just around the proverbial corner, and just like its older neighbour, Hot Stove is another finely designed basement restaurant. A bar area with seating is to the left upon entering, while two dining rooms open up to the right. The eponymous stove sits centred in the far wall of first dining room, while the wonderful tiled floor and orate radiators emphasise the period origins of the building. These features are somewhat at odds with the crisp white linen and ultra-sleek comfortable leather chairs. But I'm always a sucker for old buildings and I like the mixture. 

We were seated by co-owner Simon Keegan in the second dining room at the sole table with a view onto the rear walled garden area. In fact we were the sole diners in the room for a while, which meant that we received quite some amount of attention from the very attentive waiters. As we were dining early, we had a choice of the Early Bird menu but the well-priced a la carte menu won out. I was charmed by the idea of home-churned butter made with Wexford farm cream, sourced close to the home of chef Joy Beattie, but unfortunately it didn't have enough salty buttery goodness for me. An amuse bouche of bacon-y soup wass cleverly served in a glass espresso cup and set a good tone. 

Beetroot and butternut tasting

Stuffed chicken wing

My starter of beetroot and butternut tasting plate with honey marscapone (€7) and sorrel was a sublime experience, showcasing the skills of a very deft chef. It was a symmetrical balance of light pickles, purees and roasted pieces, all married together by the divine little blobs of cheese. His stuffed chicken wing with artichoke dressing and courgette dressing (€8) was yet another example of how a humble ingredient can be elevated to something special.

Roast pork fillet and belly

Pan-fried ray wing

My main course featured pork two ways, a beautifully cooked fillet, alongside a small square of pressed belly and a shard of perfect pork crackling (€17). Fresh piquant choucroute and Boulangere potatoes provided contrasting textures and flavours in a hearty, warming plate. We had scuffled somewhat over who would order the ray wing, with Himself winning out. It came served on red chard, along with a lime mash and brown butter (€16). This magnificently meaty fish fell easily into shreds, with bite coming from the stripes of tangy sweet lime sauce. 

There was a definite upsell on the sides, but when duck fat chips (€5) and oh-so-buttery crushed Jerusalem artichokes (€3.50) are this good, it's hard to refuse. I could nearly have sworn that the chips came from a proper Cork chipper. (Sorry Dubliners, Cork has the best chips). 

Lemon mousse with pistachio ice-cream

Passionfruit layered pavlova

Desserts were good, with a tangy lime mousse for me (€7) and a rather delicious passionfruit layered pavlova (€7) for him. Both were accompanied by scoops of Wexford ice-cream, another sign where the loyalty of chef Beattie lies. Throughout dinner, we drank a Pazo de Barrantes albariño (€32), with an indulgent glass of muscat Baumés de Venise (€7) accompanying dessert. Our waiters were extremely attentive throughout the meal, checking in on us with annoying frequency. We saw a lot of different faces, but to give credit, they were all unfailingly pleasant and helpful. Perhaps they just need to relax a little and lose the new restaurant jitters. 

The most wonderful thing about Hot Stove is that the final bill only just cleared €100. Food of this dexterity and skill can, and does, command higher prices in Dublin. It's a pleasure to eat the food of Chef Joy Beattie, who must surely be one of the foremost female chefs in Ireland. As Himself pointed out, we could have paid a lot more for a similar meal just around the aforementioned corner. 

As we leave, I can only offer the highest compliment that I possess, "We will be back".

The Hot Stove Restaurant, Parnell Square West, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)1 874 7778
URL: www.thehotstoverestaurant.com
Twitter: @HotStoveRest

[Review] Aobaba, Capel Street, Dublin 1

Back in December, I wrote about a new Vietnamese pho restaurant that had opened on Parnell Street.  Since then, that location has proved extremely popular with Dublin diners, proving the Kevin Costner adage that if you build it, they will come. Alongside this venue, I'd heard about a second Vietnamese eatery on Capel Street. Aobaba is a small cafe painted in a palette of pastel colours, which offers a selection of Vietnamese street food along with milk and bubble teas. You order and pay at the counter, take your seat and wait just a few minutes before your food arrives. Each table holds a fairly decent selection of condiments, including picked soy bean sauce for pho, sriracha sauce, fish sauce and a fairly potent jar of minced chilis. 

Selection of condiments at Aobaba

First to arrive at the table was the portion of summer rolls (2 for €3). I liked the clever name, and these were substantial rolls with prawns and mint, bulked up with rice noodles and held together by translucent rice wrappers. These rolls contained contained significantly more rice noodles that I had experienced in previous versions, making them practically a meal in their own right. His Banh Mi (or Vietnamese baguette) was a substantial sandwich of pork, fresh crunchy salad and chilis and all for just €4. Yet again another meal. More importantly, the Banh Mi came in a wonder soft, yet crusty baguette.

Prawn & rice noodle summer rolls

Banh Mi - Vietnamese pork baguette

Last to arrive at the table was the Spicy Hue Style Noodles (Bun Bo Hue) with lashings of beansprouts, red onions, pork and noodles (€6). I'm not enough of an expert on Vietnamese noodle soup to know if this bowl qualified as pho, but it was soothing and comforting, with fragrant spice. Granted, the broth was not as rich as other versions I've enjoyed, but the additional touch of spice made up for that. And it cost just €6!!

Spicy Hue Style Noodles (Bun Bo Hue)

The total cost for our little meal was €13, and any individual dish would have easily sufficed as a lunch dish. The Banh Mi in particular stood out. A somewhat bizarre legacy of French colonialism in Vietnam, this baguette was stuffed with good things. I was fascinated by the bubble tea machine behind the counter which mechanically shakes the tea in a back and forth motion. Another day for sure.  For those that like their pastries, there is an intriguing looking selection of tarts and pastries at the counter. 

In short, Aobaba is tasty and exceptional value. Many venues claim to sell street food, but charge restaurant prices. Aobaba will go easy on your wallet, but not on your taste buds. 

Aobaba, 46A Capel Street, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)1 878 8555
URL: www.aobaba.com
Twitter: @aobabainfo