[Review] The Legal Eagle, Chancery Place, Dublin 7

The Legal Eagle pub on Chancery Place, next to the historic Four Courts and beloved of solicitors, barristers and court attendees, had stood empty since 2012. It was acquired by Brian Montague and his business parter Elaine Murphy in 2014, but work on their other projects The Woollen Mills and The Washerwoman took precedence, delaying the opening until just recently. Was it worth the wait?

Every part of the overhauled Legal Eagle speaks in muted but confident tones. (In fact, just like the kind of solicitor or barrister you want to represent you should you ever find yourself appearing before the courts). A solemn and decorous dark green exterior with touches of gilding gives way to the spruced up interior. The general layout is true to the original, but now smart high backed leather stools line up alongside the bar, while exposed red brickwork and assorted copper vessels gently warm the walls. It's smart and modern, yet feels so comfortable and barlike.

Homemade pickled eggs

[Review] East Side Tavern, Leeson Street, Dublin 2

It's time for a Christmas review, and in the season of short days and long nights, what's more appropriate than Dublin's  newest gastropub? I'd been hearing quiet words about this new dining venture for the past few months, with the doors to the East Side Tavern finally opening in late November.  

The interior at Easat Side Taven (formerly the Tavern on the Green) has undergone a seismic shift. An eye-catching backlit tiered bar showcases an extensive collection of whiskeys and other spirits, while blackboards list a selection of cocktails and drinks. The atmosphere here is casual comfort with leather upholstered seats, exposed brickwork and a roaring fire in the open fireplace. Decor accents are provided by brass pieces and salvaged timber, making the interior feel both extremely contemporary and aged. Whoever was responsible for the design and fit out got this one spot on. 

The tiered bar at East Side Tavern

The comfortable interior at East Side Tavern

Niall O'Sullivan (formerly of Isabel's) is the Head Chef in the kitchen, and the menu bears his distinctive stamp. I dined twice during the month of December, once off the Express Lunch menu, while my other visit was from the a la carte lunch menu. I love the concept of the Express Lunch which offers two courses for €14 (or €16 with dessert). It's a great option for a business lunch or catchup with friends. After all, there are more than enough offices with well-paid workers in the vicinity to sustain this concept.

The Express Lunch starters are a choice of soup or salad, each of which changes regularly and is served quickly, while the main courses are delivered from the kitchen when ready. In our case, soup was a smooth butternut squash soup, with a salad of beetroot, whipped goats cheese and leaves. The portions aren't huge, but really, they're meant to satisfy you while waiting for the main course. Slow braised should of lamb ragu was served in a light broth with pillowy gnocchi and parmesan shavings. Beer battered fresh cod was served on a board, along with a freeform log pile of crispy triple cooked chips, tartar sauce and a delectable frozen pea mousse.

Beer battered fish and chips

Lamb ragu with gnocchi

On another visit, I chose the Fish of the Day, which was chargrilled salmon with Jerusalem artichoke risotto. I love it when salmon is served with a crispy skin, as was the case here, but the artichoke risotto was the true star on the plate. The earthy sweetness of the artichoke, along with naturally sweet parsnip crisps combined so well with the burnt notes of the chargrilled salmon. Dessert was a set custard flavoured with woodruff (also knowns as Wild Baby's Breath), imparting a sweet almost perfumed note. Apple sorbet and sorrel granita provided balance and crisp textures to the luxurious custard. 

Chargrilled salmon with Jerusalem artichoke risotto

Woodruff set custard

Obviously the East Side Tavern works really well as a restaurant, but how does it fare as a pub? Maybe it was the Christmas decorations and the warm lighting, but I didn't want to leave after our Express Lunch. Instead I wanted to settle in for the afternoon,with some nice drinks and company, and watch the daylight fade to winter dusk. 

For me, the East Side Tavern feels like the next evolution of the gastropub, smoothly combining the relaxed atmosphere of a pub with the refined food of a fine restaurant. Are you ready to cross over to the East Side?

East Side Tavern, 104-105 Leeson Street Lower, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 678 9529
URL: www.eastsidetavern.ie
Twitter: @eaststavern

[Review] Ashtons, Clonskeagh Rd, Dublin 14

When it comes to eating out, I have a mistrust of certain phrases. Words like "artisan" and "homemade" have long since lost any connotations of honesty or rusticity, while "slathered" brings to mind images of medicinal ointment covering an infected wound. Also, you really don't want to get me started on the not-so-cute words that we have adopted from not-very-literate children ("yummy', "noms" and so on). 

The moniker "gastropub" is one I tend to view with skepticism. Some Irish venues have been quick to adopt the label, but not so fast to up their menu to match. Indeed, the smell of carvery lunch still lingers lovingly in the corners and crannies of some venues. But there are some shining stars in the Irish gastropub category, including Ashton's of Clonskeagh, snugly located on the banks of the River Dodder. During the summer, it's worth sitting outside with a cold drink and enjoy this little enclave on the outskirts of busy Ranelagh.

Inside, the interior is clean and friendly with a mix of traditional bar seating and restaurant tables. The menu at Ashton's is warm and welcoming. In fact, with braised this and slow-cooked that, it's definitely food for cold winter days and trips to the Aviva. Unusually we both ordered the same starter, a delicious Goatsbridge smoked trout and super fresh, sweet crabmeat pot, served with sourdough toast (€8). It was a very generous portion, possibly a light lunch in its own right.

Goatsbridge smoked trout and crab pot

My main of confit pork belly and braised neck, courtesy of Tullamore-based Pigs on the Green, was richly flavoursome, but in the end I had to admit defeat and pass the plate to Himself's brother. The Brother liked it immensely, declaring it to be the best he'd eaten. Across the table, pan-fried Clare Island salmon was perched atop a wonderfully cheesy risotto (made with the legendary Irish Gubbeen cheese). A little handful of toasted hazelnuts finished off this quirky but excellent dish (€18).

Confit pork belly and braised pork neck

Clare Island salmon with Gubbeen cheese and chorizo risotto

We were served dinner at low tables, comfortably seated on deep black leather sofas. After finishing our mains, we inexplicably found it quite hard to get up. Faced with such effort, we took refuge in the dessert menu. A lightly flavoured lime and raspberry pannacotta was decorated with perfect pieces of honeycomb and meringue (€6), while a rich 70% chocolate tart with raspberries suited Mrs. H down to a tee (€7).

Lime and raspberry pannacotta with meringue and honeycomb

Dark chocolate tart with raspberries, espresso and white chocolate cream

Ashton's is a real deal gastropub, with sister locations in Kill (The Dew Drop Inn) and Kildare (Harte's of Kildare). They've fully embraced the craft beer movement with a decent selection on tap and in bottle. plus there's also a gin tasting menu for those who like something stronger.  I might have joked earlier about carveries, but the lunchtime carvery at Ashton's is one of the best I've seen with a tempting selection of roasts, pies and other dishes. It really does set a standard. 

Sometimes I mention Ashton's as a dining option to friends, and I'm truly surprised by the number that haven't been there. It's been a Dublin landmark for quite a while, and when things are around for a long time, they tend to be overlooked. But the large crowd of Ashton regulars testify to the fine food and drink to be found here (plus there are plenty of TVs for sports). It doesn't really matter if you're a craft beer fan or a die-hard carvery diner. Ashton's does it all superbly. 

Ashtons, 11 Vergemount, Clonskeagh Road, Dublin 14
Tel: +353 (0)1 283 0045
URL: www.ashtonsgastropub.ie
Twitter: @BarAshtons

[Review] The Taphouse, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

I'm firmly of the opinion that the Celtic Tiger years ruined the Irish pub. Too many good traditional pubs were gutted and turned into identikit late-night bars with crap music and ride-you-sideways pricing. To be fair, there were many awful pubs out there too, some of which had toilets that were barely above the outside shed standard. But overall, somewhere along the way, we forgot about the pub experience.

Personally, I'm still coming to terms with the mauling handed out to the Oval in Cork, which was gentrified and velvet-curtained into the style preferred by Benny McCabe. The old Oval had a ceiling patinaed from years of tobacco smoke, a minidisc player with eclectic music, tables made from Singer sewing machines and you occasionally had to use a hard-rimmed keg as a seat when the pub was busy. Most importantly, it had character. (To be clear though, I like what McCabe has done in Cork, where he has nurtured much vibrancy in the city's night life. I just terribly miss the old Oval).

In the last few years, I've also become convinced that the Americans have nailed the art of the modern pub. While travelling around the US, both for work and personal reasons, I have drank and eaten in many venues that had a good selection of local beers, easy to eat but high quality bar food and a general all-round good atmosphere. So it's no surprise then to me that Irish-born, US businessman David Kelly is keen to bring that recipe for success back to Ireland.

Whiskey sour

Kelly is a partner in the US-based Rí Rá pub group and together with his partners, he has purchased and renovated the former Russell's of Ranelagh. Given how Ranelagh has boomed, even during the downturn, something must have been very wrong for Russell's to close. The interior, which always seemed cold and sterile to me before, now feels more like a gentleman's club with reclaimed parquet flooring, leather seating, dark wood and bookshelf-lined walls. It's dark but warmly lit, and immediately feels comfortable. The bar is fitted out with multiple TVs and screens for the sports fans, but the screen placement is quite clever as the end result feels more like a sitting room than a sports bar.

More importantly, the Taphouse has an inviting menu. It's the kind of food that suits drinking with a focus on smaller dishes which are high in flavour. On our second visit, Himself went for the fish tacos (€12) having tried the assorted sliders (€4 each or 3 for €10) on our first visit. Three tacos packed with chunks of seared fish and fresh vegetables came in a little holder,  while my ribs (€9) were accompanied with a fresh red cabbage slaw. Two large buckets of regular fries and sweet potato fries (€3 each) came with a malt vinegar mayo. The soft ribs were coated in that kind of generic barbecue sauce which is tasty enough not to offend anyone, while the slaw provided savoury crunch. 

Fish tacos

Regular and sweet potato fries

Ribs with slaw

American influences are also present in the service, which is efficient throughout. Many of the floor staff sport earpieces or walkie-talkies, allowing them to stay in communication even when the noise is at a peak. And boy, ever since the January paychecks came out, it has been busy. 

The Taphouse is most definitely a modern pub. It dares to sell beer in non-traditional sizes (i.e. not a pint!) and has a good selection of Irish craft beers, all displayed on chalkboards behind the bar. Infused spirits are used in house special cocktails, with a decent selection of simpler classic cocktails also on offer. It's all designed so that the well-trained staff can run the bar without needing to be experts. Take out 'growlers', which are very common in the US, allow beer fans to take their favourite drink home in a reusable container.

The Taphouse has hit a sweet spot. It understands what the market wants and it delivers it. More publicans could take note of this.

The Taphouse, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 491 3436
URL: htwww.facebook.com/taphousedublin
Twitter: @TapHouseDublin

The Wild Boar Pub, Stepaside, Dublin 18

Writing about restaurants is a pretty tough job. It takes some dedication, and a lot of my weekends involve planning for both lunch and dinner. Mind you, food blogging is not as hard as my real job, which has me visiting the US for yet another 3 weeks. It's tough being away from home and family for 3 weeks, compounded by the fact that an ocean separates you. The plus side, as a food blogger is getting to eat at a whole new range of restaurants.

Tonight, I found myself at the Cheesecake Factory. Love it, or hate it, the simple fact is that they do turn out decent, tasty food. Tonight, I ordered the beef burger, topped with sautéed mushrooms and melted cheese. Sounds simple, but the beef was juicy and tasty, cooked medium rare as requested, and those sautéed mushrooms turned out to be dark-skinned, wild mushrooms. This delicious burger, served in a restaurant that caters to literally thousands of people, got me thinking about a recent visit to a Dublin gastropub, where the burger was definitely not up to scratch.

The Wild Boar Pub shares premises with The Box Tree restuarant in the village of Stepaside. Both locations come from Eamonn O'Reilly, the chef behind of one Dublin's favourite restaurants, One Pico.  I visited The Box Tree for lunch before Christmas and enjoyed a very competent, well priced meal. Following that good experience, we had promised ourselves that we would return to this lovely venue for a more casual meal in the adjoining pub.

We returned on a cold & blustery February Saturday, when the pub was about half full. The  menu is simple, featuring variations on pub staples, along with a selection of soups and sandwiches. A chalkboard also lists some daily specials. I really like the clean, fresh look that runs throughout the Box Tree and Wild Boar. It's a pub alright, but with a really smart interior, and I especially liked the art deco style lamp shades.

The lovely clean interior of the Wild Boar pub

Himself chose the crispy fried chicken wings with blue cheese dip (€8.95), bulked up with a portion of skinny fries (€2.95). I chose the meatier option of the rib burger, aged Dubliner cheese with basil mayo, tomato relish and more skinny french fries (€13.95).

Burger with Dubliner cheese, fries and tomato relish

Crispy chicken wings with celery, blue cheese dip & fries

Presentation was quite attractive, with both dishes served on wooden boards, his plain and mine with an inset sheet of slate (I bet you that waiters are thankful for that). Sticks of celery stood to attention in a little holder next to the chicken wings, while the skinny fries came in little galvanised buckets.

But the dishes just failed to impress. The chicken wings had a nice crispiness, but no bite or spiciness. They tasted somewhat like they had been tossed in a sweet chili sauce from which the chili had long been departed. My burger had a dry, grainy texture, with the meat crumbling into small pieces as I cut it with my knife. There was no meaty juiciness and no flavour.

On the plus side, I did really enjoy the skinny fries. I'm sick to my back teeth of "chunky chips", particularly in establishments where thick solid wedges masquerade as chips. So well done to the Wild Boar for serving proper French fries. 

The Wild Boar has been feted as one of the new generation of gastropubs, but to be honest, I didn't find anything here that I couldn't find in any generic Irish pub. In a gastropub, I'd expect the burger to be epic, not dry and crumbly. I'd expect zingy American-standard wings, not their wishy-washy cousins. For me, the Wild Boar was a let down, particularly given the standard next door, where we could have enjoyed a two course lunch for not a lot more money (€18.95 each to be exact).

The Wild Boar Pub, Stepaside, Dublin 18
Tel: +353 (0)1 202 5208
URL: www.thewildboar.ie
Twitter: @TheWildBoarPub

L. Mulligan Grocer, Stoneybatter

L. Mulligan Grocer opened its doors in Stoneybatter last year, describing itself as an Eating & Drinking Emporium. Although I was based in Amsterdam at the time, I followed their initial trials and tribulations through their engaging Twitter feed @LMulliganGrocer. Soon after opening, a family member by marriage tried to make a reservation, only to find that the person on the phone wouldn't believe him when he said that his name was L. Mulligan (it really was!).

Roll forward to April this year, and I had heard enough about Mulligans from other sources. It was time to go and sample their delights for myself. I visited on a Friday evening, when it became apparent that a delayed flight at Dublin Airport meant that I would be dining on my lonesome.

Mulligan's is a traditional pub when you enter, but the back opens out into a dining area. On that Friday evening, just about all seats were taken, but I was able to procure a small table in the bar area. One of the staff dropped off the drink and food menus, which come as pages inserted into a selection of old books. The food menu is broken down into starters and mains, each with a suggested beer pairing. I'm a sucker for belly pork, so I chose that along with a glass of the recommended Metalman pale ale. 

The pork came served with mash, cabbage and a balsamic and rum gravy. Portion size was decent for the money, but I found the pork to be only average. The skin was cooked to a kind of plasticky finish and although the flesh was moist, I couldn't find any really flavour in the pork. I found myself using the gravy to add flavour to the meat. (I couldn't help but contrast this to the fantastic pork that I had recently enjoyed at the Exchequer, which was effectively the same dish, but executed with much more aplomb). The accompanying Metalman ale was fantastic, with a light and tangy taste that I enjoyed much more than the pork.

After I had finished my pork, I sat back, releaxed and watch the crowd pour into Mulligan's. The place was turning a brisk trade, with many people enjoying the selection of craft beers on offer. It's definitely enjoyable to see an establishment offering an alternative selection. At this stage, I was offered a dessert menu, and I decided to try the Apple Crumble, served with Murphy's very delicious Sea Salt ice-cream.

My apple crumble came as a single serving in a little ramkin. The sides were warm to touch, but when I eventually managed to punch through the compacted top, I found the inside to be cold. This was a pity as I had looked forward to warm apple crumble with melting ice cream. The apple filling was too sugary which when mixed with the sweet crumble, meant that the whole dessert was just saccherine overkill.

Total damage came to approx €25 (sorry that I can't remember precisely). I am a fan of the virtues that Mulligans espouses and I wish them all the best. Perhaps I chose the wrong menu items, but I left feeling very "meh" about the whole experience. I wish I had felt otherwise. 

L. Mulligan Grocer, 18 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7. Tel +353 (0)1 670 9889

Annie's Gastropub, Cork

When I was a student in Cork, friends of mine lived in a grotty old house in Sunday's Well Cork. Just around the corner was Annie Mac's, a traditional old pub. Well, in 2oo8, Annie's Gastropub replaced the old Annie's. Thing is, I wasn't living in Cork anymore, so I didn't get to see this transformation firsthand.

Well, on a recent visit to Cork, friends told us about Annie's, so we decided to visit for Sunday lunch. It turns out that Chef Zico Ali is an old hand at the gastropub game, having worked at The Lord Palmerston, a leading early London gastropub.

Upon entering we were greeted by a large blackboard featuring the many varied offerings of the day. I wondered how a small pub on the wrong side of the Lee could manage to offer so much choice to diners. The interior is a little chilly, having been painted all creamy white, but some sunshine managed to struggle in. Having decided, we took our seats in the winter sunshine and ordered.

While waiting, the waitress delivered some delicious homemade bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping. With excellent oil and bread, we appeared to be off to a good start. The spicy sweet potato soup (E4.95) turned out to be a little more vegetable-y and brothy than I would have liked. I know sweet potatoes can make a beautiful, smooth soup with a sweet flavour. This however, was not that. My starter of haloumi, hummous, babaganoush and warm pittas (E9) turned out to be pretty good with a deliciously smoky babaganoush and rich hummous. I couldn't help however but unfavourably compare the price tag for 4 small dollops and half a pitta with the price for a full-on Lebanese lunch in the Cedar Tree, Dublin.

With our starters cleared, we returned to the Sunday papers while we waited for the mains. About half a dozen local men were seated at the bar, enjoying their post-mass, pre-lunch Sunday pint while discussing sport and other important local stuff. It was clear that these lads were impervious to the gastropub tag. They were continuing to visit their local, regardless of the changes around them.

My main of belly pork with winter vegetables and apple sauce (E20) turned out to be just too sweet. The pork was beautifully cooked, two nice squares falling apart at the touch of the fork. But there was a general lack of salt in the dish, both on the meat and the accompanying piece of crackling. A sweet gravy, combined with the apple sauce overpowered all the other flavours on the plate. The Hereford rib eye steak (E24) was superbly well-aged with a dry texture that wasn't dry! It was well-cooked and rested and came served with potato wedges and aioli.

Overall, I just wasn't impressed by Annie's. The ingredients used are clearly of good quality but the overall effect was of trying too hard, and charging too much. Gastropub doesn't mean a licence to charge large amounts for Sunday lunch. All through the meal, I couldn't help but think of the likes ofOliver 's Eatery in Terenure were you can enjoy good pub food at great prices. It's always been a Cork thing to charge too much - but I don't believe that restaurants in Cork do any less business than restaurants in Dublin.

Two espressos bought the bill to E62! For lunch! Not on lads.