Stitch and Bear

A long-running Irish blog with reviews of the best restaurants in Dublin and throughout Ireland. Some wine and cocktails thrown in for good measure!

Sunday, February 14, 2016

[Review] Suesey Street, Dublin 2

I was a long-time fan of Brasserie Le Pont, located on Fitzwilliam place. I visited it many times for lunch and Sunday lunch. I loved the dining room space and always enjoyed my meals there, despite the strong pinstripe suit crowd. I must admit that I was surprised when I heard that it was closing, to make way for a new venue. It didn't seem like a venue that needed a makeover.

Anyway, Brasserie Le Pont has given way to Suesey Street, which was the original name for Leeson Street many moons ago. Apparently, the original Suesey Street also had a reputation as a location for finding ladies of the night, which is inspiration for the collection of cheeky artwork that adorns the walls of the dining area.

The bar has been completely overhauled and is now a flush with bronzey warmth, with plenty bar stools and comfortable chairs. There's a good cocktail menu with bar snacks also available for casual dining. I start with a Guinness and raspberry flip which is excellently made and deliciously creamy. Around the corner from the bar, the dining area opens up. Here, the changes are not as dramatic as the bar, but the space feels warmer and less stark than before. Outside, there's a covered terrace area, which will surely be a busy spot come warmer weather. 
Guinness and raspberry flip

After sipping on our cocktails, we are escorted through to our table and presented with menus. The food menu reads well, with a good selection of considered options. A warm cheese and onion bread stole the show early on, ably supported by an excellent brown bread. Ever a glutton, I choose the pan-fried foie gras which is beautifully cooked and balanced with gently sharp lentils atop a slice of toasted brioche (€15.00). Himself had the salad of Dunany crab which was unexpectedly fresh and bright, with crunchy wafers of radish and kohlrabi (€14.00). 
Dunany crab salad
Pan-fried foie gras with lentils and brioche
Both of us had chosen fish for mains. His halibut was crisply golden on top with a divine sauce intensely flavoured with Alsace bacon, white beans, clams and mussels (€27.00). Monkfish was just oh-so-cooked, with a lemony foam, little slices of fondant potato, caramelised fennel and a dense (but not too dense) crab croquette. This was impressive fish cooking, with indulgent touches.
Halibut with Alsace bacon, mussels, clams and white beans
Monkfish with caramelised fennel, crab croquette and fondant potato
The high standards from the kitchen continued as we were passed over to the pastry chef. A simple looking classic tarte tatin came with ice-cream and a little jug of creme anglaise for pouring (€9.00). Classics are classics for a reason. I went for the unusual sounding yogurt panna cotta which had a lovely native tartness, but topped with a warmly spiced orange syrup and toasted oats. (€9.00). There is an excellent selection of dessert wines and, of course, we indulged with two glasses alongside our desserts. 
Yogurt panna cotta with orange
Apple tarte tatin with creme anglaise
Chef Graeme Dodrill (most recently to be found at Mulberry and the short-lived Saison) has lately taken over in the kitchen, which inspires greatly inspires my confidence for future excellence. John Healy, who you will recognise from TV3's The Restaurant, leads the front of house team, including the excellent bartenders responsible for my delicious flip.  

End verdict - the reboot has worked. The quality of food has seriously stepped up a notch with calm confidence, while the bar and terrace re-vamp has revitalised these underused spaces. Our total bill came close to €200, which is not a cheap night out by any means. My only concern lies with the fact that I've already been in Suesey Street several times for cocktails and each time the venue was quiet. which remained the case on our visit for dinner. I don't know if word has spread enough yet, but trust me, this is good food.

Suesey Street, 26 Fizwilliam Place, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 669 4600
Twitter: @sueseystreet
Instagram: @sueseystreet

Suesey Street Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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