Stitch and Bear

A long-running Irish blog with reviews of the best restaurants in Dublin and throughout Ireland. Some wine and cocktails thrown in for good measure!

Friday, November 24, 2017

[Review] Clanbrassil House, Clanbrassil Street, Dublin 8

A few years ago, I saw a commercial premise on Upper Clanbrassil Street come up for sale, and I had a little fantasy of purchasing it, renovating it and living upstairs while letting out the little unit downstairs. The property eventually went off the market, only to recently resurface lately as the home of Clanbrassil House restaurant, an off-shoot from the lauded Bastible, which is situated just around the corner. 

The decor is plain and simple, even austere, with clean white walls and dark wood tables with the dining space split into two cosy rooms. There's a small front room with high tables, and a second room to the rear with sit down tables. The rear room has a wide pass into the kitchen, with a ringside view of the wood burning grill and occasional wafts of smoky goodness hitting our table. We settle in and order a bottle of Portuguese Dao red wine from Niepoort (€38). The menu starts with a selection of snacks before breaking into small plates (starters) and items from the charcoal grill.

A special starter of beef tartare is satisfyingly beefy, accompanied by already famous and delightfully crunchy beef dripping toast (€9). A bowl of celeriac ravioli with hazelnuts and apple balsamic is bang on the current trend for buttery ravioli and is the veritable stuff of pasta dreams (€10). the smooth creamy filling and buttery sauce is beautifully balanced with little dabs of balsamic zing. 
Stitch & Bear - Clanbrassil House - Beef tartare with beef dripping toast
Beef tartare with beef dripping toast


Stitch & Bear - Clanbrassil House - Celeriac ravioli with hazelnut and apple balsamic
Celeriac ravioli with hazelnut and apple balsamic
When it's time for the main, we want to let that beautiful grill do it's thing, so we choose the cote du boeuf for two, medium rare, along with two sides of our choice (€58). The steak arrives sliced, along with the bone and a scattering of onion pieces holding puddles of rich jus. It's perfectly cooked, with just enough hint of the wood char to remind you of how it was cooked, but not too much to overpower. The side dishes steal the show, particularly the grilled sprouting broccoli with miso butter, although there's a decent showing from the brussels sprouts with tangy kimchi (€4 and €5 respectively if ordered on their own). The kitchen also throws in a portion of hash brown chips with pickled onion mayo which are exceedingly good and crunchy (€4). 
Stitch & Bear - Clanbrassil House - Cote du boeuf for two
Cote du boeuf for two with hash brown chips, brussels sprouts with kimchi and broccoli and miso
Then it's time for dessert, and in my opinion the real stars of the Clanbrassil House show. A slice of carrot and hazelnut cake is served simply with a neutral creamy cheese topping. But then you cut through to the fantastic citrus curd sitting underneath and it's complete pow (€7). The citrus theme continues with a light and fluffy chocolate mousse, accompanied with honeycomb and marmalade ice-cream (€7). 

Chef Gráinne O'Keeffe is at the helm in Clanbrassil House, with Barry O'Neill as sous-chef, and despite her relatively young years, this is a chef cooking with confidence and verve. Perhaps it's not surprising given her time in the kitchens at Il Segreto, the Merrion Hotel, Pichet and Bastible. But even so, this is a chef team moving firmly and confidently in their own direction. Bravo!

Clanbrassil House, 6 Clanbrassil Street Upper, Dublin 8
Tel: +353 (0)1 453 9786
URL: www.clanbrassilhouse.com
Twitter: @clanbrassilH
Instagram: @clanbrassilhouse
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1 comment

Faith Coates said...

I love finding new places to have wonderful meals at. I am adding this to my list for the next time I am in Dublin everything sounds so incredibly appetising I can't wait to try it all.

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