[Review] Sprezzatura, Grantham Street, Dublin 8

Sprezzatura is the latest entrant into the Dublin dining market, and even after just one visit, I'm confident that it's going to go the distance. Semolina pasta is freshly made onsite every day and sold along with a selection of small plates at what can only be called crazy low prices. Every dish is under €10 and at these prices, it's going to be packed.

Located in the premises of the former Grantham's cafe, it's a stones throw from Camden Street, and a multitude of various corporate offices who will surely appreciate having a good new lunch spot. The restaurant is  in the minimal style, and split across two rooms. The first room is centred around a large communal table and high seats, while the other room holds tables and booths. The furniture is what I term "plywood chic", a style which supports the quick and cost-effective fit-out of new restaurants.

Penne pasta with Toonsbridge ricotta and nduja

[Review] The Eddison, Dylan Hotel, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4

The 5* Dylan Hotel, located just off Upper Baggot Street has recently had a significant refresh. The vibrant jewel colours and velvets of the Celtic Tiger era are gone, replaced by a sleek and stylish modern interior full of light and wood which suits the gorgeous redbrick exterior. The original building was built in 1901 as a home for nurses from the nearby Royal City of Dublin Hospital. Miss Edith Anne Eddison held the position of Matron from 1909 - 1917, during which she oversaw the treatment of soldiers and casualties from the 1916 Easter Rising, and the revamped Eddison Restaurant is named in her honour. 

The dining room itself is absolutely stunning with bright white walls, sage green seating and a eye-catching plant installation at the far end. The room whispers that good things happen here, and I gladly settle in on the comfortable seats with an excellent gin martini from the adjacent Ruby's Room bar. The stated focus of Chef Paul Quinn is to create food which is seasonal, fresh, Irish and clean, and this is reinforced by the menu which changes monthly to take full advantage of seasonal ingredients.

Pre-dinner martini at the Eddison

[Review] Ichigo Ichie, Sheares Street, Cork

Visiting a restaurant with a freshly broken ankle is not something I'd normally recommend doing. However, when the restaurant in question is Cork City's only Michelin-starred restaurant, and the reservation was made several months before, then you can understand why I was determined to visit. Thus I found myself, two weeks after fracturing my fibula, slowly hobbling along Sheares Street and into the calm interior of Ichigo Ichie. 

The story of Takashi Miyazaki is the type of story we all love to hear. Takashi came to Ireland in 2008 after spending his career working in a 5* star hotel and travelling around Japan, exploring the different regional cuisines. Like all good stories, he fell in love with an Irishwoman and the rest is history. Leaving Japan behind, he had a dream of opening his own restaurant, and he succeeded in 2015 with the eponymous Miyazaki which bought casual Japanese food to Cork. But the dream wasn't over for this quietly determined man and, in April 2018, he opened the fine dining Ichigo Ichie. Accolades were quickly earned crowned with the awarding of a Michelin star a mere 6 months later. 

Welcome to Ichigo Ichie

[Review] Circa, Terenure, Dublin 6W

There's something magic and just a little special in the air at Terenure, and it's all due to a collaboration between four friends. There is no shortage of new restaurant openings in Dublin, and in order to stand out, you've got to hit the ground running. But when you consider the collective experience of co-owners Ross Duffy, Robert Murphy, Emmet Murphy and chef Gareth Naughton.

Just about everything at Circa makes me sing with happiness. The dining open is bright, open and spacious with plenty of room between tables. There are beautiful shades of green and brassy golden fixtures, plus a stunningly elegant  marble-topped bar for drinks and dining. Even the pine green subway tiles in the bathroom make me smile and this that this is the most beautiful bathroom. 

The May menu at Circa

[Review] Assassination Custard, Kevin Street Lower, Dublin 8

It's been a while. I wrote my last review on this blog in September 2018 not realising that my life was going to enter into a whirlwind phase. I was promoted at work, putting me firmly into the ranks of senior management. I started a work project that quickly took over a large chunk of my time, and we purchased a house. Following a long day at work, I would often find myself painting or sanding in a hurried effort to get our house ready before we moved in. Christmas dinner was served on two mismatched tables, with a fancy gold cloth hiding all manner of sins. Life does indeed have a mean sense of humour at times.

Anyway, it's time to get back to food and eating out. Assassination Custard is a little spot on Kevin Street owned by Ken Doherty and partner Gwen McGrath that has attained cult like status amongst food lovers since its opening in 2015. Its mystique is enhanced by the steel shuttering that usually hides the interior and the limited opening hours (12pm - 3pm, Monday to Friday only) which are not so great for those of us that are office based. Given that there are just a mere 12 seats spread across the 2 tables, I can advise that it's wise to get there early, especially as dishes tend to run out quickly with the first wave of diners. I arrived at 12.15pm only to find all spots taken, the only time I've ever found Irish people early for lunch.

[Review] The Ivy, Dawson Street, Dublin 2

Remember the hype of swapping Panini football cards or Pokemon cards? You wanted to see what everyone else had, jealous of your friend's stash or gloating over your good fortune. Right now, the Irish food critics are in a foamy frenzy, the likes of which we haven't seen since the great swops of Italia 90. 

What's causing all this noise I hear you say? What is causing food critics to trade photos and experiences, eager to read the next review and revel in the next salacious salty comment? Perhaps the question is more zen. Are you even a food critic if you haven't written a review of The Ivy?

The rather stunning interior, courtesy of @theivydublin

[Review] Host, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

This review is a love story, a story of a girl and the perfect grilled pork chop. But before we get into the details of how this came about, I need to get something off my chest.

We've all become conscious of the horrendous lives of battery-farmed chicken but we don't yet have the same awareness when it comes to pigs. Pigs are smart, very smart in fact. I've laughed as my father has duelled with Houdini-like pigs, determined to escape their field at all costs and I've cursed when they manage to find, dig up and chew through the solitary water pipe that ran under their large field. I've enjoyed glorious pork, ham, bacon and homemade black pudding from the free-range pigs occasionally raised by my parents, and I wonder why we tolerate treating such a smart animal with such utter disrespect, raising them without sunshine and open air, and slaughtering them to produce discounted €3 packs of bland pork chops. 

Anyway, back to the review and why this porcine diatribe is relevant. Host Restaurant in Ranelagh has been open for nearly a year now and during that time, I've become quite a fan of the approach of co-owners Chloe Kearney and Niall McDermott (also head chef). The style at Host is minimalist, all the way from the bright white exterior with its oh-so-discreet signage right through to the exposed air ducts and open kitchen. It's a small space, but a clever mix of seating options brings a form of texture to the dining room which is bright in daytime and alluringly cosy at nighttime. 

Host restaurant, Ranelagh

[Review] Mad Egg, Charlotte Way, Dublin 2

Chicken is a meat I rarely order when dining out. It can be bland, dry and just an all-round snoozefest. But there is undoubtedly a place in my heart and my stomach for  classic crispy chicken dishes like chicken Kiev and fried chicken. In fact, there are a lot of fried chicken fans out there, as I learned when listening to an episode of BBC's The Food Programme podcast. And when there are lots of fans, it's always a good idea to take that seriously.

New casual restaurant Mad Egg located on Charlotte Way at the southern end of Camden Street, takes fried chicken very seriously indeed. Since opening several months again, it's been packed all day and evening. I know, I work nearby. I was initially skeptical about opening a restaurant in that location, but hey, what do I know?

Love me Sticky Tenders with chicken salt fries

[Review] Bento at the Bonsai Bar, Dublin 2

I was recently invited* by Bonsai Bar to come visit and try their new bento box offering. I gladly accepted as I've always liked the creativity and sheer tastiness of Dylan McGrath's food and I was curious to see what twist he would bring to this Japanese staple which is essentially a pre-packed meal. The Bonsai Bar is located in the same building as Rustic Stone and Taste at Rustic, sandwiched between the two on the first floor. I remember reviewing it several years ago when it was called Bar Rustic, prior to its makeover into Bonsai. While the back bar has had a makeover, the overall decor hasn't changed significantly and those lovely black leather chairs that I liked so much first time around are still in use. 

The bento menu concept is available from 4pm - 8pm Wednesday to Saturdays only. There are three varieties on offer, simply called meat, fish and veg, each with 4 dishes and priced at €18 each.  Some of the constituent dishes are available to order separately for €7, so if you really want one particular element, you can enjoy it without ordering the full bento. 

Roast salmon with broccoli and sesame

[Travel] A weekend in the Priorat

Last August, I found myself standing on top of a hill in the Priorat, surrounded by vines laden heavy with grapes, under the intense searingly dry heat of the late summer sun. The vineyards were enjoying the quiet time that comes before the hustle and bustle of the harvest. It was a pretty intense moment, where I really felt connected to the land, to the vines and to the magnificent wines of the region. 

The Torres Priorat winery at El Lloar

[Review] Ristorante Romano, Capel Street, Dublin 1

A few months ago, I saw an article from Tom Doorley that caught my interest. It featured Ristorante Romano, an old school Italian restaurant on Dublin's Capel Street, a restaurant that I had passed by many times without ever taking any real notice. I trust Tom's opinion, and when he uses words like   "brilliant" and "best pasta", you pay attention.  so I made a mental note to visit whenever I was next in the vicinity.

I'm not going to beat about the bush when it comes to the interior. It's basic and it definitely hasn't seen any hipster influence. Owner Romano Morelli is a cycling lover and there's a bicycle frame hanging in the dining room, along with various cycling-themed photos. But that's as eccentric as it gets. Even the menus are simple laminated cards that show the wear and tear of having passed through many hands. 

But as you read the menu, you will find your eyebrows rising slightly. Prices are very definitely in the affordable range, and as far as I can see, the a la carte prices haven't changed since at least 2011. It gets even better in the wine section, where the most expensive bottle, a Chianti Classico, clocks in at a not-so-hefty €23, with most bottles listed at €18. A 500ml carafe of red or white house wine will set you back a mere €10. 

Bruschetta

[Review] Glovers Alley, Dublin 2

By the end of last year, I had heard whisperings of a new restaurant opening in the Fitzwilliam Hotel. It was going to aim high, and was recruiting staff from the best spots in town. That restaurant is now open, and there's no doubt that the uber luxurious Glovers Alley by Andy McFadden is currently the hottest ticket in town. 

Originally from Tallaght, McFadden became London's youngest Michelin-starred chef, before deciding last year to return home and invest in the space formerly occupied by Thorntons Restaurant. While McFadden's name is the name over the door and embossed on the menus, he's assembled a crack team around him. Head chef Philip Roe has accompanied Andy from London, head sommelier James Brooke moved across the Green from Restaurant Patrick Guildbaud, general manager Ed Jolliffe comes from Chapter One and the stellar Aoife Noonan joined as executive pastry chef, formerly having worked at Luna and Guildbaud.

[Review] Bresson, Monkstown, Co Dublin

There's a growing appetite for high quality restaurants in the suburbs. After all, who wants the hassle of travelling into town for dinner or lunch after a week of commuting to work? You need only think of Craft in Harold's Cross, Ember in Milltown or Michaels in Mount Merrion to see examples of successful restaurants, located right in the heart of their communities.

Chef Temple Garner, formerly of Town Bar & Grill and San Lorenzo's has joined up with Conor Kavanagh of The Old Spot to open French restaurant Bresson in Monkstown, located just a few minutes walk from the DART station. Bresson occupies the premises formerly filled by Seapoint, but whereas Seapoint was white and seaside-y, Bresson is all Paris-bistro with lashings of dark wood, dark leather and lots of Art Deco-esque French posters. Entrance to the restaurant is via a very tempting outdoor dining area, perfect for a glass of wine and lunch on warmer days.

Bresson on Monkstown Crescent

[Review] Fuel...Fit Food, Clontarf, Dublin 3

This morning, I woke up feeling foggy and not rested. When I feel that way, one of my favourite cures is a brisk walk in the fresh air to flush out the cobwebs. Usually I head towards Sandymount or one of the around the southside of the city. Today however, I wanted to take a look at the ongoing renovations at Clontarf Baths, so we headed north. 

45 minutes walking later, I was feeling much better. Looking around Vernon Avenue, we spotted the very small and cute Fuel...Fit Food. The best word to describe the interior is compact, with many small tables neatly tucked in. The focus here is clearly on healthy tasty food, with a young clientele who appear to like their coffees flat and white. 

Mexican eggs

[Review] 3 Leaves, Blackrock Market, Blackrock, Co Dublin

It's a bitterly cold January lunchtime as we enter Blackrock Market. Wind is funnelled by the crowded aisles and as we pass the shuttered doors of Michelin-starred Heron & Grey, I find myself wishing for somewhere warm and cosy. Going for lunch after my yoga class, while still in my yoga leggings, doesn't seem like a good idea anymore. 

We are here in search of 3 Leaves, a small Indian restaurant from chef Santosh Thomas and his wife Milie who came to Ireland over 10 years ago. The buzz about this little spot has been quietly growing, and last year Thomas scooped the Best Indian Chef in Dublin gong at the Irish Curry Awards. Not bad for a small little spot in a market!

Gulabi chicken curry

[Blog] Most popular reviews of 2017

I always find it extremely interesting to load up Google Analytics, and analyse my blog statistics. I particularly like to do it at the end of every year with the specific objective of understanding what reviews were most interesting to my readers. Thankfully this year, your preferred spots coincided largely with with my favourite venues from 2017. So without further ado, here are 5 most popular restaurant reviews from 2017, plus one wildcard from yours truly.

5. Rachel's, Cork

In 2007, TV chef and Ballymaloe family member, Rachel Allen opened her eponymous restaurant and cocktail bar on Cork's Washington Street. Within a few months, Rachel's had garnered a selection of mixed reviews with an overall consensus that Cork had gained a smart new restaurant, with a strong focus on using local produce.

Rack of spring lamb with wild garlic and almond crumb

[Review] Ali's Kitchen, Rory Gallagher Place, Cork

As a student in Cork City, I spent many afternoons browsing the bookshelves of Connolly's bookshop on Rory Gallagher Place. I couldn't, and still can't, get enough books in my life. When I learned than Alan Connolly had retired and closed his bookshop, I was disappointed to see a little of the old fabric of Cork disappearing.  

I need not have worried however, as the opening of Ali's Kitchen in this beautiful old building has given Cork a vibrant cafe and bakehouse which has quickly developed a reputation as the place for brunch and baked goods in the city. Even browsing their Instagram feed induces salivation. 

Coffee at Ali's Kitchen

[Review] BuJo Burger, Sandymount, Dublin 4

It's hard to keep a good thing down, and right now chef Gráinne O'Keeffe is the woman on top. Not only is she head chef at the wonderful Clanbrassil House (read my review here), but she is also culinary director at BuJo Burger, Dublin's newest burger joint. 

BuJo is a simple restaurant where you order, take a seat, and wait for your order to cook before collecting at the counter. It's bright and cheerful, perfect for family parties, teenage dates or a casual quite bite. On the day we visit, owner Michael Sheary is busily hands-on, refilling the soda dispenser and directing his young and cheerful team. 

For all its simplicity, BuJo comes with serious food credentials. Whole cuts of West Cork beef go into the burgers, while the brioche bun comes from Coghlan's Bakery in Newbridge, Co Kildare. Ice cream comes from Wexford, while Wicklow Wolf brewery and Dan Kelly's cider feature on the menu. In a forward thinking move, the disposable cutlery and cups are biodegradable. Top marks so far. 

BuJo burger and spicy fries

[Review] Clanbrassil House, Clanbrassil Street, Dublin 8

A few years ago, I saw a commercial premise on Upper Clanbrassil Street come up for sale, and I had a little fantasy of purchasing it, renovating it and living upstairs while letting out the little unit downstairs. The property eventually went off the market, only to recently resurface lately as the home of Clanbrassil House restaurant, an off-shoot from the lauded Bastible, which is situated just around the corner. 

The decor is plain and simple, even austere, with clean white walls and dark wood tables with the dining space split into two cosy rooms. There's a small front room with high tables, and a second room to the rear with sit down tables. The rear room has a wide pass into the kitchen, with a ringside view of the wood burning grill and occasional wafts of smoky goodness hitting our table. We settle in and order a bottle of Portuguese Dao red wine from Niepoort (€38). The menu starts with a selection of snacks before breaking into small plates (starters) and items from the charcoal grill.

A special starter of beef tartare is satisfyingly beefy, accompanied by already famous and delightfully crunchy beef dripping toast (€9). A bowl of celeriac ravioli with hazelnuts and apple balsamic is bang on the current trend for buttery ravioli and is the veritable stuff of pasta dreams (€10). the smooth creamy filling and buttery sauce is beautifully balanced with little dabs of balsamic zing. 

Beef tartare with beef dripping toast

[Event] Bar 1661 pop-up from Bán Poitín

Several years ago I attended the Irish launch of Bán Poitín, and immediately loved their modern, vibrant version of this much-maligned traditional Irish spirit. Now, the Bán Poitín Bar 1661 cocktail pop-up is asking you to forget the traditional image of the illicit bottle wrapped in brown paper hidden under the kitchen sink, and instead experience the quality and style of modern poitín. 

For 6 weeks only, Bar 1661 will be located in a retro basement next to Berlin Cafe on Dame Lane where it will serve a changing cocktail menu based on just one spirit, poitín. In addition, drinks will incorporate under-used and under-valued native Irish ingredients, supported by over 25 producers, distillers, foragers and farmers. 

The Gaeilgeor and Leprechaun Zombie cocktails