[Review] Host, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

This review is a love story, a story of a girl and the perfect grilled pork chop. But before we get into the details of how this came about, I need to get something off my chest.

We've all become conscious of the horrendous lives of battery-farmed chicken but we don't yet have the same awareness when it comes to pigs. Pigs are smart, very smart in fact. I've laughed as my father has duelled with Houdini-like pigs, determined to escape their field at all costs and I've cursed when they manage to find, dig up and chew through the solitary water pipe that ran under their large field. I've enjoyed glorious pork, ham, bacon and homemade black pudding from the free-range pigs occasionally raised by my parents, and I wonder why we tolerate treating such a smart animal with such utter disrespect, raising them without sunshine and open air, and slaughtering them to produce discounted €3 packs of bland pork chops. 

Anyway, back to the review and why this porcine diatribe is relevant. Host Restaurant in Ranelagh has been open for nearly a year now and during that time, I've become quite a fan of the approach of co-owners Chloe Kearney and Niall McDermott (also head chef). The style at Host is minimalist, all the way from the bright white exterior with its oh-so-discreet signage right through to the exposed air ducts and open kitchen. It's a small space, but a clever mix of seating options brings a form of texture to the dining room which is bright in daytime and alluringly cosy at nighttime. 

Host restaurant, Ranelagh

[Blog] Most popular reviews of 2017

I always find it extremely interesting to load up Google Analytics, and analyse my blog statistics. I particularly like to do it at the end of every year with the specific objective of understanding what reviews were most interesting to my readers. Thankfully this year, your preferred spots coincided largely with with my favourite venues from 2017. So without further ado, here are 5 most popular restaurant reviews from 2017, plus one wildcard from yours truly.

5. Rachel's, Cork

In 2007, TV chef and Ballymaloe family member, Rachel Allen opened her eponymous restaurant and cocktail bar on Cork's Washington Street. Within a few months, Rachel's had garnered a selection of mixed reviews with an overall consensus that Cork had gained a smart new restaurant, with a strong focus on using local produce.

Rack of spring lamb with wild garlic and almond crumb

[Review] Nightmarket, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

I've spent the past 16 months travelling every week for work, flying out to Amsterdam first thing on Monday morning, returning late on Thursday. But now it's all over, and I'm back in Dublin for the foreseeable future. On one hand, I'm delighted. Normal life can resume again, rather than living permanently out of a suitcase. But on the other hand, I'm already missing my flights and hotels, and of course, I'm desperately missing Amsterdam, a city in which I've spent close to 2 and a half years working. 

But being home does allow me to start visiting all those new spots I haven't tried yet.  And first up was Nightmarket, Ranelagh's newest restaurant, taking over the location left vacant by the recent closure of An Bhialann. It's so new that signage is still to be erected and the website is still in launch mode.  Owned by by Conor Sexton (known for Dublin's well-loved Koh restaurant) and his wife R, Nightmarket promises traditional regional Thai food. Sounds great.

Yum Makeua Yao

[Review] Lucky Tortoise Dumpling Pop-Up

I got a little bit excited recently. That kind of excitement usually only happens to me when I get near the vicinity of real Chinese food. As a result, Capel Street and Parnell Street have the kind of effect on me that you normally only get when purchasing illegal pharmaceuticals. Show me genuine Sichuan or Hunan food, or some top notch dim sum and I am one happy lady. 

So you can imagine that my ears perked up when I heard about The Lucky Tortoise, a dumpling and dim sum pop-up at The Hill Pub in Ranelagh. Firstly, I really enjoy the Hill Pub. Friends and owners Derek Marsden and Darragh Nugent have done a great job revitalising this traditional pub with superb pub food and a fantastic selection of craft beers. Secondly... dumplings! Thom Lawson, the man behind the Lucky Tortoise, is bringing his creative take on high quality and affordable food to the historical tradition of the dumpling and dim sum. 

[Review] Ember, Milltown, Dublin 6

I was intrigued when I heard about a new restaurant opening in Milltown. Oddly though, my major source of puzzlement was not about the venue itself, but trying to figure out where "Milltown Shopping Centre" was located. After a few seconds, it clicked with me that this was the fanciful name for the stretch of  local shops and services that are located outside the entrance to Mount Saint Annes. Fair enough, I'm going to rename Chez Cronin to Chateau Cronin. 

Ember is the latest in a very welcome series of local restaurants and bistros that are opening up around the suburbs. As it happens, it's a few minutes brisk walk from my house and is a very welcome alternative to schlepping around for a taxi to make me into town. Owner and chef Greg O'Mahony brings his fine dining credentials to bear in this very stylish venue. The interior is extremely smart and luxurious and will only get better over time as the parquet floor picks up some lustre and the red leather acquires a patina imparted by well-fed backsides. 

The elegant interior at Ember

[Review] New Season Menus at Brioche Ranelagh

I've been a fan of Gavin McDonagh and his restaurant, Brioche, for quite a while now. It all started several years back with an evening time pop-up style restaurant called Brioche Ce Soir on Aungier Street where McDonagh produced very tasty small plates in the smallest of kitchens. In 2014, I visited Brioche in its stylish new home just off the main Ranelagh strip, where it was quickly clear that McDonagh had moved up a gear. I've visited several times since, each of which has reinforced that original impression of constant improvement and refinement. 

At the end of August, we visited for Saturday Lughnasa lunch. With autumn and winter looming around the corner, new season menus are coming at Brioche and we got to sample a few of the new dishes throughout our lunch. Presentation is one of McDonagh's key strengths, as well as his ability to infuse intense flavours throughout his dishes, and the bright afternoon sunshine really allowed the vibrant dishes to shine.

Because I've eaten at Brioche several times, and have already written reviews, I am not going to go into detail here. Instead, I'll let my photos do the talking. 

Smoked cured mackerel with tomato salsa and lightly fried onion rings

[Review] La Bodega, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

Some Sundays are made for roast dinners and some Sundays are made for snacking. As we strolled up Ranelagh, heading northwards, we were definitely in the mood for grazing and a cleverly positioned blackboard advertising an outdoors heated terrace at La Bodega proved the snare.

We've been to La Bodega several times and while I like the comfortably darkened interior with its mismatched seating, a summer Sunday evening felt more suitable to eating al fresco. On Sundays, live guitar music fills the dining room, gently wrapping the diners in the magic of Spain. The corridor out to the terrace passes the kitchen area but then opens up in a lovely area with raised decking, faux grass, fairy lights and lanterns. Baskets of rugs are positioned around the space so that diners can wrap themselves up when evenings get too cold. 

The outdoor heated terrace at La Bodega

The menu at La Bodega is pretty typical tapas fare and we ordered with gusto. A generous portion of Garbanzas con morcilla (chickpeas cooked with Spanish black pudding €6.50) kicked us off, quickly followed by my favourite patatas bravas (deep fried cubes of potato with spicy sauce €5.00). 

Other dishes followed in swift succession from the kitchen including pan Catalan (crunchy bread rubbed with tomato and topped with thick jamon €5.00) and another vegetarian favourite habas con jamon (pan-fried broad beans with jamon €6.00). Our little feast was rounded out by a portion of gambas al ajillo (prawns fried with garlic €7.95), with additional bread ordered from the kitchen for soaking up of the tasty juices.

Garbanzas con morcilla 

Pan Catalan

Patatas bravas

Habas con Jamón

Gambas con ajillo

It's been a long time since I was in Madrid, but when I saw the traditional dish of churros served with liquid dark chocolate, I was hooked (€6.00). Freshly fried sticks of dough, coated in granulated sugar and dipped into slightly bitter chocolate is an experience everyone should try at least once. It's a recipe for diabetic disaster, but once every so often won't hurt, right?

Churros con chocolate

It's worth mentioning that many of the tapas at La Bodega are available in two sizes, the regular size and the larger racion. I personally found the regular size to be more than enough, so I'd recommend reserving the racion portions for the hungrier days.

Any restaurant that survives for a length of time in Ranelagh is clearly doing something right. While not wildly exciting in its selection of tapas, La Bodega produces a solid, tasty selection of classic tapas, topped up with live guitar music and a comfortable interior. The new heated terrace will have the dual effect of increasing dining space while offering an attractive option for wine on a summer evening. Viva la España!

La Bodega, 93 Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 497 5577
URL: www.labodega.ie
Twitter: @labodegaranelag

[Review] Wild Goose Grill, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

I'm so over Sunday brunch right now. Eggs benedict, French toast and granola can all jog on. Whereas brunch was originally all about breaking the breakfast/lunch barriers, I now find it to be borderline tedious. Sometimes it feels that all brunch menus are alike and the enforcement of brunch-only policies on Saturdays and Sundays in some restaurants has further disenchanted me. So I've largely hung up my free-wheeling brunching ways and instead I have moved on to the more sedate pleasures of Sunday Lunch. 

Now I do want to be clear about one thing. When I say Sunday Lunch, I do not mean carvery or bar lunch. That's a whole other minefield that I'll reserve for another day. I'm talking about good restaurants and their talented chefs who turn their attentions to more traditional fare on Sundays. Recently, I reviewed Marcel's in Ballsbridge who do a very civilised lunch indeed, and I recently followed this up with lunch at The Wild Goose Grill in Ranelagh, located over the well known McSorley's pub. 

The Wild Goose Grill is perennially popular, but there's little about it said on the internet. Rather usually for a goose (usually to be found honking in a field or honking while flying overhead), it maintains a low profile, which is impressive in the busy surroundings of Ranelagh. The dining room is classically styled with linen, crystal and silver settings. We started with a crispy confit of duck with ubiquitous puy lentils and red wine jus for Himself, and a lighter pickled pear, goats cheese, candied walnut and pomegranate salad for me. Puy lentils have failed to convince me of their worth on many occasions but I liked them here, while the simple salad was nicely done. 

Duck confit with puy lentils and red wine jus

Pickled pear and goats cheese salad

When a restaurant called The Wild Goose Grill serves goose, it's impossible to resist ordering. The duo of goose featured rich breast meat and a little roll of dark meat, served with bright carrot puree and Goose potatoes. Rich, satisfying and perfect for a cold winter day. My wild mushroom risotto was creamily mushroomy, replete with a cornucopia of mushroom varieties. And in a move unknown to many restaurants, the portion wasn't too big either. 

Duo of goose

Wild mushroom risotto

Sunday lunch at The Wild Goose Grill costs €19.95/€24.95 for 2 or 3 courses and is served the entire day from 1pm to 8pm. That should suit even the latest of late risers. The wine list makes for good reading with a good selection of wines by the glass. In a clever move towards the end of last year, they teamed up with downstairs McSorley's to offer a daily three course lunch for €10. That's great value and hopefully it will return. 

So remind me again, why I would choose Eggs Benedict for the umpteenth time when Dublin has a fine range of restaurants serving up belly-busting, top notch Sunday Lunch?

The Wild Goose Grill, 1 Sandford Road, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 491 2377
URL: www.thewildgoosegrill.ie
Twitter: @wildgoosegrill

[Review] The Exchequer Wine Bar, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

I was pretty saddened when the Diep restaurant in Ranelagh closed. I loved their creamy, rich curries and would often stop there for a meal on my way home from my weekly commuter flight. A major kitchen fire in 2011 closed the restaurant, and that was the end of my late night curry jaunts. 

Disappointed as I was, I looked forward to a restaurant opening in Ranelagh, but surprisingly it took until 2014 for a new venture to reopen the doors at 19 Ranelagh. After all, Ranelagh is home to so many bustling restaurants, with an affluent clientele who like to live it large, accompanied by many many glasses of wine. The team behind the city centre Exchequer gastropub have clearly analysed the Ranaelgh demographics, with the result being the Exchequer Wine Bar. 

Personally, I really liked the remodeled interior, with lots of light pouring in at the rear of the room. Downstairs is a long bar lined with comfortable high stools and a mix of high and low tables. Upstairs is a lovely but small terraced area, which we checked out but declined due to the lack of space (even though it was only about 50% full). 

Inside the Exchequer Wine Bar

The Exchequer Wine Bar does offer cocktails, just like it's bigger brother in town, but we stuck to the wine list on this visit. As you would expect, there are plenty of wines available by the glass and bottle, with the added fun option of a mystery red to try out. Despite the good quality of the wines, a glass Saint Clair Pinot Noir (€9.90) for Himself and a glass of Daniel Chotard Sauvignon Blanc (€11) for me, I found the prices to be a little on the high side.

Wines by the glass… always good

The menu is a mix of casual eating options and several bigger main course. Essentially, it's somewhere between antipasti and tapas. Our first choice of the Spanish meat plate was not available, but we were extremely please with the Italian version (€16.95), featuring piles of San Danielle ham, coppa and Milano salami topped with large capers, pickles and toasts. A Spanish cheese plate (€14.95) held three large chunks of manchego, queso de tetilla and Valdeon along with fresh figs and fig chutney. 

All pretty decent so far, but things went a little south with the arrival of our next two courses. We chose a mixed selection of oysters, half tempura with pickled cucumber and half Asian style with chili, ginger, soy and cucumber (€13.95). Disappointingly, the oysters came on a half-melted bowl of ice, with the water slopping into the oysters, thus diluting the flavours. The much lauded house speciality of chorizo lollipops had been my first pick off the menu (€7.50), but I found them too heavy, especially when paired with the pata negra aoili. The heavy compressed ball of chorizo simply did not get a chance to cook enough, remaining slightly bitter and not releasing its characteristic smoky, oily flavours. I abandoned them half way through, preferring to have a decent night sleep rather than battle the inevitable consequences. 

Italian meat plate

Spanish cheese plate

Chorizo lollipops with pata negra aioli

Mixed selection of oysters

In perfect keeping with it's Ranelagh location, the Exchequer Wine Bar is perfectly poised and polished. After all, the Ranelagh-ati know their wine and foodstuffs and expect the best. There's even the added star attraction of knowing that rugby legend and co-owner Gordon D'Arcy may be spotted on the premises. But to be honest, my enthusiasm is slightly cooled by a somewhat pricey wine list and some simple execution errors. A simple rule of thumb with a new restaurant is to imagine yourself returning and we just couldn't see ourselves coming back for more tapas and wine. However, we did spot a tasty looking brunch menu on our way out, so never say never. 

The Exchequer Wine Bar, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 421 5780
URL: www.theexchequerwinebar.ie
Twitter: @theexchequer

[Review] Salt Lick, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

Back in my student days, I remember a cafe in Cork that used to open as a tapas bar in the evening. Apparently a visiting Spanish chef had struck a deal with the cafe owner to use the kitchen at night, which had the dual purpose of giving me delicious tapas as well as meaning that the venue was busy both day and night. 

From what I recall, the deal didn't last long (there was some gossip), but I thought the idea of a multitasking venue was clever. I can't really remember many examples of this taking place in Dublin, which is surprising considering the high cost of rents. Plus, it's a great opportunity for some young chefs to take charge of a kitchen, trial out dishes and test them on a willing audience. 

Given this, I'm delighted to see that every Friday and Saturday night, new venture Salt Lick will set up shop in Hobart's Cafe in Ranelagh. It is the brainchild of Brian McCarthy and William Toft and comes with a very simple idea. Every month will see a short, themed Table d'Hote menu (it's currently Taco month) with two courses for €20 or three for €25. As Salt Lick doesn't have a drinks license, you can mosy up with a bottle of your favourite wine or beer, with recommendations available from nearby Redmond's of Ranelagh. Alternatively, bring a bottle of your chosen spirit, and the clever Salt Lick people will mix you up a cocktail using their house ingredients. 

The simple menu meant that ordering was a doodle. My starter slate of beetroot, avocado puree, pickled fennel and crumbed feta was very much of the current fashion, but lifted away from the norm by the addition of the fennel. A portion of deep-fried cubed bacon was deliciously fatty and crunchy and each of the three dipping sauces (beetroot syrup, ginger beer glaze and sriracha aioli) was well-chosen to deal with the fattiness. This was the stuff that bacon dreams are made of.

(Apologies in advance for the extremely poor photos - it was pretty *romantic* in there).

Deep-fried bacon with dipping sauces

Mains consisted of a plate of three tacos, with 3 different taco flavours on offer. So, rather sensibly, we got one of each variety. The clear winner for both of us was the confit lamb belly with cannelloni bean, parmesan and olive smash with herby feta salad and streaky lamb belly bacon. Delicious flavours and lovely balance. Next was the classic braised pork taco with adobo, salsa, sour cream and tempura pickle. It had all the classic slow cooked pork flavours but with a little touch of freshness. Finally, there was the slow roast shin of beef, miso duxelle, horseradish creme fraiche, capers, rocket and crispy onion. Unfortunately, the capers completely dominated the beef and horseradish, leaving only saltiness. However, we loved the deeply crunchy fries and peppery rocket and parmesan salad served on the side.

Taco selection

We declined dessert (although the fried bread with dips and the three milk coffee & caramel pudding both sounded tempting) but we were delighted to receive some perfect little meringues with our bill for sweet nibbling.

The bill with those perfect little meringues

We didn't have time to organise ourselves with a bottle or naggin of spirits (which might have invoked memories of student days), so we didn't get to try the tasty sounding cocktail options at Salt Lick, and instead we made do with a bottle of prosecco. Next time out, I'm bringing a couple of bottles from the spirits shelf and I fully plan to let Salt Lick do their best. I love a good cocktail and I'm up for the challenge. 

Long and short, it wasn't 100% perfect at Salt Lick. But it's also worth stating that it was their first weekend in business. It was obvious from the (literal) dancing in the aisles that the staff are enthusiastic and enjoying their gig. In the end, there were more than enough high points (that deep-friend bacon, that sriracha aioli and those lovely fries) to make me want to return and sample another of their one-off menus. At €20 a head (for 2 courses), it's a good night out.

Salt Lick (at Hobart's), Ranelagh, Dublin 6

URL: saltlickdublin.tumblr.com

Twitter: @SaltLickDublin

[Review] Super Miss Sue, Drury Street, Dublin 2

The last time I was in Super Miss Sue was on their soft opening night, when the tables were turned over to press members and other people of food noteworthiness. It was a cold night in early January and the tall windows that are such a feature of this new restaurant were not much use. Glasses of fizzy prosecco and exquisitely fresh oysters with a wonderful ponzu dressing all went down with ease. It was all very good, but how would Super Miss Sue hold up when dining as a paying visitor?

We returned recently for a weekday lunch date. The tall windows along Lower Stephen Street that had looked out onto dreary darkness before were now filled with spring sunshine, lifting the entire room. The decor of ceiling fans, wood and brass fittings and backlit Campari bottles reminded me somehow of Spain and the finest tapas bars, altogether fitting for a seafood restaurant. The other end of the venue holds a posh fish'n'chips takeaway, which I've been informed is very good indeed. That, dear reader, will have to be tested another day.

Dining at Super Miss Sue

Classic interior of Super Miss Sue

There's an extensive menu with a two course lunch option for €25. Interestingly, the set menu is made up of the more higher priced items and I am nearly swayed by the sirloin flap steak with chimichurri and papas fritas. But we stick to our seafood guns. The Bloody Mary seafood cocktail is packed with mussels, clams, prawns and avocado and garnished with a rim of celery salt (regular menu price €14).  I can't abide celery, so I leave this dish to Himsef who polishes it off with delight. After all, it's rare that he gets a dish entirely to himself. Instead I dive into pan-seared scallops with sesame and honey truffle ponzu (€13). A little pile of seaweed salad and chargrilled lettuce are wonderful touches to the sweetly seared scallops. It's really really good.

Bloody Mary seafood cocktail

Scallops

Both of us choose grilled fish for mains, although the swordfish burger made a good showing. Himself chose mackerel "straight from the sea" simply grilled with olive oil, lemon and garlic (€12). In a miracle of fish preparation, there wasn't a single bone to be found. My choice of a whole grilled sea seabream was stuffed with lemon and herbs, and topped with crunchy samphire, garlic and capers (€18). After I deftly performed some surgery to remove the spine and head, I dove into the lemony, garlicky oil, crisp skin and soft flesh. It bought memories of grilled fish on the beach in Portugal whooshing through my head.

Grilled mackerel

Grilled whole sea bream

On our first visit, we had definitely enjoyed the hospitality offered by Super Miss Sue. Given that it's the latest venture from experienced Dublin restauranteur, John Farrell, it's no surprise that the whole thing has been well thought through. If you don't know who John Farrell is, he's the man behind Dillingers, 777 and the Butcher Grill. So therefore you can reasonably expect that Super Miss Sue will be cool, staffed with stylish people and doesn't take bookings for smaller groups. The current seafood venue is the first phase of the planned development with an upstairs restaurant and gin bar promised. 

The imagery of Super Miss Sue (featuring a sizzling Rozanna Purcell) is alluring. Miss Sue jumps off the page as a vivacious character in the mode of a bikini-wearing 1950's beach babe. According to her Twitter profile, she has a penchant for deep-sea divers and prosecco. All I'll say is that if a seafood and prosecco diet will garner me that voluptuous figure, then you can count me right in.

Super Miss Sue, Units 2-3 Drury Street Car Park, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 679 9009
URL: www.supermisssue.com
Twitter: @SuperMissSue

[Review] The Taphouse, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

I'm firmly of the opinion that the Celtic Tiger years ruined the Irish pub. Too many good traditional pubs were gutted and turned into identikit late-night bars with crap music and ride-you-sideways pricing. To be fair, there were many awful pubs out there too, some of which had toilets that were barely above the outside shed standard. But overall, somewhere along the way, we forgot about the pub experience.

Personally, I'm still coming to terms with the mauling handed out to the Oval in Cork, which was gentrified and velvet-curtained into the style preferred by Benny McCabe. The old Oval had a ceiling patinaed from years of tobacco smoke, a minidisc player with eclectic music, tables made from Singer sewing machines and you occasionally had to use a hard-rimmed keg as a seat when the pub was busy. Most importantly, it had character. (To be clear though, I like what McCabe has done in Cork, where he has nurtured much vibrancy in the city's night life. I just terribly miss the old Oval).

In the last few years, I've also become convinced that the Americans have nailed the art of the modern pub. While travelling around the US, both for work and personal reasons, I have drank and eaten in many venues that had a good selection of local beers, easy to eat but high quality bar food and a general all-round good atmosphere. So it's no surprise then to me that Irish-born, US businessman David Kelly is keen to bring that recipe for success back to Ireland.

Whiskey sour

Kelly is a partner in the US-based Rí Rá pub group and together with his partners, he has purchased and renovated the former Russell's of Ranelagh. Given how Ranelagh has boomed, even during the downturn, something must have been very wrong for Russell's to close. The interior, which always seemed cold and sterile to me before, now feels more like a gentleman's club with reclaimed parquet flooring, leather seating, dark wood and bookshelf-lined walls. It's dark but warmly lit, and immediately feels comfortable. The bar is fitted out with multiple TVs and screens for the sports fans, but the screen placement is quite clever as the end result feels more like a sitting room than a sports bar.

More importantly, the Taphouse has an inviting menu. It's the kind of food that suits drinking with a focus on smaller dishes which are high in flavour. On our second visit, Himself went for the fish tacos (€12) having tried the assorted sliders (€4 each or 3 for €10) on our first visit. Three tacos packed with chunks of seared fish and fresh vegetables came in a little holder,  while my ribs (€9) were accompanied with a fresh red cabbage slaw. Two large buckets of regular fries and sweet potato fries (€3 each) came with a malt vinegar mayo. The soft ribs were coated in that kind of generic barbecue sauce which is tasty enough not to offend anyone, while the slaw provided savoury crunch. 

Fish tacos

Regular and sweet potato fries

Ribs with slaw

American influences are also present in the service, which is efficient throughout. Many of the floor staff sport earpieces or walkie-talkies, allowing them to stay in communication even when the noise is at a peak. And boy, ever since the January paychecks came out, it has been busy. 

The Taphouse is most definitely a modern pub. It dares to sell beer in non-traditional sizes (i.e. not a pint!) and has a good selection of Irish craft beers, all displayed on chalkboards behind the bar. Infused spirits are used in house special cocktails, with a decent selection of simpler classic cocktails also on offer. It's all designed so that the well-trained staff can run the bar without needing to be experts. Take out 'growlers', which are very common in the US, allow beer fans to take their favourite drink home in a reusable container.

The Taphouse has hit a sweet spot. It understands what the market wants and it delivers it. More publicans could take note of this.

The Taphouse, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 491 3436
URL: htwww.facebook.com/taphousedublin
Twitter: @TapHouseDublin

[Review] Brioche, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

A lovely red brick cottage just off the main Ranelagh strip has been beautifully converted into the new location for Gavin McDonagh's Brioche. The concept here is French-style tasting plates, but in fairness to McDonagh, he's not a recent follower of this restaurant trend. He served up delectable little plates in the city centre Brioche Ce Soir, all from a tiny kitchen area used for daytime sandwich preparation.

But now, he's king of his own open kitchen, presiding over a small dining room and conservatory-type area. On the night we visited, the room was heaving with Ranelagh-rati who were packed in and downing wine at a pace reminiscent of the glory tiger days. This was in the middle of January, but no one was showing any signs of nervous waiting for that much anticipated January paycheck. It always seems as if it's a case of "laissez les bon temps rouler" in Ranelagh (to quote a friend of mine).

Pastrami of salmon

Killkeel Harbour Crab

Our friendly waiter didn't take any chances with us, making sure that we understood the tasting plates concept. I'd be interested in knowing if there isn't a Dublin diner who doesn't understand it at this point. The menu is varied and tempting and we chose our dishes with likely kitchen preparation times in mind. 

First out was the pastrami of salmon with pickled pear, ginger, soya and wasabi creme fraiche (€10.95) along with the Killkeel Harbour crab (€10.95). The little jabs of sour and sharp brought the rich salmon to life, while the helter-skelter arrangement of sweet crunchy apple and fennel lifted the delicate crab.

St Germain Foie Gras

St Germain foie gras, wrapped in Tipperary ham was served with duck fat-fried brioche (€12.95). Yes, you heard me right, duck fat-fried brioche. Doesn't that sound just wonderful? I'll have to leave assessment to Himself, but I really enjoyed the rich smoothness of the foie gras (Well who wouldn't?)

Pan-fried seabass with perfectly crispy skin came atop a pile of crunchy samphire, baby artichoke and tomato water and was, surprisingly one of the cheaper dishes on the menu (€9.95).

Pan-fried sea bass

Hop smoked duck breast

Our final dish of hop-smoked duck breast with muscat grape, chestnut purée and elderflower jus (€8.95) arrived at the same time as it did at the neighbouring table. One cooking effort for the chef, feeding two tables. Perfectly pink, it pleased my liking for smoky things.

Unlike most of our dining neighbours, we eschewed the bottle approach for two glasses of a lovely Blanco Nieva Verdejo at €7.50 per glass. To be frankly honest, I'm always amazed when I see couples drink two bottles of wine at dinner. Where's the enjoyment of the food when you're that blotto?

Brioche Ranelagh really is something special. Its quiet location on Elmwood Avenue makes it incredibly inviting, especially at night time when it casts warm light out onto the footpath. Inside, it's warm and bustling, the presentation is slick and the food is good. Ranelagh is a location where a good restaurant will be successful and it looks like McDonagh's move from the city centre will be richly rewarded.

Brioche, 51 Elmwood Avenue Lower, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)86 122 8828
URL: www.briocheranelagh.com
Twitter: @BriocheRanelagh

[Review] Aussie BBQ, Rathgar, Dublin 6

Last summer, I ate my way through a fair amount of Dublin's burgers in my research to find Dublin's Best Burger. Back then I promised that I would no longer hold back when I encountered a burger that I felt should be best avoided. Since then, I've only spoken out about one offender (at House bar on Leeson Street) but that's probably also because I'm being selective. I don't order burgers in many places any more simply because I think that place won't produce a good burger, and there's no point in wasting my time, money and simple enjoyment. I'm just not into masochism. 

One name that popped up time and time again on my radar was Aussie BBQ. This started out as  "Ireland's Only Authentic Barbecue Restaurant" on South Richmond Street and the menu certainly has some exotic items like crocodile and kangaroo steak. I did sample their burger during the course of my taste testing, but a bog standard bun and weak patty doomed them to a non-ranking in my results. 

But clearly things are going OK in the land of Australian barbecuing in Dublin as Aussie BBQ have opened a second outlet right in the heart of Rathgar. And one night, Himself had a hankering for a burger. Not a gourmet, posh burger but a proper burger. The kind that often accompanies several pints and the need to line your stomach. And so dear reader, we walked to Rathgar to check out Aussie BBQ. 

The Brizzy Burger

His Brizzy Burger (€6.00) is described was described as a half-pounder with chili relish, jack cheese, jalapeño peppers and the usual trimmings. To be honest, it looked just like a regular old chipper van burger with it's un-toasted, pasty white Bundy-type bun, but it hit the spot. A portion of Boomerang fries, double cooked apparently, were exceptionally good (€3.00). I am quite partial to leaving a bit of skin on fries and these didn't disappoint, especially as they appeared to be dusted with Aromat, or something similar. 

Disclaimer:  I love Aromat. Who cares that MSG is a primary ingredient? It's delicious stuff and takes me right back to memories of late-night cooking with my father. Long live Aromat, and especially its cousin, Meat Aromat which is great on a cheese toastie.

Boomerang Fries

I had chosen the Original Meat Box which is a half-pounder, corn-fed chicken fillet and your choice of organic pork sausage or pulled pork (€9.00). It arrived on a paper-lined wooden board, with a very disturbing looking dollop of sauce on top of the pulled pork. To be brutally honest, the look of the sauce nearly deterred me from trying it at all. Overall, the chicken fillet was the best thing on the board. Simply cooked, it was uncomplicated. The burger was grainy in texture and the taste reminded me of a Findus pancake from the poverty days of the 80s. I sometimes buy a particular type of food for my dwarf hamsters than contains dried meal worms, and this burger made me think of that. The dubious sauce on the pulled pork turned out to taste quite nice, which was required as the pork itself appeared to have been sitting around for a while. 

The Original Meat Box

You could argue that Aussie BBQ is just a fast food joint, but they do claim themselves to be an Australian Barbecue venue. You could argue that the prices are low, and I couldn't disagree with that. But that's about as far as I can go, bar those exceptional fries. Aussie BBQ is probably best suited to fulfill the post-pub stagger home. Don't expect any more than that. 

Aussie BBQ, 9 Orwell Road, Rathgar, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (01) 412 5555
URL: aussiebbq.ie