[Review] Featherblade, Dawson Street, Dublin 2

Eating out is something I really enjoy, and it's something I do a lot. Until recently, I wasn't paying much attention to pricing, but I've started to notice that once again eating out is gradually getting more expensive. Depending on where you go, you might be damn lucky to see change from €100 for two people. I recently updated my Dublin Top 10 Early Birds listing and I found that early birds were no longer as readily available or had increased in price. Walk around town on a Friday night, and the sense of party time is creeping back on the streets, resulting in busier restaurants and bars. Boom,  baby, boom.

So in the middle of all this gradual upwards pressure, I was excited to learn of a new restaurant which was selling steaks for €13. How could this be? Featherblade is a small steak taken from the shoulder blade of the cow. It likes to be cooked rare, or else it toughens and best of all, it's relatively inexpensive. Just like its namesake, newly opened restaurant Featherblade aims to stay true to the principle of simple and affordable.

Here the menu is pared back to the barest essentials, with a handful of starters,  steak for mains and a simple selection of sides. This short menu is presented on a  simple small stand on each table, or via suspended blackboards over the entrance.  In a similar manner to the menu, the interior is likewise pared back. The colour scheme is wood with black and while (white walls, black-topped tables and black thick padded cushions). 

[Review] Beeftro, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16

I think it's a brave thing to run a steakhouse in Ireland. We have some of the very best beef in the world, yet overall we have a strange attitude when it comes to cooking and eating steak. A lot of restaurants just don't seem to know what the words "rare" and "medium-rare" mean, while the concept of giving steak a good char is often lost in a sea of watery steaks that have only seen a tepid pan. Lots of restaurants claim to be steakhouses, but I've only eaten in a few that compare to the best in the US, despite our better meat. 

Beeftro is newly opened in the Pembroke District at Dundrum Town Centre and on paper, it has good credentials. Head chef, Ryan Bell, is formerly of the famous Shanahan's on the Green and all the 30 day matured steaks are from "stockman selected Irish cattle". The interior sits somewhere between American steakhouse and classic French bistro. There's white tiling, red brick walls, marble-topped tables, wooden floors and dark red leather seating. It's bright and fresh, yet dark and relaxed. It seems the perfect place to get stuck into some steak. The name, Beeftro, is a nifty play on words, and this continues with the well-designed graphics on the placemats and menus. 

Beeftro placemat

The interior at Beeftro

A wooden box of fresh bread and Glenilen butter arrived at the table shortly after ordering. It's great to see a proper creamy salty butter like Glenilen in a restaurant, rather than anemic unsalted margarine-y butter. Bonus marks for Beeftro on that front. We hadn't ordered any starters, so it wasn't too long at all before our steaks arrived. Both of us had chosen the 300g rib eye steak (€27.00), ordered medium rare. All steaks in Beeftro come with a choice of pureed potato included, while a sauce will cost an additional €1.50. I must say though that at this level of pricing, including the sauce with the steak price would be far more palatable.

300g ribeye steak

I really liked the fact that the steak arrived naked on the plate. No garnishes or distractions to take away from its charred exterior and beefy aroma. The steaks were quickly followed by the potatoes and sauces. For me it was bacon & crispy onion potato with Béarnaise sauce, while he chose the jalapeño chili and marrow melt. In the interest of having enough food for a decent review (!) I also ordered a side of corn fries (€3.50). 

From the minute that I cut into the steak, I knew that I was on a winner. I could feel the crispy charred exterior giving way to tender, soft meat, with just the perfect amount of pink. The thick, crunchy charred outside was well flavoured and full of smokiness, while the inner pieces of fat in the ribeye had been softened well. The potato purees were perfectly smooth and creamy, although he wasn't a big fan of the BBQ sauce on his mash. The standout sauce was his bone marrow melt or basically liquid fat, with rich salty meaty bits floating in it. So so good. 

Corn fries were essentially a kind of waffle chip with a slightly crispy coating. They were fluffy and nicely cooked,  but a bit of overkill given the large steaks and mash. A typical case of my eyes being bigger than my stomach. During the meal, we shared a 50cl carafe of Le Petit Pont, a Grenache and Vermentino blend, which was crisp and very drinkable  in the warm late evening sunshine (€18.00). 

Bacon and crispy onion potatoes with Bearnaise

Jalapeno BBQ potatoes with bone marrow melt

Corn fries

Beeftro is a very pleasing place to sit and enjoy a steak. Not only is the interior smart and contemporary, but the cooking of the steaks is also bang on. It's very much in the style of an American steakhouse, and I quite like that. You could stick a stetson on me and call me Desperate Dan.

I noticed that Beeftro also offer daily deals up to early evening time, making it a nice spot for a meaty lunch or early dinner. It's early days yet for Beeftro, and some (eejity) diners may be offput by the fact that it's located in Dundrum Town Centre. But I genuinely believe that it will become known as one of the best venues for steak in Dublin. Yee Haw!

Beeftro, Pembroke District, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16

Tel: +353 (0)1 298 8874
URL: www.beeftrodublin.com
Twitter: @BeeftroDublin



Follow my blog with Bloglovin

[Review] The Brasserie at The Marker Hotel, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2

Walking into the lobby at Dublin's new Marker Hotel is like stepping onto the set of a futuristic science-fiction film. The white, geometric ceiling arches overhead, sloping downwards to meet the floor. The furniture is minimal, sleek and chic, adding to the futuristic atmosphere and it all feels very 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Brasserie is located to the left upon entering, situated under that arching, organic ceiling.  I find it a little hard to distinguish the maître d's station from the supply station, but I suppose that these are the risks in design-lead hotels, where everything is a feature. 

The Brasserie restaurant firmly stakes its claim as having "a sharp focus on Irish, locally sourced produce". I visit on a blisteringly hot Friday, and through the windows I can see teenagers jumping into Grand Canal Dock. The lunchtime menu offers two courses for €22 or three for €26, surely making it an attractive business lunch option for the nearby tech giants. The large dining room is softly bright, with the bright outside light diffused through netted curtains. 

Picpoul de Pinet at the Marker Brasserie

Ham hock terrine with Pink Lady gel

My starter of ham hock terrine came with blobs of Pink Lady gel, precisely aligned bacon crumb, celery cress and horseradish. It looked pretty on the plate, but I quickly had all the celery cress pushed off to one side, where it could not infect the rest of the food. The terrine itself was dense and meaty with a nice ham flavour. Unfortunately, I found the rest of the dish off-balance. The crumb added texture, but not much else, while the Pink Lady gel and horseradish failed to deliver the punchy bite that the meat required. 

Things improved with my main course. I had chosen a 6oz rump of John Stones Co. beef with wild mushroom, tarragon and smoked garlic butter. It arrived looking handsome with a clump of peppery salad leaves and a portion of rosemary fries. I particularly liked that the wooden serving board had a channel cut around the edge, which caught all the meaty juices, stopping them from oozing onto the table. Despite all the wonderful sounding ingredients, the butter didn't really make an impact to the otherwise excellent steak. 

John Stone's Co Longford rump of beef

Gareth Mullins, formerly of the Merrion Hotel, is the Executive Chef here, and he has established the Marker as the first venue to sell "cronuts" in Ireland. For those of you unaware of the cronut, it's a hyrid croissant and doughnut pastry. In New York, people queue from the early hours of the morning to get cronuts from the original bakery. If you're interested, the Marker Hotel sells a limited number of boxes (of four) each morning.

Overall impressions of the Brasserie at the Marker Hotel? Despite the Irish produce, the Brasserie and the Marker itself have an international hotel feel. The sleek design and entire atmosphere just doesn't feel local, or induce any feelings of being in Dublin. If you had conked me over the head, and told me I had been transported to Stockholm, I would not have been surprised.

The presence of an OK starter and a very good steak combined to produce a decent lunch, especially at the €22 price point. Service was constantly checking in, sometimes to the point of the oppression, but always with a smile and pleasant attitude. The Brasserie is a great option for pre-theatre food and the entire Marker Hotel is a valiant effort to bring some life to Grand Canal Square. Is it going to be enough?

The Marker Hotel, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 687 5100
URL: www.themarkerhoteldublin.com
Twitter: @themarkerhotel

[Review] The Morrison Grill, Ormond Quay, Dublin 1

A while back the Morrison Hotel on Ormond Quay underwent a major makeover and moved under the umbrella of the Doubletree by Hilton brand. One of the signature features of the Doubletree brand is receiving a freshly baked cookie upon checkin. We stayed recently at the Doubletree in Amsterdam and the glorious smell of those cookies nearly droze me into a frenzy due to the cruelness of not eating wheat. Colleagues who have stayed at the Morrison assure me that cookies are available here also.

For those of you who may remember the old layout, the lobby area has changed significantly. It's now a single open space, subdivided into dining & drinking areas. To the left is the bar, Quay 14, with a cocktail list full of Dublin and Irish song-themed drinks. And to the right is the Morrison Grill, a bright and relaxed dining space, with a menu that is described as "refined rustic". The kitchen is home to a Josper Grill, which is a combined charcoal grill and oven that can reach temperatures of 500C. It's the most macho sounding oven I've ever come across. Suck on that standard fan oven.

The place settings are suitably retro, and they don't look out of place in the sleek and hip lobby. There is a set lunch menu with 2 courses for €20 or 3 for €25. However, none of the options jumped out at men (chicken, salmon or gnocchi for mains), so I chose from the à la carte menu. In addition, as it's a Friday and I have the day off, I also choose a Final Straw cocktail, which is a mix of bison grass vodka, vermouth, apple juice and prosecco (€9.50). 

Retro style place setting at the Morrison Grill

A cooling Final Straw cocktail

My starter of Richard Doyle's potted pork comes in an elaborate arrangement of glass jar, toast rack, mini cast iron skillet and a wooden board (€7.50). This must be a trial of strength and balance for the waiting staff and personally, I could have done without the toast rack which tore a slice when I attempted to extract one from its grip. 

As a big fan of all things porcine, I liked the potted pork very much. The jar was full to the brim and could easily act as a main meal on its own, especially when bulked out with the thick slices of bread and accompanying homemade pickled vegetables. Thankfully, it was served cool, as opposed to cold, which gave the dense meaty strands a chance to display their flavour. Blobs of mustard and apple sauce add some bite and zing and I could have done with more of them.

Richard Doyle's potted pork 

Homemade pickled veg to accompany the potted pork

And then it was time for the star attraction. As you'd expect in a restaurant with such a manly grill, there are lots of grilled meats on offer. It would feel a crime to order something not cooked in the searing magnificence of the Josper grill. My choice is the 9oz ribeye, dry aged on the bone for 28 days and served with mixed leaves and sumo chips (which I ask to be replaced with skinny fries) and a choice of sauce (€25). Fries and steak demand béarnaise, so that is what I order. 

Other steak options range from a flat iron (€22) to the "I will never understand why anyone orders it" fillet steak (€29). A 16oz bone-in tomahawk ribeye steak for two weighs in at €45, making it a good choice for carnivorous couples or bromance buddies. First impressions of my ribeye were solid, with a good char in evidence. It came medium rare, as ordered, and I tucked in with the joy that a good steak creates. The fries were lacklustre, but the peppery dressed salad leaves were a good addition.

9oz ribeye steak

Chef John O'Leary hails from Kerry, and when I heard his accent I was whisked home, close to the Cork-Kerry bounds. John is a fan of hearty, earthy Irish dishes and the Morrison Grill serves brown bread made using his grandmother's recipe. He has a big commitment to sourcing Irish produce, with regular seasonal updates to the menus. Hotel restaurants can be grim places at times, and it really is wonderful to see such a venue stepping up to the mark by offering Irish, seasonal produce.

I very much enjoyed my lunch at the Morrison, even if I did feel that everyone who passed through the lobby was staring into my plate. A little more privacy for the diners might not be a bad idea. The food here is sure to be enjoyed by the American and foreign guests that the Doubletree brand will attract, hopefully helping raise the profile of Irish cooking. 

The Morrison Grill, The Morrison Hotel, Ormond Quay, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)1 887 2400
URL: www.morrisonhotel.ie/en/morrison-grill.html
Twitter: @MorrisonGrill and @morrisondublin

The Bovine Menu at La Brasserie, Bon Appetit

Early in 2012, Malahide restaurant Bon Appetit launched a teaser campaign on both Twitter and their website hinting that a new offering, Bovine Bon Appetit, was on the way. The name and the cow logo definitely suggested a beefy slant, but it took a while before the full details emerged.

The Bovine concept turned out to be pretty simple - a diverse selection of beef cuts, sourced from the  most flavourful breeds of rare cattle. The menu, or "beef bible" lists detailed notes on breeds, types of cuts, aging, marbling, cooking temperatures and even tasting guidelines. Pride of place in this new lineup is a Grade 9 Wagyu steak, offered initially at cost price. All I can say is that it didn't take me long to book a table.

The BIL and his wife joined us for dinner in La Brasserie to celebrate a new job for one of us. We kicked off with some aperitifs in Le Bon Vin, the tapas and wine bar located on the ground floor of Bon Appetit. Once our table was ready, we were guided downstairs to La Brasserie, where we were presented with both La Brasserie and Bovine menus. There was no question that for the majority of us steak was going to be ordered. The only question left to be answered was which cut would be selected. The Popeseye (the Butcher's Secret), the wing rib (the Well Hung) or the ribeye (the Trendy Boy) all sounded tempting, while the Wagyu Sirloin (aka The Big Spender) ruled supreme.

In anticipation of a big meal, the two of us shared a starter of salt cod scotch egg (€9.50). A perfectly runny egg yolk was nestled inside a shell of cod and potato which had been fried until crispy golden. 

Scotch egg with cod

Just one member of our party of four had chosen to dine from the regular La Brasserie menu, choosing the sliders (€24.00). This comprised three perfectly constructed mini-burgers, made from beef, lamb and venison. These little guys must have tasted well, based on the comments of "best beef burger ever", followed by "best lamb burger ever" we heard issuing from that side of the table.

Slider burgers at La Brasserie

Both of us ladies had pushed the boat out by ordering the 8oz/225g Wagyu sirloin (€49.50). I'd never had the privilege of indulging in this carnivore delight before, so I grasped the opportunity to enjoy it at cost. I asked for the chef to cook it as he saw fit (my normal tastes run to blue or rare), and I would describe the end result as medium rare. Each steak on the Bovine menu comes with one accompanying sauce, so I went for my all-time favourite of Béarnaise, which I supplemented with an additional order of indulgent truffle butter.

The Wagyu sirloin is the single most expensive menu item I've ever ordered, so I really wanted it to live up to its promise. Well, I can tell you that it is wonderfully tender, with a subtle taste that is distinctly different from other steaks. The intense marbling that is typical of the breed produces a texture that is slightly reminiscent of foie gras. In short, it's flipping delicious. 

Himself ordered the 250g ribeye steak aged 60 days (€24.00) which was beautifully cooked with all the flavour that one expects from a juicy fatty ribeye. To round out the steaks, we also ordered some of the wonderful sounding side dishes. We might possibly have over-indulged with creamed spinach with Gruyère (€4.50), creamed sweetcorn (€3.50), chips (€3.95) and finally, broccoli Hollandaise (€3.50)

Wagyu sirloin steak with accompanying butters

Creamed sweetcorn side

At this point in the meal, I was defeated by beef, and I settled for a mint tea made with fresh leaves (€3.50). However, some of the others bravely soldiered on and ordered desserts. The star dessert was a vanilla cheesecake (€7.50) served very prettily in a glass jar with a crumble base and topped by fresh fruits and berries. Utterly simple but delicious. Special mention has to go to a 2007 Monbazillac De Haute Montlong dessert wine which was a deep concentrated gold, with more spice and less sweetness than a Sauternes.

Cheesecake at La Brasserie

This was my second time dining at Oliver Dunne's Malahide kingdom, and I have to say that it was another remarkable experience. Service was attentive and charming throughout the whole night. We were in the mood to celebrate (which our final bill reflected, ouch!) and we were delighted by the offer of a free round of after-dinner drinks. 

Bon Appetit continues to offer wonderful value to diners with Early Bird and special menus in both the main restaurant and La Brasserie. The Bovine menu does offer a great selection of prices, meaning that it's possible to enjoy some really good steak without breaking the bank. 

La Brasserie at Bon Appetit, St Jame's Terrace, Malahide, Co Dublin
Tel: +353 (0)1 845 0314
URL: www.bonappetit.ie
Twitter: @bonappbovine @bonappmalahide

[Review] Bear, South William St., Dublin 2

I wonder why Dublin restauranteur Joe Macken and Irish international rugby player Jamie Heaslip decided to call their new joint venture "Bear"? A vision of carnivore masculinity perhaps? In fairness, this unholy alliance is not totally unexpected given the proclivity displayed by Leinster rugby players for the protein-fest burgers and chicken served in Macken's Jo'burger and Crackbird.

Bear is all about the beef, although other meats do get a look in. Old-style cuts such as bavette, onglet and flank are front and centre here, all cooked on the grill or passed through the impressive Imperial broiler, where an intense infrared radiant heat finishes steaks to perfection. 

You have been warned!!

The premises on South William Street was home to Crackbird, before its move to Dame St, but it has received a real facelift to prepare for Bear. A bar has been installed that runs the length of the upper area, the walls are darker, the ceiling is finished and it's all far more grown-up. One consistent complaint from my peers about Crackbird was in relation to the hipster staff, but the wait staff at Bear are less "Too kool for skool" and it's all the better for it. However, Bear maintains certain familiar themes such as a no reservations policy, low hanging bare bulbs and large communal tables.

Dark and chic interior

Once we'd read through the menu, we quickly got an order into the kitchen for the flank steak for two (€34.95), which would take 30 minutes to cook.  That done, we went back to the start and ordered some toasts to keep us occupied. However, despite all this intense planning on our part, the steak was still the first to arrive. It was even taken back from our table, as no one could believe that it would be out so fast. But it was ours, and it was quickly followed by our starter dishes.

A spicy pork, carrot & pistachio slice (€5.95) was delicious despite not being spicy, served with a homemade chutney. A little pot of smoked haddock skordalia (€5.95) featured generous haddock chunks mixed with mashed potato but it just didn't shine in the same manner as the pork terrine. For the money, these were two generous portions.

After the toasts, we turned our attention to the steak. It was served sliced, in it's own juices, with a scattering of salt flakes, and two Opinel steak knives tucked underneath. The outside bits were cooked through, but the inside remained pink and juicy and Joe recommended that we start from the inside out.  It was incredibly juicy, tender and flavoursome. We had ordered a selection of sauces (€2 each or three for €5), so we slathered on rich oily chimichuri, red wine & tarragon butter and an intense orange habanero. In addition, we also received a little pot of creamed fresh horseradish.

Spicy pork, carrot and pistachio slice

The flank steak for two

In anticipation of the carnivore orgy, we ordered just a single side between the two of us. But we chose big, plumping for the millionaire fries (€6.50).  These are not regular fries, but instead are gently fried, golden blocks of sliced dauphinoise potatoes, which are surprisingly not heavy at all, but extremely moreish.

Millionaire fries (a new dimension of gratin)

Belly full - compliments to the chef

After eating, Joe himself came over to chat and give us a view of the world through Bear-Vision glasses. There are plans to serve breakfast, targeting people on their way to work with a selection of light, office-friendly dishes. The bar will offer daily special sandwiches and salad, limited to just one option per day. And there was even mention of a bakery! The more grown-up attitude shown by Bear will expand to include changing monthly wine specials and perhaps a few surprises.

I was kindly allowed to take some photos of the kitchen and pass, including the beating Bear heart, the special Imperial broiler. Standing near it, I was struck by the intensity of the heat - working the grill at Bear must be like taking several Bikram yoga classes each and every night.

The team at work in the Bear kitchen 

Imperial - where the magic happens

Delicious sauces waiting to go

The total for our meal came to €60.85, including a small glass of pilsner. In my opinion, this was quite good value for the food we enjoyed. Bear isn't a steakhouse in the traditional sense, but a modern lighter take. The addition of toasts and the trademark creative sauces and sides make it fun, as well as deliciously tasty.

Bear is a perfect continuation of the creativity that is Joe Macken. But it's also deadly serious, with plans to target the breakfast and lunch markets. Bear is most definitely for grown-ups (although kids are welcome).

A final word of warning, please use caution when googling "Bear Dublin"...

Bear, 34 South William St, Dublin 2
URL: www.joburger.ie
Twitter: @BEARdublin

Gourmet Burger Company, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

It was Friday evening, and we were faced with a dilemma - what to do with ourselves. I'd had a stressed week at work, which when combined with two hours of daily driving, means that I'd finished the week tired and drained. I'd managed to leave an hour early for the weekend, and all I wanted to do was to relax and not do anything strenuous, but he wanted to get out of the house for a bit. As a result, we decided to go out but stay local, and after a quick Luas trip, we were in Ranelagh.

A few days earlier, I had purchased a Living Social voucher for the Gourmet Burger Comapny which had offered four beers or glasses of wine with a bowl of buffalo wings (€14) or two steaks, salads and glasses of wine (€27). As I'd been to Gourmet Burger before for burgers, I  went for the steak voucher. I hadn't reckoned on using it so soon after purchasing, but it fitted nicely with our desire for an easy evening.

Gourmet Burger Company is one of those fancy burger joints that seemed to appear everywhere a few years ago, but it has the distinction of trying harder than its competitors. We took a seat close to the window, and I did take some small pleasure in watching all the late commuters on their drive home. It felt good to be home and not out on the road in the dusky light. Himself asked if  he could swap a glass of wine for a beer, but our waiter informed us that this was not possible. Not to mind, and a Flensburger Pilsener beer was ordered, which comes in a flip-top bottle (€6).  I chose a glass of the house white wine, which was a very serviceable Sauvignon Blanc.

Flensburger Pilsener beer at Gourmet Burger Company

I'd heard great things about the chicken wings at Gourmet Burger Company, so we decided to share a bowl as a starter to our steaks (€9.75). With several sauces to choose from, we went for the Suicidal sauce, which turned out to be just right. Not too hot but still with plenty of tang and bite, the wings came served with an unfortunately dull blue cheese dip and crunchy batons of carrot and celery. The portion size was extremely generous and one bowl of these wings would easily serve as a meal in its own right. If these was a best wings in Dublin competition, these would be serious contenders.

Chicken wings at Gourmet Burger Company

Our steaks came served on a half-ciabatta, with garlic mayonnaise, fresh horseradish and portobello mushroom. Perfectly cooked, they were juicy and well-sized. A simply dressed side salad comprised the advertised "salad" from the voucher. Being greedy gits, and not realising our own limitations, we had also ordered a side of hand cut fries (€3.40) which were excellent chips, crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside. 

Grilled rib eye steak at Gourmet Burger Company

We took our time over dinner and service was excellent throughout, managing that fine line between friendliness and over-familiarity. The decor is simple and clean, with dark wood against lime green walls,  leather seats and little amusing motifs featuring the little character from the branding. All burgers are 100% Irish organic beef, and if you're looking for something a little bit different, it's even possible to enjoy a Kobe beef burger. 

Our total bill came to €19.15, once our voucher had been deducted. Ranelagh is a suburb that demands sophistication, particularly in its restaurants, and Gourmet Burger Company more than meets these requirements. Personally, I'm already contemplating another trip for some more of those spicy chicken wings.

Gourmet Burger Company, 97 Ranelagh Road, Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 497 7821
URL: ww.gourmetburgercompany.ie
Twitter: @GourmetBurger

The Butcher Grill, Ranelagh

Himself surprised me a while back by telling me that he was taking us out for dinner. That's not the normal chain of command for us, but I was pleased by his choice of The Butcher Grill in Ranelagh. This relatively new venue promises the finest cuts of meat cooked over a wood smoked grill. It's part of the booming restaurant scene in Ranelagh and is a sister restaurant to Dillinger's further up the road. 

First impressions of the restaurant are cosy. And not in a good way. They have packed in too many tables in this too small restaurant for it to be truly comfortable. We were seated at a table for 2, separated from the next table by 3 inches. in fact, when the couple occupying the table next to us arrived, we introduced ourselves to them. We figured that as we were going to be in each other's faces for the next period of time, that it would be rather rude not to become acquainted. We might have scared them a little. 

Next to us, a table for 4 sat in the window bay, but one of the benches is more suitable for one person of wide girth rather than two more regular pilates-toned D4ites. In addition, the seats are high and narrow and you can never truly relax. Perhaps the pilates-regulars like this, as the required thigh clenching to keep you on your seat, means that you continue your fitness routine long after you've left the gym.

At the Butcher Grill

However, it was a lovely sunny Sunday evening, and the light was shining in the windows, putting the restaurant to best effect. The walls are tiled in while butcher tiles, featuring home ecconomics-style diagrams of meat cuts and joints. Wine is listed by the glass and bottle on the walls (although the prices per glass made me gasp a little). We had already decided in advance that we were going to have the  Cote de Beouf (for 2 people, requiring 40 mins to cook), so we settled in with a basket of bread and good olive oil. I had chosen a fresh glass of Bovine I wine  for €6 (better known as an Italian Falanghina) while himself ordered an old-fashioned cocktail as an aperitif (later pronounced to be good). When we later received the bill, this cocktail turned out to cost a gobsmacking €10.

Our starters arrived quickly, himself having the Tuna Carpaccio and me going for the caesar salad with grilled prawns. The carpaccio featured two large thin slices of tuna, served on flasky tortillas with a mexican-style avocado salsa. It was a generous starter, and tasty. My salad featured a skewer of grilled, shelled prawns, served with heads on. It seemed as if they had been flavoured with paprika and the delicious juices were mingling with the dressing on the salad. One complain here is that I never received a bowl of lemon water to clean my hands, as gettings the prawns off the skewer and de-heading was a juicy business. However, the end result was delicious.

Tuna Carpaccio

Grilled prawn Caesar salad

We had ordered our Cote de Bouef rare and we were pleasantly surprised when it arrived quickly at the table. Granted, we had arrived at a quiet time in the restaurant's evening service, and as the place filled up, service definitely appeared to slow down. The steak came served on a wooden board, oozing juices and with a knob of garlic butter and thick sage onion rings resting on top. Smoky beans come as a standard side, which we complimented with french fries at €4 (served in the ubiquitous bucket). If you're a meat-lover, then you won't be disappointed by the steak here. It was silky smooth in the middle, tasty and juicy, with a slightly smoked taste. It was the standard to which all steak restaurants should aspire, but at €50, it is not cheap.The smoky beans didn't do a whole lot for me and could well be left out from the dish.

Cote de Boeuf for 2 with garlic butter and onion rings

Service throughout was slightly erratic, and overly in-your-face-friendly at times. But that's kind of inevitable in these close quarters. The food was very good and I was really pleased with my glass of wine. But with a total bill in excess of €90 for two courses each and two drinks with one additional side (and a lot of thigh-clenching to stay on my seat), it's a bit too expensive for a casual dining experience. 

The Butcher Grill, 92 Ranelagh Village, Dublin 6. (01) 498 1805

Stoop & Stoop Eetcafe - Amsterdam

Stoop & Stoop is a very typical Dutch eetcafe, located off Leidsestraat, in the centre of Amsterdam. Eetcafes are a cross between pubs and restaurants and often serve straightforward food - in Stoop & Stoop, I enjoyed a fantastic rib eye steak served with garlic butter and accompanied with salad and fries.  Total cost along with a glass of house white wine was E19.10. Well recommended for any visitors to the city.

Stoop & Stoop, Lange leidsedwarsstraat 82, Amsterdam 1017 NM. +31 (0)20 6200 982