[Review] Brick Lane, South Main Street, Cork

I've groused about the current brunch trend in previous blog posts, as I'm feeling completely overrun by the brunch-mania that's sweeping over the capital. But like all good things, you don't really realise how good you have it until you no longer have it. And while brunch may be two-a-penny in Dublin city, it's still got some way to go in Cork City.

For many years now, my weekends at home in Cork have been slightly diminished by the lack of options for a good Sunday breakfast or brunch. But the situation is much changed down Leeside, and slowly but surely, Sunday options are improving. (By the way, for a list of all breakfast options in Cork, check out this blog post from 40 Shades of Life). 

Brick Lane sits at that very mysterious point where North Main Street transitions to South Main Street. It occupies the premises that I knew in my student days as Rosie O'Grady's and which my younger sisters knew as The Classic. In the first phase of the Classic development, the interior has been completely overhauled in the modern style of mis-matched vintage chic. With the front windows wide open, the parquet flooring was glowing in the morning sunshine, making the venue feel welcoming and comfortable.

The bar at the new Brick Lane

Vintage doors at Brick Lane

The brunch menu is pretty straightforward at first glance but a deeper reading reveals some touches of brilliance. Firstly, there is no bacon, but honest-to-god, rashers. Other little touches appear like the addition of cinnamon to waffles or pancetta and sourdough French toast to an eggs Benedict. The menu also clearly calls out the price for additional orders (such as rashers, sourdough toast or maple syrup). 

Sister No 1 chooses the Monte Cristo Benedict (€8.50) which consists of sourdough French toast topped with crispy pancetta, Hegarty's cheese, free-range poached eggs and a creamy hollandaise sauce. Sister No 2 chooses the chunky Belgium cinnamon waffles with crispy, smoked thick rashers and maple syrup which is great value at just €7.00. 

For myself, I choose the potato chorizo breakfast (€8.50) which is quite similar to one of my favourite dishes to cook at home. A large bowl of sautéed potatoes mixed with spinach, chorizo and sweetened with a drizzle of maple syrup is topped with a softly fried egg. It's utterly delicious, right down to the small, golden-brown crispy bits sitting at the bottom of the bowl.

Monte Cristo Benedict (with rashers)

Potato chorizo breakfast

Belgium cinnamon waffles with rashers and maple syrup

Brunch was finished off with a sample of superb pistachio shortbreads and an incredible dense, chewy peanut butter brownie. Service is just the right level of friendly throughout (as you'd expect in Cork) and we really enjoy our meal. The only exception is the bizarre stuffed ferret (?) which stares at us from within his cage. Sometimes vintage chic just goes a little overboard.

We arrived for brunch at approximately 10.30 am and even at that time, there were groups of diners scattered around the bar and tables. It seems pretty clear that there's a market in Cork for early morning brunching and Brick Lane is benefiting. If the casual and comfortable vibe is continued throughout the day and into the nighttime, it's pretty easy to see Brick Lane being a success in Cork City. 

Brick Lane, 1-3 South Main Street, Cork.
Tel: +353 (0)87 271 0710
URL: bricklane.ie
Twitter: @Bricklanecork

[Review] Boqueria, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7

UPDATE: Boquera has since left its Stoneybatter location and moved north to 30 Church Street, Howth. 

Inspired by the world famous "La Boqueria" market in Barcelona, the newly opened Boqueria Tapas and Gastro restaurant in Stoneybatter promises to deliver dishes made from locally sourced ingredients cooked with love. The man in the kitchen is chef Matt Fuller, who has spent time cooking in Ireland at L'Ecrivain, Salon des Saveurs (one of the few restaurants I miss in Dublin) and Citron at the Fitzwilliam, as well as spending several years cooking in Valencia, Spain, where it's said that Ferran Adria was quite a fan.

We had arranged to meet several family members for Saturday dinner at Boqueria and, as our taxi headed across the river Liffey and up through Stoneybatter, I wondered if we would be getting tapas or tapas concept. The first thing I learned is that Boqueria is already proving very popular with diners being turned away due to no space at the inn, although several were able to return later in the evening when tables had emptied. The second thing I learned is that the dining room is attractively clean and simple, with cream walls and bright chairs. The third thing I learned is that the menu reads wonderfully well, with an equally imaginative wine list. 

With 6 of us at the table, we ended up ordering a substantial amount of dishes from the menu. Interestingly, we weren't allowed order for a short while, in order to give the kitchen time to process the existing orders. In order to keep us occupied, we ordered bowls of olives (€3.50) and baskets of bread with flavoured butters and wonderful olive oil (€4.50), along with a superb Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva (€48) and a Louro de Bolo Godello (€39).  

2oz Dexter beef burger

Lamb belly with Manchego cheese 

Pork cheeks with caramelised pineapple

After a short while, our dishes started to flow from the kitchen.  Crispy cubes of fried potato were artfully arranged on a slate platter with stripes of spicy tomato sauce and dots of roast garlic mayo (€5.00). The perfect presentation on this simple dish indicated that we were dealing with a kitchen that was aiming for more than just good. Irish rare breed pork cheeks were cleverly paired with tangy caramelised pineapple (€7.00) while a mini burger made from Dexter beef came with a small portion of chunky chips (€5.50). Goatsbridge rainbow trout starred in a vibrant bright dish with fennel velouté and fruit salad (€7.50) while the humble mackerel was enhanced by apple and fennel salad (€6.50). 

The intriguing lamb belly "San Jacobo" with manchego cheese (lamb with cheese!) had to be ordered and arrived as breaded portions of soft lamb and melting cheese (€7.50). A sublime pea risotto was a perfect shade of gentle green topped with shreds of smoked pork belly (€6.50) and perfect scallops came with delicious tarragon rosti and muted passion fruit (€12.00). There were many more dishes enjoyed and savoured, but I think you get the picture. 

Barrel chips with tomato sauce and garlic mayo

Pea risotto with smoked pork belly

Cured Goatsbridge rainbow trout with fennel velouté and fruit

Chargrilled tuna with pistachio and mango

The dessert menu is equally tempting with standout dishes such as a tantalising strawberry and basil soup (€7.50) and a wonderful combination of chocolate mousse, bright olive oil and flakes of crunchy sea salt (€7.50). Unfortunately, there was no sweet wine selection when we dined, but I am told that a selection will be available shortly. If the main wine menu is any indicator, I'm already looking forward. 

Mel y mato with fresh fruit

Chocolate mousse with olive oil and candied bread

The word "tapas" has definitely been enthusiastically embraced by the restaurant industry lately. Tapas now rarely means small Spanish dishes, but instead it is now used largely to mean small plates and food designed for mixing and sharing. How many times have you been faced with an enthusiastic waiter who has offered to explain the restaurant concept to you, only for him to start with the now-dreaded words "Our food is served tapas style…."? Sigh…

Boqueria isn't traditional tapas; there are no pintxos, sardines or bits of toasty bread here. It's what I call tapas-style dining, but also very much influenced by traditional tapas and Spanish cooking. It's thoroughly classy, which is no surprise given the pedigree of the chef. But it's also enhanced by the friendliness and chattiness of the superb staff who clearly enjoy working there. Post-dinner analysis on the way home was of the opinion that we had just dined in a standout spot. 

My single regret is that I think that having 6 of us gathered around the table was just too much. Everybody wanted a bit of everything, which largely meant that no one got to have enough of any one thing. Some dishes were vigorously defended from intruding forks, but I think that the best way forward is to visit as part of a couple or smaller group. In my mind, there's no doubt about it, this is going to be a hot restaurant for 2015. Get there while you still can. 

Boqueria, 3 Prussia Street, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7
Tel: +353 (0)1 868 3575
URL: www.boqueria.ie
Twitter: @BoqueriaDublin
Instagram: @boqueriadublin

[Review] Bread & Bones, Dublin 1

During the week, I fell ill with one of those 24 hour bugs that flashes through you. It disappears as quick as it arrives, but the aftermath leaves you feeling tired and drained. Over the course of the day, I drank lots of water and some tea, but I couldn't bring myself to look at food. Later in the day though, I was hungry and I wanted something that would help set me right. To be accurate, I felt in need of some pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) or something similar. 

Bread & Bones is a newly opened on Dublin's Northside, just a stone's throw from the Jervis Centre and Luas stop. Essentially it's a street food restaurant serving a fashionable mix of ramen soups, steamed buns (bao) and banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches). The noodle soups are served in homemade bone broths, hence the moniker Bread & Bones. 

A few small tables are lined up outside in the afternoon sunshine with diners happily tucking in. The inside of the restaurant is quieter, with several large mismatched tables scattered around and other smaller tables tucked into corners. It's a wide open space, with industrial height ceilings and a large open kitchen behind a high counter. The decor theme is manga rustic and the staff are warmly friendly without being off-putting. Posters advertising late evening dj sets make it clear that evening time is fun time at Bread & Bones. 

The open kitchen at Bread & Bones

Himself opted for the lunchtime offer of 3 bao (oriental steamed buns) for €15, or individually available at €5.50 each. The lunchtime menu offers a choose of 5 different fillings and we ended up with roasted pork belly, teriyaki chicken and panko crusted tiger prawn versions. The bao themselves are delicately soft, sweetly doughy and perfectly sized to be demolished in 3-4 mouthfuls. The addition of sauces such as chili mayo or hoisin sauce and tangy vegetable pickles adds crunch and flavour to the buns. Each one is a hit. 

Bao at Bread & Bones

Roasted pork belly boa with carrot pickle, peanuts and hoisin sauce

Bone broths may not look the prettiest at times, but they are gloriously restorative. When done well, they often have a little fat floating on the surface and are full of meaty flavour. Bread & Bones make their own broths and I choose the roasted pork belly soup to help sooth my insides (€10). A medium sized bowl came filled with rice noodles, soft slices of roasted pork belly, half of a soft boiled egg, bamboo and bright green scallions for some crunch. 

Even though I was still slightly under the weather, I shook in some generous amounts of chili oil and bright red Sriracha sauce, picked up my chopsticks and ladle and got stuck in. With each slurpful, I could feel myself improving, slowly returning to centre. It was just the right tonic for my ails. 

Pork belly noodle soup

Tap water is bought to our tables in large bottles, and a quick look at the short wine list reveals some very interesting, modern options. Any young hip restaurant isn't complete without a craft beer selection and Bread & Bones has a decent listing of Irish and international beers and ciders. 

Bread & Bones has hit the proverbial nail on the proverbial head. It's fun, casual, tasty and reasonably healthy. The large open space means that it's particularly child-friendly, but I found it to be everyone-friendly. The grand total for lunch, including a glass of crisp Picpoul de Pinet and a soft drink, came to a wallet-friendly €33.50. Mission accomplished.  

Bread & Bones, 7 Millennium Walkway, Dublin 1
Tel: +353 (0)85 215 2408
URL: breadandbones.ie
Twitter: @Breadandbonesir
Instagram: @breadandbones

[Review] La Bodega, Ranelagh, Dublin 6

Some Sundays are made for roast dinners and some Sundays are made for snacking. As we strolled up Ranelagh, heading northwards, we were definitely in the mood for grazing and a cleverly positioned blackboard advertising an outdoors heated terrace at La Bodega proved the snare.

We've been to La Bodega several times and while I like the comfortably darkened interior with its mismatched seating, a summer Sunday evening felt more suitable to eating al fresco. On Sundays, live guitar music fills the dining room, gently wrapping the diners in the magic of Spain. The corridor out to the terrace passes the kitchen area but then opens up in a lovely area with raised decking, faux grass, fairy lights and lanterns. Baskets of rugs are positioned around the space so that diners can wrap themselves up when evenings get too cold. 

The outdoor heated terrace at La Bodega

The menu at La Bodega is pretty typical tapas fare and we ordered with gusto. A generous portion of Garbanzas con morcilla (chickpeas cooked with Spanish black pudding €6.50) kicked us off, quickly followed by my favourite patatas bravas (deep fried cubes of potato with spicy sauce €5.00). 

Other dishes followed in swift succession from the kitchen including pan Catalan (crunchy bread rubbed with tomato and topped with thick jamon €5.00) and another vegetarian favourite habas con jamon (pan-fried broad beans with jamon €6.00). Our little feast was rounded out by a portion of gambas al ajillo (prawns fried with garlic €7.95), with additional bread ordered from the kitchen for soaking up of the tasty juices.

Garbanzas con morcilla 

Pan Catalan

Patatas bravas

Habas con Jamón

Gambas con ajillo

It's been a long time since I was in Madrid, but when I saw the traditional dish of churros served with liquid dark chocolate, I was hooked (€6.00). Freshly fried sticks of dough, coated in granulated sugar and dipped into slightly bitter chocolate is an experience everyone should try at least once. It's a recipe for diabetic disaster, but once every so often won't hurt, right?

Churros con chocolate

It's worth mentioning that many of the tapas at La Bodega are available in two sizes, the regular size and the larger racion. I personally found the regular size to be more than enough, so I'd recommend reserving the racion portions for the hungrier days.

Any restaurant that survives for a length of time in Ranelagh is clearly doing something right. While not wildly exciting in its selection of tapas, La Bodega produces a solid, tasty selection of classic tapas, topped up with live guitar music and a comfortable interior. The new heated terrace will have the dual effect of increasing dining space while offering an attractive option for wine on a summer evening. Viva la España!

La Bodega, 93 Ranelagh, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 497 5577
URL: www.labodega.ie
Twitter: @labodegaranelag

[Review] Sunday Pizza and Cocktail at Osteria Lucio

A short post this week, but it's one definitely worth sharing. Every Sunday, the new(ish) Osteria Lucio offers a pizza and cocktail special for €20 and we duly visited to check it out.

Some of you may be a little confused by the transition of the former Pizza e Porchetta into the new Osteria Lucio, In short, Chef Ross Lewis, from Chapter One, has partnered with Luciano Tona to take over the restaurant and gradually transform it with their own personal definition of Italian osteria cooking. 

Eating in a restaurant located underneath a DART bridge is an interesting experience, with the occasional overhead rumble. The low arching bridge adds a slight touch of cool claustrophobia which never quite departs during the meal. This feeling wasn't helped by the fact that the restaurant was largely empty, even at 1.30 on a Sunday lunchtime. The tempting €20 pizza and cocktail offer clearly needs a bit more broadcasting. 

Interior of Osteria Lucio

On the Sunday we visited, the special pizza featured fennel salami, ricotta, dill and fennel, all partnered with a Spicy Bloody Mary cocktail. We decided to have one special pizza, which we partnered with a salami, chili and honey pizza. Once prepped and placed in the oven, the pizzas were both ready in literally a few minutes, complete with thin crispy bases. After leaving the pies for a few minutes to cool and solidify somewhat, we tucked in our napkins and pulled the slices apart. 

Both pizzas were superb - the usually strong flavours of fennel were muted just enough on the special pizza, while the addition of honey to the salami and chili pizza added a little touch of difference. The only weak point was the Spicy Bloody Mary, which to be honest, wasn't very spicy.

Spicy Bloody Mary at Osteria Lucio

Fennel salami, ricotta, dill and fennel pizza

Osteria Lucio, Malting Tower, Clanwilliam Terrace, Grand Canal Quay, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 662 4198
URL:  osterialucio.com
Twitter: @luciodublin

[Competition] Win two tickets to Taste of Dublin with Wines from Rioja

There's nothing better than free stuff, and thanks to Wines from Rioja, Stitch & Bear have two pairs of tickets to Taste of Dublin to give away. I'll be giving away one pair here on the blog, while the second pair will be up for grabs on my shiny new Instagram page.

Wine from Rioja is bringing its "Summer of Tapas Fantasticas" to the Taste of Dublin Festival from the 11th to 14th June. Visitors will have a chance to taste some of Rioja's best wines, alongside traditional food from the famous London jamón bodega Bar Tozino. From Spain's gastronomic heartland, Rioja wines are amongst the world's most food-friendly, and with over 600 wineries in the Rioja region, there's bound to be a wine to suit everyone. Wine experts will be on hand to offer informal masterclasses to festival goers so that they can make the most of Rioja with their favourite foods. 

In order to be in with a chance of winning one pair of tickets for a Taste of Dublin session of your choosing, simply answer the question below by leaving a comment on this blog post, or by emailing stitchandbearblog@gmail.com. Please make sure to provide contact details, as I have to be able to reach you if you're lucky enough to win. The competition is now closed for entries.

Congrats to Daniela Simmons, who wins the pair of tickets from this blog post.

Question: What is the famous Spanish wine region that is bringing its wines to the Taste of Dublin?

Don't forget to like my new Instagram page, where I will be giving away another pair of tickets to one of my lucky followers. 

[Review] Amuse, Dawson Street, Dublin 2

 I've eaten at Amuse before for the evening tasting menu and was immensely impressed. Unfortunately, the matching tasting wines made an equal impression on me and my photos of that night grew progressively blurrier. But the French-Japanese cooking of chef Conor Dempsey lingered in my memory, calling for a return visit. Then a recent email arrived from Amuse announcing a three course set lunch menu for €35, which includes a glass of wine, a half bottle of water and tea or coffee. 

Located at the St Stephen's Green end of Dawson Street, Amuse is a small, but perfectly presented restaurant. The theme is perfectly executed French style cooking with a strong Asian influence. It's utterly unique by Dublin standards and is surely under scrutiny from the Michelin inspectors. (However, I am skeptical about Michelin in Ireland, given the other great restaurants who are yet to land a star).

To start, we were presented with an amuse of pureed aubergine, topped with black sesame and peanut, which concealed a small piece of anchovy sushi. My starter of goat's cheese curd was elegant simplicity with intense dashi infused grapes and quinoa crisps. Pork belly marinated in hoisin was served with apple, a sweet shrimp tartare and kombucha dressing. 

Amuse of aubergine, sesame, peanut and sushi

Goats cheese curd with dash infused grapes and quinoa crisps

Hoisin marinated pork belly with apple and shrimp tartare

Both main courses were exquisitely presented on pleasing, simple, white plates with a slightly raised rim. His main course of seared Atlantic cod was meaty and beautifully cooked. It was accompanied by sweet potato, mouth puckering intense baked lemon, a wonderful peanut satay and a shire miso dressing. My choice of guinea fowl absolutely blew me away, especially with the sweet and salty crusted neck (?) meat and wonderful dabs of coconut sauce.

Seared cod of fillet with sweet potato and satay 

Guinea fowl with green vegetables

The superb standard of cooking was maintained with the dessert courses. We shared two desserts, one of milk chocolate with blood orange sorbet and dried ginger and a second being a celebration of strawberries with white chocolate. I often find it hard for restaurants to maintain a consistent standard across savoury and sweet courses, but no such issues here. 

Milk chocolate with blood orange sorbet

Strawberry and white chocolate plate

In addition to great food, the wine service at Amuse is also to be commended. With the set course menu, you are limited to a single red or white, but I was impressed by the crisp Côtes de Gascogne Colombard. Later, when it came to desserts, sommelier Léna Duhamel presented us with two superb sweet wine options, one red and one white. I'm just kicking myself that I didn't take a picture of the labels.

The food at Amuse is complex and joyous. It's a complete world apart from the minimal ingredient approach we recently experienced at Relaæ in Copenhagen. On my first visit, I had been impressed. On this second visit, I was blown away by the increase in performance. The dishes feature flavours that are light and ethereal, but balanced against strong and vibrant notes. Presentation is meticulous with a mind-boggling level of detail concealed in the smears and dabs of every plate. 

For me, this is the best fine dining restaurant in Dublin right now. And a €35 lunch is a very affordable way to experience this superb venue. 

Amuse, 22 Dawson Street, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 639 4889
URL: www.amuse.ie
Twitter: @Amusedublin