Il Primo, Montague Street, Dublin 2

I have a slight addiction to Masterchef. I watch it in all its variants, although I must admit that I'm not that partial to Masterchef Australia. Perhaps it's a bit too relaxed for me, which is probably the reason I adore the more high octance Bristish Professional version. In order to cook for Michel Roux Jr, the contestants must first pass the gauntlet ferociously guarded by sous-chef Monica Galetti. The withering looks from this woman are a joy to behold as the contestants inevitably fail to live up to her high standards. The standard is high, very high.

Therefore, it was with interest I watched the Irish Masterchef series. Dylan McGrath (from Rustic Stone) shone as our home-grown culinary superstar chef, and eventually the lovely Mary Carney was crowned the first Irish Masterchef. Mary's cooking in the final was superb (and looks like it was partially inspired by her stint at the great Chapter One), but my lingering memory of the entire series was the line "A hake died for no reason today". This putdown on a contestant's cooking was was delivered by Anita Thoma, head chef at Il Primo.

Her appearance on television reminded me that I had been passing by Il Primo for many years. The hand-written menu on the front window had often caught my attention, along with some tempting lunch time prices, but for some inexplicable reason I had never visited. One quick Twitter lunchtime booking and everything was put right. On arrival, we were warmly greeted and given two small flutes of prosecco to relax with while we read the menu and daily specials.

Veal salad at Il Primo

Salad with warm grilled vegetables and goats' cheese

We both decided to go for salads for starters - veal salad for him while I had warm grilled vegetables with goat's cheese. In my case, asparagus, courgettes and sweet grilled peppers mixed wonderfully with the tangy goats' cheese and the emulsified balsamic dressing. His salad of cooked veal slices and richly coloured leaves was equally substantial and well-dressed.

Crab and leek lasagne

Papardelle with sausage

Crab & leek lasagne sounded so intriguing that I had to order it for my main course. It featured dense layers of homemade lasagne sheets, sweet chunky flakes of crab meat and gently cooked leeks. A creamy tomato sauce bought it all together beautifully. Our server told us that it was one of the few dishes to constantly remain on the menu during the 20 years that Il Primo has been open, and it's easy to see why.

For himeself, ribbons of pappardelle with sausage was a winter warmer dish. The smoky meaty rich tomato sauce had beautifully coated the pappardelle, and a quick scattering of freshly grated parmesan was all that was required. This really was rustic, hearty Italian cooking done simply and done well.

The lunch menu offers 1 course for €13, 2 courses for €16 or best of all, 3 courses for €19. We might have stopped after two courses, but the daily menu featured chocolate cake with vanilla cream. The cake turned out to be moist and rich with a fudgy centre, but still have a light texture. A food contradiction! Two delicious espressos went fantastically well with the cake.

Chocolate cake with vanilla cream

My one regret about our lunchtime visit to Il Primo was that we hadn't visited earlier. The very generous portions meant that I spend the rest of the afternoon struggling not to fall asleep while a total of €38 represented great value for a lunch of this quality. Service was perfect throughout the meal, and the cosy nature of the interior means that it would also be perfect for a romantic and sophisticated evening meal.

Il Primo, 16 Montague Street, Dublin 2
Tel: +353 (0)1 293 3804
URL: http://www.ilprimo.ie
Twitter: @IlPrimo1

Indie Spice, Sandymount, Dublin 4

With four locations in Ireland, Indie Spice is a well-established group of restaurants. The first was founded in Belfast over 20 years ago and expanded with newer venues in Swords and Naas. The latest addition to the chain is to be found in the genteel and sophisticated neighbourhood of Sandymount. 

Located upstairs, the interior is modern and extremely stylish. It's so nice to sit in a restaurant with vibrant colours and design. Red lattice lampshades and jewel tones are balanced nicely by dark furniture, while an open kitchen pass allows diners to view the chefs at work in the kitchen. Personally, I like this kind of decor as I find it a refreshing change from the curry-house interior that persists in many, older restaurants.

The modern interior at Indie Spice

The menu comes as a fancy, printed brochure, while paper place mats feature recipes to try at home. Traditional, well-known dishes mingle alongside some lesser known dishes, including one of my favourites, the achari pickle curry. For starters, himself chose the fearsome sounding Piri Piri Prawns (€10.95) while I went for a favourite with the vegetarian Achari Paneer (€7.95). 

The prawns came with scallops and pretty dots of different coloured sauces, providing a very meaty starter but the promised 2 chili rating didn't really materialise. This was probably due to the fact that despite being large and plump, the seafood was rather bland and watery. My paneer starter featured the same set of polka dot sauces, but needed lemon juice (stolen from his starter) to really zing.

Piri Piri Prawns & Scallops

Achari Paneer

I was feeling in the mood for something mild, so I had chosen Malai Chingri (€21.95), which promised jumbo prawns cooked in coconut milk and sweet spices. It turned out to be deliciously sweet and creamy with plenty of chewy coconut flakes.  Himself has a big love of seafood curries so he opted for Malabar monkfish curry (€23.95), which featured dense monkfish chunks in a rich sauce fragrant with fresh curry leaves. However, both dishes were let down by the quality of the seafood itself, which, like the earlier starter, was bland and watery.

Malabar Monkfish curry & Malai Chingri

Like a lot of Indian restaurants, rice and sundries are extra, which is a bit much considering the price of the main courses. When a restaurant charges €20+ for a main, I don't think it's unreasonable to expect rice to be included. We added a light, fluffy garlic naan to our meal for €2.95.  Our meal  was settled with a Living Social voucher (2 starters, 2 mains and 2 glasses of wine for €39), which saved us over €35, based on printed menu prices.

To be honest, I'd really have my doubts about paying full a la carte prices. Although I did enjoy my meal, it wasn't a stand out Indian experience in the way that you can justifiably expect in venues such as Jaipur or Ananda. It's good, decent Indian food that shouldn't carry a big price tag. Thankfully, Indie Spice offer some great value set menus for lunch and dinner (which can be found on their website here) including a 2 course lunch for €8.95 and a 3 course Sunday lunch for €16.95.

Indie Spice, 23-24  Sandymount Green, Dublin 4

Tel: +353 (0)1 232 0220

URL: http://www.indiespice.com/sandymount

Twitter: @indie_spice

Beer & Food Tasting from Heineken

I recently received a PR invite to attend a beer and food tasting event, organised by Heineken Ireland. As a large corporation, Heineken own many international beer brands (think Birra Moretti, Paulaner and Tiger). The growing interest in craft beers as well as food & beer pairings has not escaped their attention, and now they are offering diners the chance to attend some dining events in Dublin and Cork.

The venues have been well chosen with Ely Bar and Brasserie, Siam Thai and Roly’s Bistro in Dublin and The Cornstore in Cork all taking part. At each event a beer and food expert will be present to guide the diners through the tasting of beers from around the world and how they match with the food on a specially designed menu.

Many of us put thought into the wines we enjoy with our food, so why not apply the same logic to beers? Hopefully these events will offer some ideas to people unfamiliar with the pairing of food and beer, or else inspire new thoughts in beer lovers. Simply call the numbers listed below to book a place.

Roly’s Bistro, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
Dublin Tapas style menu with beer tasting for €29.95
Monday 7th November at 7.30pm – 01 6682611

Siam Thai, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin
Two course set menu for €27.50
Tuesday 8th November at 7.30pm – 01 2964500

The Cornstore, Cornmarket Street, Cork
Three course set menu with beer tasting for €24.95
Tuesday 8th November at 7.30pm – 021 4274777

Ely Bar & Brasserie, IFSC, Dublin
Two course set menu with beer tasting for €24.95
Wednesday 9th November at 6.00pm – 01 6720010

161 Cafe & Bistro, Rathmines, Dublin 6

I live in a beautiful area of Dublin. It's that bizarre part of Dublin where Rathmines begins to disappear but you haven't quite made it to Ranelagh, Rathgar or Milltown. Us residents, as well a significant amount of Trinity students, call it Dartry... 

We are lucky to have a small stretch on the Upper Rathmines Road which is home to some fine food shops. Field & Vine is a superb little grocer, selling a great range of organic products as well as fresh fruit and vegetables. Lawlor's butcher provides high quality fresh meat and fish, as does Connolly's seafood, while Fothergills is a fine deli. Bizarrely, this little shopping enclave has been without a cafe or restaurant since the closure of Wild  Lily's Cafe some years ago.

The arrival of the very stylish 161 Cafe & Bistro has thankfully rectified this gap. A simple facade in gray and blue hints at the sleek interior, which is decorated in light blue, with whitewashed floors, white bench seating and plenty of scattered cushions. Since it opened earlier in the year, it has established itself as a popular family-friendly spot with the locals, who pack it out for brunch on weekend mornings.

The charming interior at 161 Cafe & Bistro

We visited recently for a fortifying Saturday brunch before heading to the Honest2Goodness market in Glasnevin. Just about all the tables were occupied, with families featuring strongly, but we were able to snag a small two person table. The Brunch menu lists all the usual dishes, but I was intrigued by the description of the 161 Vegetarian Brunch which contains corn fritter stacks with avocado & portobello mushroom, grilled tomato and baked beans (€9.50). I received a carefully constructed tower , while homemade baked beans came in a little rammekin dish with freshly toasted sourdough bread on the side. I found the beans to be sharp and even uncooked in places, but the corn fritters were excellent, and a great alternative to the traditional meaty breakfast.

Vegetarian brunch at 161 Cafe & Bistro

Himself went for Steak and Eggs, which features a 6oz sirloin steak with fried egg and sauteed potatoes (€10.00). Simple and straightforward, this dish delivered the required morning after sustenance with the sauteed potatoes being exceptionally tasty.

Steak and egg at 161 Cafe & Bistro

We did experience a mix-up with our coffee order, but a smile and apology from the front of house helped make everything right. Regular americanos cost €2.20, rising to €2.50 for a large coffee. Fresh-squeezed orange juice, just baked pastries and scones and simple tasty lunch keeps the crowds coming during the day, while dinner is served until 10pm Thurs-Sat.

161 Cafe & Bistro is the kind of venue that every suburb or shopping area needs. Nothing overly fancy, but everything here is prepared to a high standard. Judging by the crowds I see in the window every weekend, lots of other people are enjoying it also.

161 Cafe & Bistro, Upper Rathmines Road, Dublin 6
Tel: +353 (0)1 497 8049
URL:http://161cafebistro.com/

[Review] Bibi's Cafe, Emorville Avenue, Dublin 8

Sometimes you come across a restaurant or cafe that is so charming and lovely that you literally don't want to tell anyone else. News of its existence circulates via word of mouth (and through clenched teeth) as no one really wants it to get too popular. If you tell someone, it means that your chances of securing a seat have declined, so it's really in your own best interests to stay quiet.

Shhssshhh then, don't repeat what I'm about to tell to you to anyone else. It's just between you and me, right?

Bibi's Cafe on Emorville Avenue is a teeny-tiny cafe attached to sister enterprise, the Doll's Boutique. (Perfect for those folk who would like to combine some cool clothes shopping with coffee and tasty cake). Doll's is run by Petria Lenihan, while sister Maisha Lenihan looks after the culinary action in Bibi's (which is named after their grandmother, Bibi).

Sitting at the outdoor tables in the sunshine on a street of residential redbrick houses is hard to beat, but you can head indoors in inclement weather. Inside, there are a few small tables along a banquet seat with additional stools providing seating at a tall counter (but in order to  sit there, you'd have to elbow aside all the fabulous looking cakes). A proper multi-ring gas cooker lurks behind the counter, providing the beating heart of Bibi's.

The cosy interior of Bibi's Cafe

We visited recently for Saturday brunch and were given a hand-written photocopied menu. It's not too often you read a menu where you could happily choose any dish, but this was one such case. We dithered between delicious sounding dishes such as Eggs Florentine, brioche French toast, spciy beans on toast with chorizo before making our choices.

We both initially had our eyes on Bibi's version of a toastie - a pan toasted sandwich with ham, Gubbeen cheese and homemade chutney (€7.50). Made from thick toasted slice of bread, golden brown on the outside and with cheese oozing down the sides, it was simply the best toastie ever! (Disclaimer - may contain slight exaggeration). Granted, the homemade chutney could have been spread a little more evenly, but the generous melted cheese content won my heart.

Pan toasted ham and Gubeen cheese sandwich

The inclusion of roasted butternut squash in a breakfast dish intrigued me. It came served in hearty chunks with two poached eggs, garlic yogurt and a coriander & chili butter (€9.50). The squash was cooked beautifully and worked really well when dunked in the punchy garlic yogurt and punctured egg yolk. The only slightly disappointing aspect was the chili & coriander butter which could have been stronger - after all, the butternut squash can take heat really well. The dish was served with 2 toasted slices of the same crunchy bread as used in the toastie.

Roasted butternut squash with poached eggs & garlic yogurt

We were enjoying brunch as Bibi's so much that we lingered for a second cup of good coffee, which comes with mini portions of their tasty cakes nestled in the curves of the spoons. On the day we visited, it was a scrummy tangy lemon cake. Americano coffees were €2.50 while lattes were €3.00, and takeaway coffee is available if you're in the neighbourhood.

So there you have it. Grudgingly, I've shared the word on Bibi's. I really shouldn't have though, as I want to keep it all for myself. So don't go there, alright? And let me remind you one more time - don't tell anyone else.

Doll's Boutique & Bibi's Cafe, 14b Emorville Avenue, Dublin 8
Tel: +353 (0)1 454 7421
URL: bibis.ie
Twitter: @bibiscafe

Bon Appetit, Malahide, Co Dublin

Have you ever wanted the chance to critique a Michelin-starred chef and actually have him listen to you? Over the course of two weeks in October, Bon Appetit offered diners the chance to enjoy 6 courses for just €40. In return for this exceptional value, chef Oliver Dunne and his team sought feedback from the diners which they could use to refine and improve their new winter menu. Bon Appetit has a strong reputation, so this open invitation to would-be critics was hardly going to cause any consternation in the kitchen, but it was still a brave move on their part. You could also argue that the request for feedback represents how sophisticated Irish diners have become.

Well, I think all my readers know that I like a bargain, just as much as I like to eat good food, so I duely put my money where my mouth is. An early arrival into Malahide meant that we could spend a few relaxing moments looking at the boats in the marina. Wistful dreaming complete, we headed up the steps into Bon Appetit for an aperitif at their very fabulous and well-priced tapas & wine bar, Le Bon Vin. As I was driving, I decided to order a Kir Royale, which would be my sole alcholic treat for the evening. Dining at a Michelin restaurant is always a special occasion, hence the glass of bubbles.

We were escorted upstairs to the dining room which is a very calming and elegant space with the tables set well apart. The ever watchful staff even provided a little footstool on which to rest my handbag. (Heaven forbid that it would have to rough it on the floor.) The beauty of a tasting menu is that you don't have to choose your courses, which means that you can sit right back, relax and wait for the chef to perform his magic.

As a little appetiser, we received two warm simple choux puffs fragrant with Gruyère. We were also offered a selction of fantastically light and crusty homemade breads, which were easily the best that I've enjoyed in any restaurant. Our 6 course tasting menu consisted of the following dishes (no photos are available due to the low light levels).

• Amuse Bouche of white onion & thyme veloute - beautifully smooth with a lovely sweetness coming from the onion.
• Pan-fried foie gras, confit rhubarb, hazelnut snow, wild rice crispies, rhubarb puree and parsnip custard - The rhubarb confit caught the eye due to its vivid pink colour, but I found the foie gras to be a little underseasoned. The little drifts and clumps of hazelnut snow had a beautiful nutty flavour which complemented the butteriness of the liver.
• Pan-roasted brill, cauliflower 3 ways (roasted, pickled & puree), couscous & cheese macaroni - A perfectly cooked piece of firm fish, served on plump, juicy couscous. The accompanying mac'n'cheese had been made with goat's cheese whose tanginess overpowered the delicate fish.
• Rump of lamb, sweetbread with herb praline, Madeira reduction, creamed leeks and glazed baby carrot - I simply loved the sweetbread served alongside the lamb. It reminded me of the foie gras served earlier, but it was the glazed carrot that I will remember the most. I never thought a carrot could taste that good.
• Fig & Hibiscus purée, star anise foam with carmelised nuts - Served in a pretty little shot glass, this fruity liquid tasted of Christmas and spicy winter warmth.
• Peanut parfait, chocolate & chocolate tuille, pear sorbet & poached pear- This came to the table looking like a fabulous Philip Tracey creation. A large circle of tuille was perched atop a little square of parfait, with a quenelle of sorbet sitting in the loop. I simply loved the combination of peanuts and chocolate and the pear sorbet added a cool refreshment. However, when I tried to cut the poached pear with my spoon, it damn near rocketed off the plate and across the table.

We finished off our meal with coffee and homemade choclates. I loved the colourful elegant Wedgewood coffee cups, and while the chocolates were delicious, I would have liked something a little lighter (perhaps a macaron?) to finish the meal.

The only serious critique of our meal would be in relation to time it took to serve our food. Other couples who came in later in the evening caught up with us over the course of dinner. A well-paced service is to be expected when indulging in some fine dining, but this was a bit too lengthy. However, we occupied ourselves in the intervals between courses by imaging what the other diners were doing. Older men and younger women are always good for speculation.

Our total bill for the evening came to over €150. Food totalled €80, drinks and sparkling water , coffee and petit fours were €5.95 per head, while the remainder was due to a 12.5% service charge. Sometimes I forget how much drinks and extras can add to a bill. However, in return for that hard-earned money, we received excellent food, smooth (albeit a little slow) service and a very relaxed evening. On our drive home, we debated the relative merits of Bon Appetit and Chapter One, which was our favourite restaurant to date. The jury is still out on that decision, but one thing is clear. You won't go wrong at Bon Appetit.

Bon Appetit, James's Terrace, Malahide, Co. Dublin
Tel: +353 (0)1 845 01314
URL: http://bonappetit.ie
Twitter: @bonappmalahide\

Melting Moments Biscuits

Everyone needs a party piece when it comes to baking. It should be something that you can make quickly with a minimum of fuss and ingredients, but delivers maximum impact. When I saw Mary-Anne Boermans bake some tiny, dainty biscuits on BBC's The Great British Bake Off, I was intrigued. She used a minimum of ingredients, 5 to be exact, but the judges oohed and aahed over the results.

I found Mary-Anne's recipe on her blog, Time to Cook - Online, and the more I read, the more I liked. The biscuits are super adaptable, delicious served plain, but also capable of being dolled up with buttercream or filling of your choice. They go especially well with coffee.

My version of Mary-Anne's Melting Moments

Ingredients
250g unsalted butter, room temperature
58g icing sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
250g plain flour
58g cornflour

Preheat your oven to 180 Celsius for fan-assisted ovens, or 200 Celsius for conventional ovens. Line two baking sheets with greaseproof paper.

In a bowl, beat the butter for several minutes until pale and creamy. Sift the icing sugar into the bowl and continue to beat for another minute or two until well incorporated. It is worth having the butter as soft as possible before starting as this is the main source of liquid in the recipe. The softer the butter is, the easier it will be to pipe the biscuits.

Add the vanilla essence and quickly beat in. 

Sift the flour and cornflour into the bowl and beat well until mixed in. Use a spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl to ensure that all dry ingredients are incorporated into the mixture. 

Once ready, fit a wide star nozzle to a strong piping bag (preferably canvas) and fill with the mixture. Pipe evenly onto the baking sheets. Placing a template guide under the greaseproof paper will help you produce even results. Depending on your piping skill level, you can pipe swirls or simple stars, as in my photo above. 

Mary-Anne recommends placing the baking sheets in the freezer for 15 minutes to firm the mixture before baking, but I don't have the freezer space to do this, and my biscuits have turned out pretty good without. Place into the oven and bake for approx 12 minutes, or until lightly golden. 

Remove from the oven and leave on the tray for a few minutes to harden. They are too delicate to move while still hot from the oven. Once cool, transfer gently with a palette knife to a wire rack to cool completely.

Enjoy on their own, or sandwich together with fillings such as jam, buttercream, chocolate or caramel. Only your imagination will limit you.

Melting Moments sandwiched with chocolate buttercream