O'Brien Chop House, Lismore, Co Waterford

Back in early December 2011, we found ourselves driving between Cork and Waterford. As we passed by Youghal, I saw roadsigns for Lismore, reminding me that I was yet to visit O'Brien Chop House (which has been open since 2009). Being a creature who demands immediate satisfaction in matters of food, we quickly decided that lunch in Lismore would be a very fine idea indeed.

Lismore is a beautiful town, sitting on the Blackwater river at the foot of the Knockmealdown mountains. Old shopfronts have been preserved and the entire town just breathes history and tradition. O'Brien Chop House is itself located on the premises of an old Victorian pub. As you push open the narrow wooden door, and walk across the tiled entrance, you will find yourself in a piece of old traditional Ireland. The original bar, shelving and snug have all been maintained, while the dining room extends out to the rear.

After ordering, we received selection of freshly baked breads served with a pat of Glenilen Farm butter. The breads were excellent, and it's really nice to see farmhouse butter starting to appear in different restaurants. The menu at O'Brien's regularly features a fizz and on our visit, spiced apple fizz was a nod to the season (€3.50). Elderflower fizz also features frequently, thanks to abundant crops which need to be used and frozen.

Selection of fresh breads & butter

Pork crackling popcorn

We ordered a portion of pork crackling popcorn as a snack while waiting for our mains. Little puffs of crackling came served in an old, battered pewter cup lightly dusted with paprika and sea salt (€2.50). To be honest, we found them somewhat compulsive eating.

We shared one of the daily special starters - Dry aged McGrath's beef steak tartare (€12.50). This was served with a stunning yellow duck egg yolk sitting on top. Once the yolk was broken and mixed through the meat, we was found the tartare to be wonderfully flavoursome with a smooth, dense texture. Delicious stuff.

Steak tartare with duck egg yolk

My main course was Ballyvolane House Saddleback pork chops, apple and onion jam with pan juices (€21.50), while he chose another special, pan-fried ray wing with lemon and caper butter (€19.90). Wonderful roast winter root vegetables and a portion of fries accompanied our mains. The ray wing was a simple piece of cooking with plenty of firm, meaty flesh and it caused us both to wonder why ray wing isn't featured more frequently on restaurant menus. The pork chops were substantial, with the pink hue that comes with really good pork. Despite all this, the roast root vegetables were the stars of the show. Piled high in a blue & white china bowl, they were warming and hearty with all the goodness of the roasting pan.

Ballyvolane House saddleback pork chop

Pan-fried ray wing

O'Brien Chop House sources local, seasonal produce, with an in-house garden kitchen. On the day we visited, the menu featured a special of whole, roast mallard, and I gained much amusement watching a fellow diner wield a knife to the whole duck. Although the duck may have lost the battle to the gamekeeper, it was definitely managing to defeat my neighbour. As we left through the old bar, I imagined myself back again, only this time in the evening, and with a local beer in hand. O'Brien Chop House draws you back, it's that kind of place.

O'Brien Chop House, Lismore, Co Waterford
Tel: +353 (0)58 53 810
URL: www.obrienchophouse.ie
Twitter: @obrienchophouse

Bar Lunch at the Cliff House Hotel

I reckon that I've driven over 1,300 km in the last 2.5 weeks. Although I live in Dublin, my newest client is based in Cork, and I've also been trekking between Cork and Waterford for family Christmas obligations. In the two and a half years I've owned my beloved car, I've nearly doubled the mileage on it and I've only slept in my own bed 2 nights out of the last 20. 

The funny thing is that I kind of like being out on the road. I love driving, and although I dislike being away from home, I also do some of my best work when I'm cooped up in hotel rooms, removed from the distractions of home. Still though, it's no substitute for your own bed and sofa.

Thanks to all this drving between Cork and Waterford, I've finally been able to visit two establishments that have long been on my wish list. Several weeks ago we enjoyed a pre-Christmas lunch in O'Brien's Chophouse in lovely Lismore, followed recently by lunch in the Bar at the Cliff House Hotel perched high on the cliffs over Ardmore Bay.

Although we arrived a little late in the afternoon, the Cliff House bar was doing a brisk trade with late-lunchers and cliff-walkers seeking some warmth after the icy winds. We got lucky and secured a table along the windows with a stunning view out over the sea. We initially put our eyes on the smoked haddock salad and crab claws as the front runners, but unfortunately they were not available, due to "supply chain issues". However, I consoled myself with an excellent Tinpot Hut Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (€9 per glass).

McGrath's Spiced Beef

We shared a starter of McGrath's spiced beef with hazelnuts, parsley "pesto", cheddar and rocket (€9.50). It came carpaccio style with a tender pink centre and generous drizzles of pesto. I loved this twist on a Cork classic, and it tasted even better on a slice of the fresh brown bread.

Helvick cod fillet

Slowly roasted pork belly

Initially himself had chosen a seafood and barley risotto, but clearly Sod's Law was ruling that day as the waitress returned from the kitchen to tell us that it was no longer available, so instead he chose the fillet of Helvick cod (€23.50). A substantial piece of dense meaty cod came served with a spinach crust, topped with toasted flaked almonds and a creamy white wine sauce. Slowly roasted belly pork came with butter fried onions and a rich gravy (€23.50) and we shared some lovely baby potatoes gratin and roasted root vegetables. 

Coffee with a tasty treat

We finished with two very good coffees which came with a little plate of tasty mini-cakes studded with fresh sharp raspberries. The coffeees were listed on our bill at €4.50 each, but I was later informed by Adriaan Bartels (General Manager at the Cliff House Hotel, and all round good guy) that we should have been offered a pot of coffee for two, which comes with a lower price tag.

I literally had to drag myself out of the chair in order to leave. A feeling of wellbeing and relaxation had crept through me as we watched the rain sweep across the bay followed by a shimmering rainbow. After all the Christmas rush and mayhem, this had been the short tonic I required.

The Cliff House Hotel, Middle Road, Ardmore, Co Waterford
Tel: +353 (0)24 87 800
URL: www.thecliffhousehotel.com
Twitter: @cliffhousehotel

Show some manners!

The run up to the Christmas season is obviously a busy time for restaurants, generating much needed revenue (with over 20% of the annual restaurant income being generated in in 3 weeks). Office and work parties mean that large tables are reserved well in advance allowing the restaurant managers to plan, purchase stock and organise work rosters.

Over the past year on Twitter, I've noticed the occasional tweet from assorted restauranteurs about confirmed bookings who fail to show. These no-shows caused annoyance as it means that managers have turned away other bookings as well as the loss of income.

As Christmas came closer, the frequency of these "no-show" tweets gradually started to increase, turning from a trickle into a flood. Restaurants who hadn't previously commented started to share their experiences. Here's a selection of tweets from the run up to Christmas.

@OliverDunne 
4 confirmed tables no show so far, somethings will NEVER change. 

@AlexisDublin 
We lost 40 people between Fri and Sun through no shows..needs to be highlighted.

@OliverDunne  
Last night 12 people didn't turn up @bonappmalahide but thankfully we had a few walk ins so it was a good night :-) #noshows

@FennsQuay

on Friday we turned away a few & 8 no showed sun & 2 tables of 6 no show I know of another rest on sat night 3 groups no show

@ElectricCork

 a nearby restaurant where a full house would be 70 covers, 1 nite last wk had 30 no shows & late cancellations

@OliverDunne  
Since 5pm today 42% of my bookings @bonappmalahide tonight have cancelled or not turned up and the nights not over yet!

This problem isn't limited just to Irish restaurants as I've also noticed similar complaints emerging from English tweeters. Understandably, restaurants are annoyed at these no-shows and late cancellations and the Restaurants Association of Ireland started a press campaign to highlight this issue. Many venues are considering implementing a deposit scheme at the time of booking, which will be refunded against the cost of the meal.

The message is simple - if you can't make your reservation, please get in touch with the venue to cancel, preferably giving as much notice as possible. It's just manners after all.

Heineken launches thisisbeer.ie

I've written recently about Heineken's efforts to promote the pairing of food and beer. As part of this initiative, I was invited to a session in the Siam Thai Dundrum, where we learned a huge amount about beer from a master beer sommelier, as well as seeing how beer works with different foods.

Heinken Ireland continue to promote the matching of food and beer and have recently launched a new webiste thisisbeer.ie. Described as a "beer hub built to celebrate the natural goodness of beer", the website is intended to act as a venue where experienced and novice beer drinkers can discuss and learn about beer.The website will provide details on the different Heineken brands, as well as providing recipes to showcase how beer can pair with food.

Sometimes, it's easy to forget that beer is a wholly natural product, made from just four ingredients: water, barley, hops and yeast. As a natural product, beer is a perfect accompaniment to food and with a wide array of brands on offer from Heineken Ireland (including Tiger, Zwyiec and Paulaner), there surely is a beer out there for everybody.

For more information on beer and food matching, visit www.thisisbeer.ie

Quick & Easy - Puff Pastry Pizzas

Everyone needs a surefire recipe for the Christmas season. It has to be easy, quick but still produce a result that is delicious and suitable for this period of indulgence. So here's my suggestion of puff pastry pizzas. The beauty of these pizzas, or tarts, is the ease and speed with which they can be made. But once that buttery, flaky pastry comes out of the oven, there is a feeling of luxury and specialness. Perfect for Christmas.

I think ready made puff pastry has to be one of life's greatest inventions. Making puff pastry from scratch is no mean feat (usually reserved for Masterchef competitors), so why bother at home when you can purchase it chilled and ready to go? The commonly available option is Jus-Rol frozen pastry, but I've never fully liked it. However, I recently tried Tesco's Finest chilled puff pastry and really liked the results. It also has a shelf life of several weeks, which means that you can keep it in stock for ad-hoc cooking.

First of all, you'll need a tomato sauce for the base. I love my own recipe for pizza sauce but you can use whatever you have to hand. Preheat the oven to 180C,  get the chilled puff pastry, cut into four equal pieces and place onto some baking sheets. 

Chorizo, feta & carmelised red onion

Place some tomato sauce onto the middle of each sheet and spread out, making sure to leave bare strips on the sides. Doing this means that pastry will puff up at the edges, providing a lovely flaky crust to your pizza. Top the tomato sauce with some shredded or grated mozzarella. Finally, add your toppings. Recent favourite combinations of mine have included parma ham and fresh shredded basil as well feta cheese, chorizo and carmelised red onion with a light dusting of chili flakes.

Parma ham, mozzarella & basil

Place the pizzas in the oven for about 15 minutes, or until the edges are puffed up and golden. Once out of the oven, leave the pizzas to sit for a few minutes to give the cheese time to set a little before eating. To add some extra flavour and aroma, scatter some fresh basil on the parma & basil pizza.

Cut the pizzas into smaller portions and serve. Just make sure to catch all the delicious buttery flakes!

Dressler, Brooklyn, New York

I spent two whirlwind days in New York in November. I was scheduled to travel to North Carolina for work purposes, and we decided to wedge in two vacation days and make a pitstop in the city that never sleeps. I only got the green light for the business trip one week beforehand, so all our personal arrangements were made in a flurried hurry.

As a result of all this rush, we didn't work out an eating plan in advance. But we did promise ourselves that we would try to hit one really good restaurant, ideally for that New York institution, brunch. For a change of scenery we stayed in Brooklyn, as opposed to Manhattan. This turned out to be a real brainwave and we got to see some new and upcoming areas in Brooklyn.

Dressler is a Michelin-starred restaurant on Broadway (not THAT Broadway, but the Broadway in Brooklyn). It's very handsome inside, with old tiled floors, iron chandeliers and backlit metal grilles. The dominant colours are dark red and black with soft lighting. It all adds up to a feeling of aged sophistication.

Fig, blue cheese & prosciutto salad

Smoked trout & apple salad

The brunch menu is a nice mix of light fare, egg-based dishes and more substantial sandwiches and burgers. The menu is rounded off with oysters and a nice selection of brunch cocktails to help on those hairy mornings. We both started off with salads, a fig, prosciutto and blue cheese salad ($12.00) for me, while he enjoyed a smoked trout and apple salad ($12.00). Both dishes were light with a good balance of flavours from the different combinations.

Pork BLT

Turkey club sandwich

For main courses, he chose a turkey club sandwich ($15.00) while I chose a pork BLT ($16.00), both of which came served with fries. A little bowl of pickles completed the plates. As it was Sunday, and I was on holidays, I also chose a La Batida cocktail ($12.00) to enjoy with my brunch. I ordered the cocktail just a little before midday, which meant that I had to wait for the clock to tick over before the barman could make and serve it to me. La Batida is a Brazilian coconut-based cocktail which features fruit mixed with cachaça. It was creamy and gently sweet, with the bite of alcohol. Very tasty indeed.

Our meal was Sunday brunch food at its best, satisyfing and tasty. Dressler really seems to exemplify modern American cooking. The relaxing and unique dining room is just lovely, and service, as you'd expect, was attentive. Two good americanos meant that our total bill came to approximately $90. By any standards, that's a lot of money for brunch, but Dressler was worth the trip.

Dressler, 149 Broadway, Brooklyn, NYC
Tel:+1 718 384 6343
URL: www.dresslernyc.com
Twitter: @DresslerBrookly

A Beer & Food Tasting with Heineken

A few weeks ago, I received an invitation to attend a beer and food matching evening, courtesy of Heineken. Several different sessions were taking place in Cork and Dublin and I put my name down for the dinner at Siam Thai in Dundrum Town Centre. 

I was curious to see what Heineken would offer at this event, and how they could make their big name brands stand out. It's possible to argue that they are Goliath, striding into the growing Irish craft beer movement, potentially at the expense of the smaller breweries. However, I have to say that I enjoyed the event immensely and found it very educational. The knowledgeable Fiona Smith from the F&B Partnership was our tutor for the evening, and she gradually took us through the different ways of experiencing and tasting beer.

A special menu had been selected for us at the Siam Thai. We were to have a mixed starter plate with each starter being paired to a particular beer. This would be followed by our choice of main course, again with a suggested beer pairing. All tables were set with a selection of large wine glasses, which were used for tasting the various beers.

Starters

• Chicken and pineapple skewers with Paulaner
• Salmon cakes with Zywiec
• Laab gai salad with Tiger

Main Courses

• Sweet and sour chicken with Zywiec
• Lamb with Thai herbs with Paulaner
• Panang pork curry with Moretti
• Massaman chicken curry with Sol
• Red curry prawn noodles with Heineken

Fiona kicked off by informing us that beer had the same basic properties as wine, particularly when it came to pairing with food. In fact, beer actually has a broader spectrum of flavours than wine and comes in different colours including dark, amber and white (naturally cloudy or unfiltered beers). 

The quick guide to tasting beer..

• When pouring beer, the glass and bottle should never come in contact
• Take short sniffs of the beer to get the aromas
• Stir the beer with a spoon to build up a head, which you then taste to get an indication of the hop level. Hops attach to the CO2 contained in beer, so the head on a beer will contain lots of hop flavour
• Taste the beer in slurps (yes slurps!). This will get lots of air into the beer, giving you a chance to taste the flavours

We moved onto our first beer, Paulaner, which was paired with chicken & pineapple skewers. We poured the beer into the wine glasses, swirled and sniffed as instructed, revealing tropical fruit smells. Paulaner is a Hefe-Weissbier from Bavaria, but I really pleasantly surprised to find lots of banana flavour in the beer, something I'd never noticed before.

Zywiec beer and a tasting notes booklet

Next up was the Polish beer Zywiec (pronounced zee-vee-ek), a darker beer made from barley. As a result this had a darker, maltier aroma and flavour. In fact, I thought of Maltesers when I sniffed it. It has more hops than the Paulaner as well as hints of lemon, which meant that it paired very nicely with the salmon fishcakes

The last of our starters, spicy Laab gai salad, was paired with the Malaysian Tiger beer, which has been brewed since 1932. Author Anthony Burgess even named a novel "Time for a Tiger" after the famous advertising slogan "It's time for a Tiger". This was hoppier than the previous beers, but it's light and fresh flavours meant that it balanced the spicy chicken salad quite well.

Suggestions had been given for our main course pairings, but I declined the suggestion for my main course choice of lamb with Thai herbs, and instead chose another bottle of Zywiec. This beer had been my clear favourite of the 3 tasted so far and I wanted to enjoy it some more. Himself chose Moretti to accompany his red curry prawn noodles. As we were eating and slurping beer, Fiona was doing some rounds of the tables, answering any additional questions that we may have.

The big lesson of the night was to serve beer in glasses that are wide enough to give you a chance to really smell the beer. I had been surprised to see big red wine glasses on the table, but they were the perfect vessels for the beers. Some of my previous thoughts about beers were overturned on the evening. Prior to this event, I would never have ordered a Paulaner of Zywiec, but this tasting event really opened my eyes (and nose) to their fruity aromas and flavours.

A big thank you to Fiona and the crew from Heineken and Thinkhouse for organising this great event. For  more information on the Heineken family of beers, events, and suggested food pairings, visit www.thisisbeer.ie.