[Review] L'Atitude 51, Union Quay, Cork

Once upon a time, Cork had two great music venues. Sir Henry's was a nightclub which catered to both the Indie and Electronic crowds with regular club nights. It is more than legend to a whole generation of Cork people. Thousands of people "claim" to have attended the famous 1991 gig where new band Nirvana played support to Sonic Youth. I became familiar with Sir Henry's as a UCC fresher in 1996. This love affair lasted all the way through my undergrad and postgrad careers until Celtic Tiger Ireland intruded and it was knocked down to be replaced by a car park. 

The other renowned Cork spot was the famous Lobby Bar, where many great musicians played to small, packed crowds. My favourite memory of the Lobby is a Beth Orton concert on a beautifully warm, sunny summer evening, with the audience squeezed as tight as sardines in the upstairs room. Alas, the Lobby closed in 2005 and subsequently housed a series of restaurants. But things picked up significantly in December 2011 when L'Atitude 51 opened.

Owners Beverly Matthews and Emmanuelle Legrande (both holders of WSET diplomas) have done something special with this venerable location. The interior has been painted in muted colours, the bar sells Irish craft beers and ciders, and I'm reliably informed that they sell some incredible sausage rolls for breakfast. Open from 10am to late 7 days a week, they offer a selection of French-inspired daily specials alongside a regular menu. 

The upstairs interior at L'Atitude 51

The food and wine menus at L'Atitude 51

I've visited several times since L'Atitdude 51 opened, with the most memorable occasion being the Little Beauty wine tasting. This is part of a regular series of Meet the Winemaker events hosted by L'Atitude 51 in conjunction with a selection of Irish wine importers and distributors. I've also called in several times while working in Cork for a glass of good wine, or one of their tasty but simple French dishes. 

We visited on a recent Saturday night to find all seats taken downstairs. Seats were still available upstairs, through a stairwell still papered with gig posters from the Lobby era. The lighting is just enough on the bright side of dim to be comfortable with little tea lights flickering on the tables. We quickly looked at the specials chalked on the board, before settling on two platters of mixed cheese and meats (€12.50 each) supplemented by an order of aranicini (€7.50). 

We settled in with two glasses of 2009 Secateurs Chenin Blanc (€6 per 150ml glass). I like the way that the wine menu is laid out, with categories such as "Fruit Driven" or "Fruity with Attitude" in the red half, balanced by "Herbaceous" and "The Aromatics" in the whites. It definitely gives you an idea of what you might like to experiment with. I also love the glassware used in L'Atitude 51 - there's a real love of wine here.

Our two boards featured large chunks of room-temperature cheese and sliced meats. If I have a favourite food, it would be cheese, and I was in cheese heaven with the wide selection. All nationalities were represented with generous chunks provided. A lot of restaurants could learn from L'Atitude 51 about temperature and portion size.

Meat and cheese board No 1

Meat and cheese board No 2

Due to the delay in giving our arancini order, they were late in arriving, coming just as we were scraping the last of the cheese rinds. We had ordered a mixed plate with both ham and spinach varieties. Arancini are Sicilian rice balls, made with mozzarella and other ingredients which are then deep fried until crispy golden. As you can imagine, the end result is a gooey, melted dumpling with a lovely crispy exterior. By this stage, we had finished the Chenin Blanc, so we ordered a 250ml pichet of 2010 Domaine de la Renne Sauvignon Blanc (€9), which offered better value than 2 individual glasses. 

Mixed selection of arancini

I've got to admit that I'm a big fan of Emma and Beverly's venue. They've taken a venerable Cork venue and produced a modern, yet relaxed wine bar. It's easily possible to spend hours sitting in the window, watching the River Lee flow past, while sipping on a fine wine. Their passion for all matters oenological (I just love that word) is evident in every part of the bar, from the large chalked wine lists right through to the regular wine tastings and classes. 

Since L'Atitude 51 opened in December, another wine bar has opened in the former premises of Arthur Mayne Pharmacy on Pembroke St. But there is a massive difference in attitude. Arthur Mayne does occupy a beautifully restored nostalgic premises, but it also chases the loud late night bar crowd. Walking into a crowd of under-dressed over-sexed late night partygoers is not something I find sits naturally with the enjoyment of a good class of wine. That's where L'Atitude 51 wins. So pull out your GPS and get yourself to (51.9, -8.47) and relax.

L'Atitude 51, Union Quay, Cork

Tel: +353 (0)21 239021

URL: L'Atitude 51 on Facebook

Twitter:  @Latitude_51

Crisp Fest 2012 (with loads of crisps)

My May bank holiday weekend plans had involved getting on a plane to the US on the Sunday. Exciting as this was, I was even more delighted to receive a phone call informing me that my work schedule would change. As a result, I got to spend the whole weekend at home, a truly unexpected pleasure.  

The main problem lay in the fact that I had turned down a whole raft of invitations and events, as I had planned to be stateside. But then a late saviour from an unlikely source appeared. The first Crisp Fest was scheduled to take place at The Bernard Shaw. As someone who loves crips, this was an absolute no-brainer.

This excellent festival is the brainchild of the folks behind the Irish A Blog About Crisps. The concept is simple - come to the pub, eat some crisp sandwiches and drink some drinks. But these clever guys took it a step further by securing loads of free crisps from the likes of King Crisps, Tayto, Boxerchips and Keogh's (forgive me if there were others I haven't listed). 

The first task of the evening was to secure drinks - himself took care of that by getting two whiskey sours for €10. The second task fell to me, namely to secure a crisp sandwich for himself. This task involved some tough decision making - would he prefer the classics of Tayto or King or perhaps strike out with an alternative crisp? Tradition won out and I secured a Tayto sandwich made from the softest, whitest sliced pan. For myself, I snagged my favourite flavour (Salt and Vinegar) in the form of Boxerchips Salty Malty.

Salty Malty Boxerchips and a classic Tayto sandwich

With drinks and the all important first sandwich onboard, we continued to work our way through the free samples. First up was a bag of new kids on the block Keogh's Shamrock and Sour Cream. This was followed by more Boxerchips, but this time taking the form of a mixed vegetable variety (parsnip, sweet potato and beetroot). At this stage, bags of Tayto Prawn Cocktail were being handed out to the crowd, so we also snagged some of those.

Keogh's Shamrock and Sour Cream

The Various Veggies from Boxerchips

The only downside to Crisp Fest 2012 was the freezing cold. Even with all the lovely crispy goodness on offer, we decided to head back indoors, but not before himself got one more crisp sandwich. At this point, we were offered some handmade badges to wear with pride (which I did).

My badge of pride - Crisp Fest 2012

I think the Blog About Crisps (@blogaboutcrisps) team are onto a great idea. If there is one thing that Irish people love as much as the pub, it is crisps. It's even better if the pub and crisps are combined. And it's even better again if crisp sandwiches are added to the mix. This event could be a fantastic showcase for newer crisp brands, as well as providing an opportunity to enjoy some old favourites. 

Well done to team behind Crisp Fest 2012. Here's to Crisp Fest 2013.

Vanilla Pod Eatery, Carrickmines, Dublin 18

Our new favourite Sunday activity is going for walks in the hills and forests of South Dublin and Wicklow. As well as getting out for fresh air and activity, a lot of the walks give stunning views of Dublin and Dublin Bay.  In less time than it takes to watch an episode of your favourite TV show, you can climb and look down on the city. Check out the Wicklow Walks website for listings of various walks, which are graded by time taken and degree of difficulty.

On a recent Sunday, we walked through the woods at Carrickgollogan, climbing to the top of the little summit for some great views. From there we continued round the circuit to the historic Ballycorus lead mines flue chimney. Obviously we were a bit peckish after our ramble, so we headed to the nearby Park in Carrickmines, where you can find the Vanilla Pod Eatery.

The Vanilla Pod Eatery is a bright open space with ample seating for hungry shoppers, office workers or local residents. The people behind the location have loads of experience including the Brown Thomas Café, and this is evident the minute you step into the VPE. The counter is bursting at the seams with loads of cakes and sweet goodies, while little pots of heather brighten every table. As it was Sunday, the brunch menu was available, boosted by several daily specials. 

He chose a hearty bacon and sausage sandwich (€7.50) served with a little pot of relish and an extra side of fries (€2.90). This was substantial, enhanced by the high quality of the sausages used. I chose one of the specials - egg, ham and cheese served with potato rosti (€8). This turned out to be a large disc of roughly mashed potato, topped with a thick generous slice of home cooked ham, egg and melted cheddar. It was extremely satisfying after an outdoor walk, but there was too much potato and I ended up leaving a decent portion on my plate. 

Bacon and sausage sandwich

Fried egg, ham and potato rosti

As we ate, we watched the busy staff work, we could see that their t-shirts are emblazoned with humourous statements, a theme which carries through to the coffee mugs. My only complaint about the VPE arose when we received our coffees. We ordered Americanos (€3), only to receive full-sized mugs full to the brim. I dislike the Irish habit of serving over-sized coffees so this was a negative point for me. 

The humorous mugs at the Vanilla Pod

There's a whole lot to like about the VPE. It's friendly and casual while the food is simple but good. Prices are pretty decent and there is a cheerfulness about the place and its staff that is quite welcoming. In short, it's a very decent casual eatery.

Vanilla Pod Eatery, The Park, Carrickmines, Dublin 18
Tel: +353 (0)1 294 5126
URL: www.thevanillapod.com

May Wine Tastings at L'Atitude 51, Cork

I'm very proud of being from Cork, and living away from Cork can never change how you feel about the place. I do prefer to live in Dublin, but there is something about Cork that will always say home. Therefore, I'm pleased to be able to bring news of some Cork wine events to my rebel readers.

Way back in February, I attended a Little Beauty wine tasting held at L'Atitude 51 on Union Quay. (Those of my generation will better remember this venue as the famous Lobby Bar.) This tasting was part of the Meet the Winemaker series, hosted by L'Atitude 51 in conjunction with various Irish wine importers and merchants. It turned out to be a great opportunity to taste some good wines, eat some good food and most importantly, hear the thoughts of the winemaker themselves. 

I recently received news from L'Atitude 51 of two new upcoming tastings for the month of May, which I'm delighted to share with you. As you might expect at L'Atitude 51, cheeses, charcuterie and light snacks will be served to match each wine. To book your places at these intimate events, just pick up the phone and call L'Atitude 51 at (021)2390219

Beaujolais Tasting - Thursday May 10th (19.00-20.30)

This first event, in association with Karwigs Wines, introduces Loic Teymond of Chateau de Chatelard, a Beaujolais producer, making wines in the Fleurie, Moulin a Vent and Brouilly appellations. Loic will guide you through a tasting of 4 of his wines and introduce you to this interesting  winemaking region in France. 

Beaulolais produces predominantly red wines from the Gamay grape using an unusual technique known as carbonic maceration. Nestled between Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, it often gets overshadowed by its more well-known neighbours; however, Beaujolais also produces some very good quality wines which are well worth investigating. No better opportunity now that we're coming into the summer (or what we hope will be a summer). Vines have been cultivated on the Chateau de Chatelard domain since it was created in the time of Charlemagne in the eighth century. This chateau is fanatical about quality, both in the farming and in the winemaking. 

Cost: €10 per person

Frankland River Tasting - Wednesday May 23rd (18.30-20.00)

The second event, in association with Wines Direct, will introduce Sandy and Rod Hallett of Alkoomi Wines, based in the Frankland River region of Western Australia. Sandy and Rod will give a presentation on the Frankland River area and will guide you through a tasting of 6 of their wines. 

Located in Western Australia’s Great Southern approximately 360 kilometres south-east of Perth, Frankland River is one of Australia’s fastest growing wine regions. Although viticulture began in the Frankland River region in 1969, it has only more recently become known as a significant producer of premium quality Western Australian wines. This is one of the  coolest wine producing regions in Western Australia.

L'Atitude 51, Union Quay, Cork

Tel: +353 (0)21 239021

URL: L'Atitude 51 on Facebook

Twitter:  @Latitude_51

Comerç, 24, Barcelona

Way back in February, I managed to put a week's holiday into my work calendar. This is actually a rare event for me, and it's gotten to the point where I have over two years worth of holidays available to me at the moment. It's just a matter of finding the time to enjoy them (easier said than done!).

With 4 nights booked in Barcelona, I was I was determined to do nothing but eat and drink too much cava. And I think we managed to do that quite successfully, including a blow-out meal at Michelin-starred restaurant Comerç, 24. Located in the El Born district, chef Carles Abellan produces menus based on miniature cuisine with touches of molecular gastronomy and a focus on local produce. In other words, a more refined form of tapas, which is not surprising given that Abellan previously worked under world famous chef Ferran Adrià.

We thought that we had partially adjusted for the late dining habits of Spaniards by booking dinner for 8.30 pm. However, this turned out to be the evening opening time and we were probably the second table seated for evening service.  The interior is dimly lit with a slightly industrial feel that is alleviated by yellow accents. Later I found out that the building was originally used for salting and the selling of pickled and preserved goods. It feels like an appropriate use of the location.

With glasses of cava in hand, we were left to the task of choosing between the two tasting menus - a 7 course Festival menu and a 12 course Grand Festival menu. Both options require putting yourself in the hands of the chef, with exceptions made only for dietary requirements. We opted for 12 courses and made ourselves comfortable.

Baskets of fragrant, large loaves of bread were bought to the table for our selection. Thick crusty slices were returned along with a selection of 4 Spanish olive oils and some salt for dipping. The oils ranged from light and green to rich and spicy, providing a wonderful showcase for Spanish oils. Time flew by, and before too long the first courses arrived at the table. 

• Cauliflower soup with smoked tea and nori, served cold
• Cauliflower with ginger and rice vinegar, 4 little florets served atop a stone
• Cold monkfish with black sesame and black garlic

This first grouping was quickly followed by

• Filo, parma, lemon and basil, where the flavours formed a gradient from one end to the other.  Utterly delicious, with the intense parmesan flavour reminding me of parmesan ravioli at Chapter One
• Pizza 24, sliced at the table, mixing together the unusual flavours of anchovy and strawberry

Cauliflower with ginger and rice vinegar

Monkfish with black garlic and black sesame

Pizza 24 with rocket, anchovies and strawberries

Filo tubes filled with parmesan, basil and lemon

Once all the early courses were cleared away, the fish and meat courses started to arrive. For the most part, these were served individually. The shrimp ceviche and oyster dishes were served together, as was the pizza sashimi, tuna tartar and razor clam yakisoba. Overall, there was a bias towards seafood, understandable in a town like Barcelona.

• Beach shrimp ceviche with wine peach, icy cool granita texture against juicy prawn
• Oyster with nasturtium leaf and flower, served atop dry ice The oyster and flower were to be rolled in the leaf and eaten in one go
• Cockles dashi, with delicate sea urchin, a taste and texture akin to foie gras
• Galicean barnacle, distinctly shaped barnacles served in an agar (?). This was my least favourite dish of the night, mainly due to the lack of flavour when compared with other dishes
• Peas with squid, a light delicate pea broth with grilled squid and spherified samphire that popped in the mouth
• Razor clams yakisoba, rich and tasty
• Pizza sashimi
• Tuna tartar, served in a pool of rich, unctuous egg yolk
• Cod with chard, chickpeas and miso
• Forest rabbit rice with "espardenyes", a rind of rich, meaty risotto
• Palamos prawn, salt-baked whole prawn. We received advice from the water to suck on the head to get all the tasty juices
• Beef sirloin with turnips, served perfectly pink

Beach shrimp ceviche with wine peach

Oyster on dry ice with nasturtium leaf and flower

Dashi with cockles and sea urchin

Peas with squid

Razor clams yakisoba

Pizza sashimi

Tuna tartar

Cod with chard and chickpeas

Palamos prawn

Beef with turnips

Following a break, our dessert plates started to arrive at the table, presenting us with array of dishes across the table. However, we stuck to the order in which they arrived. Food and wine pairings are available, and we decided to enjoy some dessert wines along with our sweets. Two glasses were poured, Itsamendi Uretzi 2008 (€4) and a 2008 Olivares (€5). Both were stunning, but the rich red Olivares took the poll position. (We even purchased a bottle the very next day at the famous food shop Colmado Quilez on Rambla Catalunya.)

• Mel i Mato, a Catalan cheese and honey dessert
• Lemon ice tea
• Requit Napolita
• Nougat with twin cigar. Rich and chocolately, these started to melt once we picked them up, so we quickly ate them in one go
• Apple and saffron, a great pairing
• Conguito C,24, chocolate shells pairing with olive oil and salt

Mel i Mato

Lemon ice tea

Apple and saffron

Nougat with twin cigar

Conguito C,24

We declined the offer of coffee, due to the late hour (well after 11pm at this stage), but a plate of delicious  petit fours were none the less were delivered to the table. 

• Oreo vanilla with black sesame
• Wild pine nuts with chocolate, dusted in rich dark cocoa
• Lingote gold, literally covered in gold paint
• Matcha tablet, white chocolate tablets, flavoured and coloured with green tea

Petit fours at Comerç, 24

Earlier, we had chosen a 2010 Quinta Apolonia Spanish albarino (€26) from the wine list. The sommelier had been most informative when helping us make the selection, clearly outlining the difference between several options. He received bonus marks for pointing out a third cheaper option which came from the same cellar as one of the more expensive options.  Our earlier cava was a 2007 Segura Viudas Brut (€6 per glass), a superb crisp and light cava. We actually ended up drinking several bottles of this cava over the course of our trip.

The Grand Festival menu cost €106 per head, and our total bill for the night came to approximately €300. However, this was probably the most adventurous meal I've enjoyed to date in a Michelin starred restaurant and the wine recommendations were spot on. Service was polite and polished while the dim lighting meant that we felt alone or private throughout the meal.

The manner in which Comerç, 24 mixes traditional Catalan and Spanish cooking with fashionable molecular gastronomy leads to a set of playful and creative dishes. For me, there were some dud notes, but the overall meal was truly memorable. The pace and delivery of the dishes was perfect and the whole night flew by in what felt like a matter of minutes. The strong emphasis on light, tasty seafood was magnificent, while the creative desserts and petit fours finished the meal with aplomb. Very memorable.

Comerç, 24, Carrer Comerç 24, 08003 Barcelona

Tel: +34 93 319 21 02

URL: http://comerc24.com.mialias.net/

The Bovine Menu at La Brasserie, Bon Appetit

Early in 2012, Malahide restaurant Bon Appetit launched a teaser campaign on both Twitter and their website hinting that a new offering, Bovine Bon Appetit, was on the way. The name and the cow logo definitely suggested a beefy slant, but it took a while before the full details emerged.

The Bovine concept turned out to be pretty simple - a diverse selection of beef cuts, sourced from the  most flavourful breeds of rare cattle. The menu, or "beef bible" lists detailed notes on breeds, types of cuts, aging, marbling, cooking temperatures and even tasting guidelines. Pride of place in this new lineup is a Grade 9 Wagyu steak, offered initially at cost price. All I can say is that it didn't take me long to book a table.

The BIL and his wife joined us for dinner in La Brasserie to celebrate a new job for one of us. We kicked off with some aperitifs in Le Bon Vin, the tapas and wine bar located on the ground floor of Bon Appetit. Once our table was ready, we were guided downstairs to La Brasserie, where we were presented with both La Brasserie and Bovine menus. There was no question that for the majority of us steak was going to be ordered. The only question left to be answered was which cut would be selected. The Popeseye (the Butcher's Secret), the wing rib (the Well Hung) or the ribeye (the Trendy Boy) all sounded tempting, while the Wagyu Sirloin (aka The Big Spender) ruled supreme.

In anticipation of a big meal, the two of us shared a starter of salt cod scotch egg (€9.50). A perfectly runny egg yolk was nestled inside a shell of cod and potato which had been fried until crispy golden. 

Scotch egg with cod

Just one member of our party of four had chosen to dine from the regular La Brasserie menu, choosing the sliders (€24.00). This comprised three perfectly constructed mini-burgers, made from beef, lamb and venison. These little guys must have tasted well, based on the comments of "best beef burger ever", followed by "best lamb burger ever" we heard issuing from that side of the table.

Slider burgers at La Brasserie

Both of us ladies had pushed the boat out by ordering the 8oz/225g Wagyu sirloin (€49.50). I'd never had the privilege of indulging in this carnivore delight before, so I grasped the opportunity to enjoy it at cost. I asked for the chef to cook it as he saw fit (my normal tastes run to blue or rare), and I would describe the end result as medium rare. Each steak on the Bovine menu comes with one accompanying sauce, so I went for my all-time favourite of Béarnaise, which I supplemented with an additional order of indulgent truffle butter.

The Wagyu sirloin is the single most expensive menu item I've ever ordered, so I really wanted it to live up to its promise. Well, I can tell you that it is wonderfully tender, with a subtle taste that is distinctly different from other steaks. The intense marbling that is typical of the breed produces a texture that is slightly reminiscent of foie gras. In short, it's flipping delicious. 

Himself ordered the 250g ribeye steak aged 60 days (€24.00) which was beautifully cooked with all the flavour that one expects from a juicy fatty ribeye. To round out the steaks, we also ordered some of the wonderful sounding side dishes. We might possibly have over-indulged with creamed spinach with Gruyère (€4.50), creamed sweetcorn (€3.50), chips (€3.95) and finally, broccoli Hollandaise (€3.50)

Wagyu sirloin steak with accompanying butters

Creamed sweetcorn side

At this point in the meal, I was defeated by beef, and I settled for a mint tea made with fresh leaves (€3.50). However, some of the others bravely soldiered on and ordered desserts. The star dessert was a vanilla cheesecake (€7.50) served very prettily in a glass jar with a crumble base and topped by fresh fruits and berries. Utterly simple but delicious. Special mention has to go to a 2007 Monbazillac De Haute Montlong dessert wine which was a deep concentrated gold, with more spice and less sweetness than a Sauternes.

Cheesecake at La Brasserie

This was my second time dining at Oliver Dunne's Malahide kingdom, and I have to say that it was another remarkable experience. Service was attentive and charming throughout the whole night. We were in the mood to celebrate (which our final bill reflected, ouch!) and we were delighted by the offer of a free round of after-dinner drinks. 

Bon Appetit continues to offer wonderful value to diners with Early Bird and special menus in both the main restaurant and La Brasserie. The Bovine menu does offer a great selection of prices, meaning that it's possible to enjoy some really good steak without breaking the bank. 

La Brasserie at Bon Appetit, St Jame's Terrace, Malahide, Co Dublin
Tel: +353 (0)1 845 0314
URL: www.bonappetit.ie
Twitter: @bonappbovine @bonappmalahide

Do your cakes have the Cake Factor?

In just a single day, I received news of two great events, both of which deserve to be supported. First up were a group of 3rd culinary students from DIT who are holding an Eat Only Irish night on May 2nd and will charge a mere €20 per head for an eight course tasting menu. More details here.

The second event comes courtesy of the Emerald Warriors (EWRFC), Ireland's gay rugby club, who will hold their 5th annual fundraising 'Tea Dance' and 'Bake Off'. Entertainment is guaranteed with Shirley Temple Bar, Veda Beaux Reves and Davina Devine hosting the event in The George Bar and Nightclub on Sunday, April 29th, between 3pm-6pm.

Shirley Temple Bar does her Tea Dance

These fabulous ladies will don their pinnies, twin sets and pearls in order to serve up a delicious selection of home baked treats on dainty dollies. Guests will also enjoy a variety of entertainment in the form of a Make & Do Corner, a ‘Bake Off’ and old style ceili dancing all washed down with lashings of tea.

As part of the event the club is calling on amateur bakers to don their aprons for the annual ‘Bake Off’ competition. Contestants are invited to offer up a tasty baked treat which will be served on the day and judged by The George’s drag queens in a Cake Factor meets X-Factor style competition. Contestants will have to present their cakes to the judging panel who will determine if their offerings are worthy of the cake table. A selection of prizes are up for grabs for the best and worst cakes.

A fun day out for all ages, tickets for the event are priced at €10 and are available directly from The George bar or they can be booked online be emailing The Emerald Warriors Club events@ewrfc.ie   All funds raised will go to supporting the Emerald Warriors Rugby Club.

For more information on the event visit www.thegeorge.ie or  www.ewrfc.ie 

Follow the action on Twitter @Thegeorgebar or @ewrfc 

Facebook www.facebook.com/TheGeorgeBar or www.facebook.com/groups/19289066680/